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  1. #1

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    2002 Polaris Genesis I NO SPARK

    CAN ANYONE HELP?? I have a 2002 Gensis i that won't start, it has no spark. The stator came apart and I replaced it and it ran fine til I ran it out for gas, I cranked and cranked it til I found the fuel gage was reading wrong. Filled it with gas and it has not started since. I checked the resistance and cranking voltage of the stator and all ckecks good. I removed the spark plugs for max cranking rpm's. I found I have no voltage on any white and red wire until cranking and then it goes to 17 volts, not the 39-45 VDC the manuel states. Do I have a bad EMM?? does the EMM control the step up voltage??? Also all coil resistance were checked and no problem there.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    No spark and low injector voltage

    Normally, during cranking the injector voltage should be a little over 20 volts.

    I would first suspect the battery. When the engine is cranking, what is the battery voltage?
    Measured with a multi-meter, not the MFI display.

    While cranking, battery voltage should be 11.0 volts or better, if the battery is strong.

  3. #3

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    THANKS FOR THE REPLY, my cranking voltage is about 10.0 - 10.5 and I've tried another battery jumper from my other boat. Cranking voltage at the injectors is about 17 volts, but I get nothing at the ign. coils. Crank sensor checks good. Any thoughts ?????

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Brewer View Post
    ...my cranking voltage is about 10.0 - 10.5 and I've tried another battery jumper from my other boat.

    Cranking voltage at the injectors is about 17 volts, but I get nothing at the ign. coils. Crank sensor checks good...
    Battery voltage still sounds too low.

    You may well have something else causing trouble, but these Polaris engines do not tolerate a weak or marginal battery.

    A strong battery will deliver 11.0 volts or higher, while cranking. Aim for that.

    I would put a new battery in there. Otherwise, you might be chasing your tail.

  5. #5

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    REPLACED BATTERY, no change. I have no voltage to ign. coils and no spark at plugs. Any thoughts based on this infor.???

  6. #6
    drwebb drwebb69's Avatar
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    just a thought when i changed my motor i had to use a lot of heat to get the flywheel off, in doing so i think i melted the glue on the flywheel magnets and i had two magnets that were still attached but was causing my engine not to fire at first i thought it was the emm.but when i pulled the flywheel to check my crankshaft key i noticed a wierd noise when moving the flywheel back and forth.replaced it with another flywheel and it started fine.i was chassing electrical issues for over a summer before i figured it out by chance.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/albu...pictureid=3403

  7. #7

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    THANKS FOR THE REPLY, I didn't use any heat to remove my flywheel and I did replaced the stator, flywheel and key. The ski run great until I ran it out of gas but I did crank on it a while. Like I stated all the resistance and cranking voltage from the stator check good, resistance in the crank sensor also check good. Checked the tether switch and its ok. The only thing I see is I don't have the step-up voltage as stated in the shop manuel. It states I should have 39-45 VDC while cranking and I only see about 17. Can that be my problem???

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Brewer View Post
    T...I don't have the step-up voltage as stated in the shop manual.

    It states I should have 39-45 VDC while cranking and I only see about 17. Can that be my problem???
    17 volts is too low, but it won't be 40 volts either.

    While cranking, the injector voltage, with all injectors connected, should be over 20 volts.

    Just to eliminate it as a possibility, clean up the battery cables. Remove, clean to shiny metal, and re-tighten both ends of both battery cables.

    Pay special attention to the engine end of the negative battery cable. Engine must have clean bare metal where the cable goes, and the bolt must also be clean and tight.

    This will ensure that all the voltage from the battery is actually getting delivered to the engine.

    Once the engine has been fixed, don't forget to spread some protective dielectric grease over the connections to keep corrosion away.

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the reply. Battery cables are clean and tight, grounds are clean and tight. Fuel injectors are not the problem, no input signal on wires to ign. coils is the problem. Cranking voltage and cranking rpm's both good.

  10. #10

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    Polaris Virage TX 1200 2001 no spark

    Hello, i cant start my polaris virage tx 1200 2001 after winter. I have no ideas .

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