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  1. #1

    Question Stator Replacement

    Hey Guys,

    First time posting here but have been reading lots of post, there is a ton of good information here, thanks to all that share thier knowledge.

    I have 97 sl1050 that ran fine when i stored it for winter but last week it would not start when getting it ready for summer. It has no spark, I read through the posts here and found my stator is bad, 16+ ohms from black to brown wire, all others tested fine. Lame! I have the stator out of the ski and will order a new one tomorrow.

    And now for the question, any tip/tricks or things I should look for when reinstalling the new stator? One thing I did find was the 2 bolts on the flywheel for timing were hand tight, I hope it had nothing to do with the stator going bad?

    Any input is great, I wish the online manual was a little more detailed in some places but overall it is helpfull.

    Have a great day,

    Carl


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Carl Welcome to the Hulk.

    Are you sure that you had 10.6 volts min at the battery measured with a meter while cranking?

  3. #3
    Thanks beerdart,

    Yes on 10.6, the battery was holding strong at 11.08 VDC while cranking. Coils checked out good, CDI was putting out 7+ VDC when cranking, just the stator omh'd out bad.

    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Carl Welcome to the Hulk.

    Are you sure that you had 10.6 volts min at the battery measured with a meter while cranking?

  4. #4
    1FASTXC's Avatar
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    Do you know about the update kit which includes a stator and cdi? I don't know if you can get just a replacement stator for that ski or not anymore. The part number for the kit you need is 2873091. Just thought i'd give you a heads up incase you didn't know.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL1050 View Post
    ...I wish the online manual was a little more detailed in some places but overall it is helpful...
    Welcome to the Hulk

    There is a lot more info than just the service manuals.

    Click here for useful domestic engine info

    It is part of this web site.

  6. #6
    casey67's Avatar
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    [quote=SL1050;1106581] I read through the posts here and found my stator is bad, 16+ ohms from black to brown wire, all others tested fine.




    Welcome to green hulk Carl

    I just tested a couple 1050 stators and do not remember any stat for the brown wire (untested in the Polaris service manual)

    Where did you get that info from?
    Were the other readings correct?

  7. #7
    [quote=casey67;1107384]
    Quote Originally Posted by SL1050 View Post
    I read through the posts here and found my stator is bad, 16+ ohms from black to brown wire, all others tested fine.




    Welcome to green hulk Carl

    I just tested a couple 1050 stators and do not remember any stat for the brown wire (untested in the Polaris service manual)

    Where did you get that info from?
    Were the other readings correct?

    One of the troubleshooting docs I found had said to put the black meter led to the black wire from the stator and the red meter led to
    1. engine stud: 0-1 ohm
    2 purple wire: 1200 ohms
    3. gray wire: 88 ohms
    4. brown, red, green, blue, red/purple: open reading

    Those were the stator tests, it also had coil wire check both primary & secondary, incoming 12 vdc, cranking vdc and a few other things. I hope it was accurate information.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow How to ohm test Magneto stator coils and Hall Effect sensor on domestic engines

    Quote Originally Posted by SL1050 View Post
    ...found my stator is bad, 16+ ohms from black to brown wire, all others tested fine.
    ... I have the stator out of the ski and will order a new one tomorrow...
    Quote Originally Posted by SL1050 View Post
    ...I just tested a couple 1050 stators and do not remember any stat for the brown wire (untested in the Polaris service manual)...

    Where did you get that info from?
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    One of the troubleshooting docs I found had said to put the black meter led to the black wire from the stator and the red meter led to
    1. engine stud: 0-1 ohm
    2 purple wire: 1200 ohms
    3. gray wire: 88 ohms
    4. brown, red, green, blue, red/purple: open reading
    ...
    There are two different types of stators for the domestic engines with CDI.

    The original domestic ignition CDI+stator design was factory installed from 1996-1999.

    The Ignition System Update Kit, and all 2000-2004 domestic CDI ignitions use a different stator and CDI configuration.

