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  1. #1

    Need some input, pics inside, wave raider 1100 impellar and cylinders

    Well, here's the dealio. I'm in the process of rebuilding my 94's waveraider 1100 that I picked up for $200 with trailer. Of course, pistons are toast and definitely need to bore out the cylinders.
    My 1st question is, what's the minimum I should bore over? There's no real scores or real deep scratches, but there's no real crosshatch left and a a good chance out of round. Not looking to go BIG, but before I buy a piston kit, I need to know what you guys think based on the condition of the cylinders I should go over.


    2nd question, the condition of the impellar shaft? As per the yamaha manual, it specifically says ANY wear on shaft, REPLACE. Well, it's doesn't look that bad to me, but I don't know much about these PWC's and what's really acceptable.

    Any input would be much appreciated.

























  2. #2

  3. #3
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    1. Cylinders- Have them bored .5mm over and run pro-x pistons, rings, clips and replace your cage bearings.

    2. Emery cloth the shaft and your good to go...

    3. Use OEM gaskets on all parts.

    4. Rebuild the stock 38's with all Gen Mikuni parts...replace the Needle and seats also.

    5. Replace stock fuel filter with OEM

    6. Clean entire fuel system out ...lines, tanks etc...flush them good to ensure proper flow.

    7. Remote fuel pump rebuild kit...

    M

  4. #4
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    what MP says +1 .. along with using o/e seals on that pump(most yamis are double and triple lip seals, where some aftermarkets are not)..also replace your pump bushing,especially if that dark slop on your floor was in your forward pump housing..

    My thought's are to always check the bore first, BEFORE ordering parts..I have seen fellows order parts (thru cataloge houses), to then have the next size up needed after finish honeing (a proper machine shop will check your cylinders out and tell you the needed size,before any machine work is performed).. as long as your sure this is stock , a .25 or .50 mm over should streighten you right up...

  5. #5
    Now that's what I call INPUT.

    Thanks for the info! And yeah, she's getting a complete makeover. I've got a new crank coming and should be here this week. Just needed to get an idea where I need to be when boring over.

  6. #6
    Mpeavler's Avatar
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    Lastly ...FYI the stock OEM Yamaha Manual will instuct you to put the crank seals in backwards and there was an update that showed the correct way. Remember your feet on the castle should go outward....not inward

    M

  7. #7
    ^^^^Thanks!!!!

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