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  1. #1

    i went airborne and something broke in the driveline?

    Hi there fellow old schoolers. I am new to waverunner mechanics but got a 92 waverunner111 i picked up that was sitting for 1 to 2 years running. The engine ran great and really flew. Specs say 45mph but it felt like faster. Anyhow i came up to the crossroads of the ICW and the inlet and hit some chop. I got airborne and i guess the jet revved and something let loose. I was dead in the water. Motor still ran until it got hot enough to trip the sensor. My question is what is the most likely culprit and where do i start to look. I am assuming there is some type of tourque transfer going on at the shaft. Is there a coupler that lets go before much damage is done? Can anyone give me an idea of how many parts i should replace once i have it open? Such as impeller, impeller housing, bearings. I guess i start by dropping the plate on the bottom for inspection. I have the manual but would like some info on what usually occurs on an older ski of this model when this happens. I shut it down pretty quick so i dont think there is engine damage, mostly driveline. Just the impellar and housing look to cost 500$ alone. That blows because i only paid 250$ for the ski. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.


  2. #2
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    i'd bet your impellar is ok and also your housing... what may have gone was your impellar shaft or your coupler may have major munched it self...'broke apart'.. with out a jet pump the engine will overheat as the pump also supplys the water to cool the motor.. i'd look at the coupler first ,then if thats ok pull the pump assembly...

    to pull it you'll need to remove the plate , grate, 4 main mounting bolts and a few hoses along with the steering cable... you'll prob also have reverse, so that will have to be disconected like the steering... your splines at the input side may be sheared or the shaft may even be broken.. look this far and let us know and we can take you to the next steps.. post pics of your progress if possible..the fix will not be that expensive .... ebay is your friend!!!..

  3. #3

    Thank you big time WRpm500

    Great news that its not big $. How hard is it to get the coupler and/or the impeller shaft out? Should i replace bearings with it? Is there a more stout shaft replacement or should i stick with oem? On a side note, I cant believe how smooth and fast this old thing ran. I did put a new carb and replaced all the hoses on it (new oil pump and double clamped everything)but was really surprised at how reliable yamaha made this 650. It has around 132lbs compression and i think 135 is stock from the factory. Thanks again friends. That was the most fun I have had in a long time.

  4. #4
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    if its the coupler ..you remove the engine mount to hull bolts( and slide it forward enough to get to the couple / intermediate shaft asmb bolts(3).. if its the pump/impeller follow the above steps i posted earlyer ..take note those little bolts may be a fit to get off.. use hand tools only and lots of penetrating oil.. they are stainless and if broken best bet is to remove the pump and have them drilled out.. note: do not push up on the main pump bolts or plate bolts when removing.. the inserts are glued in with silicone from the factory and if you push up, the hex/flat's may disengage.. (turn em' slowly and steady) if you do 'strip' one loose you can reinsert em with rtv..(usually from the inside after removing the storage locker at the seat area..)

  5. #5

    w/rpm500 you were dead on!

    Too bad i didnt follow your instructions to the letter. You said look at the coupler first. I dropped the plates first and broke a bolt. After spending the whole day drilling and trying to get it out, assebeling back together I got a chance to look in the motor compartment. All that happend was the engine ripped off all 4 motor mounts and left the coupler intact. Not even a scratch on the coupler. I bought aftermarket (supposedly stonger) motor mounts.
    New question? the old ones had shims in the mm's. How do you know if the motor is aligned true? Should I use the shims with the aftermarkets? Do I just run the motor and see how the coupler looks? These old yamahas are amazing.

  6. #6
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    the mounts need shims generally to line up the motor squarely to the shaft.. the original shim placement may not put you back into alinement ..
    ( i have never been able to update mounts with out different shim stacks being needed )

    you can follow any of the manuals that you find here on line ( see the 'how to' stickys) for the set up as most all yami's use the same guidelines to set the motor properly in line..

    I check mine with a mirror and a light to make sure the gap is even and square ( i set all my 'AIR' gaps at approx 1/8 inch...). I then grab the rear half of the coupler and try to feel 'float' and then even resistance to twist from the front half.. I feel if there is even 'float' this is a good way to check for binding.. (if your not square and true this will feel 'off', more one way, than the other..)

  7. #7
    Wow, this really sounds like a drag to setup. Your saying you have to check the coupler with a feeler gauge. That means bolting the thing in. Check it, unbolt it, raise the motor, add a shim, bolt it back in, check it again, unbolt it, raise the motor, add a shim. Just shoot me.

  8. #8
    The thing is the motor. not the coupler

  9. #9
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    you have a rubber insulator that couples the engine and the intermediate shafts .. this is what needs to be alined via the shim stacks on the mounts... ok first bolt in your mounts on the ski hull.. then drop in your motor with out shims... line up the motor coupler enough to get it to engage properly.. there ideally will be a 1/8 gap between the two aluminum pieces all the way around the couplers (aluminum half's)it should be parallel and square .. (think 3 quarters stacked perfectly parrallel and square ,the center quarter being the rubber puck,with a needed 1/8 inch floating air gap between )... this is what the shims help you do.. they can raise the motor via the same size stack on all the bolts evenly or can pitch it up in back by stacking shims on the back mounts or down in back via shims on the front bolts... you wont know till you start actually intalling the pieces... now,once the motor is in place, loosley install the 4 main bolts leaving about 1/2 inch for adjustments.. lift and lower the engine with your shims until the coupler lines up like that quarter stack... eye ball the coupler when done and idealy get that feel and 1/8 space i mentioned in the post earlyer...

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