    The wire connections, and the ohm testing, are different for the two types.

    Note that the parts from original and newer design ignition systems can not be mixed together. New CDI must be used with new stator, old CDI with old stator.

    For the two cylinder engines, the ignition coils are also different, and the new coil type must be used with new CDI, old coil type with old CDI.

    The Brown wire is the 8 volt positive power feed from the CDI to the Hall Effect sensor in the stator.

    ------------------------
    For domestic engines with the Updated Ignition installed, and 2000-2004 domestic CDI engines, the following applies.

    The Gray wire from the Hall Effect sensor is the negative side, and is grounded inside the electrical box, through the CDI.

    If the stator wires are all unplugged from the CDI and electrical box (as they should be for ohm testing), then there should be infinite or near infinite ohms (open connection) between all of the Hall Effect sensor wires and the engine block.
    Gray, Brown, Red, Blue, Green

    Per the attached diagram, the Hall Effect sensor can be tested by powering it with a 9 volt battery, and rotating the engine slowly to observe the resistance change as each flywheel trigger magnet passes the sensor.

    Stator coil ohm tests;
    Black to engine ground: less than 1.0 ohms, should be very close to 0.0 ohms
    Black to Purple: 5.5 ohms
    Yellow to Red/Purple: 0.75 ohms
    Yellow or Red/Purple to engine block: no connection/infinite


    ------------------------
    For domestic engines made before 2000, which do not
    have the Ignition Update Kit installed, the following applies.

    The Hall Effect sensor is grounded inside the stator on the negative side.

    On the older stators, the gray wire is a second exciter coil for the CDI, and is not part of the Hall Effect sensor.

    If the stator wires are all unplugged from the CDI and electrical box (as they should be for ohm testing), then there should be high kilo-ohms (or open connection) between these Hall Effect sensor wires and the engine block.
    Red, Blue, Green

    Per the attached diagram, the Hall Effect sensor can be tested by powering it with a 9 volt battery, and rotating the engine slowly to observe the resistance change as each flywheel trigger magnet passes the sensor.
    Note that the 9 volt battery negative must be connected to the stator Black wire, not gray.

    Since the Hall Effect sensor is internally grounded to the stator Black wire, the resistance measured to ground for the Brown wire will vary, depending on the ohm-meter being used. The Brown wire should not be shorted to ground.

    Stator coil ohm tests;
    Black to engine ground: less than 1.0 ohms, should be very close to 0.0 ohms
    Black to Purple: 1200 ohms
    Black to Gray: 88 or 140 ohms
    Yellow to Red/Purple: 0.75 ohms
    Yellow or Red/Purple to engine block: no connection/infinite
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Polaris domestic Hall Effect Trigger Coil testing 2000 Virage-SLX-Pro1200-Genesis.jpg 
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ID:	138332   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Polaris domestic CDI ignition (2000 SLX) 02b.jpg 
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Name:	Polaris domestic CDI ignition (1999 SLX) 02.jpg 
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  9. #9
    From all my testing then it appears my stator is good. The only test I have not tried yet is the 9 volt battery, that I will try to do today. Is there anything else that can cause a no spark condition on these engines? Both fuses in the electrical box are good, is there another fuse that I'm missing?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL1050 View Post
    From all my testing then it appears my stator is good. The only test I have not tried yet is the 9 volt battery, that I will try to do today.

    Is there anything else that can cause a no spark condition on these engines?

    Both fuses in the electrical box are good, is there another fuse that I'm missing?
    The fuses will not affect spark, but a bad fuse will shut down the MFD and/or bilge pump.

    Is your MFD working properly?
    If not, disconnect the MFD connector behind the MFD.

    Check that the Black/Yellow stop wire is not grounded/shorted. Unplug the CDI from Black//Yellow, and ohm test the stop switch (lanyard in and lanyard out).

    Put your voltmeter right on the Black and Red/Purple wires that feed the CDI, and again check voltage while cranking. Must be over 10.5 volts, and even better is 11.0 volts and higher.

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