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  1. #1
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Ok i kinda have spark now !!! Please look

    Ok first thing I believe the ignition coil I got from edit is bad. Only one side will ohm out to the polaris specs.

    And the I guess good news is it tries to fire when I let off of the start button and push it again. It meters voltage to 1 cylinder for a split second when I release the start button. So if I push it repeatedly it will try to fire but wont start I guess due to only one side of the coil trying to fire.

    Any ideas? Bad start button maybee?

    And me being stupid I sold a good ignition coil that came off the machine to begin with to buy the rectifier that wasnt bad. So I need an ignition coil too I guess.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    ...it tries to fire when I let off of the start button and push it again.

    It meters voltage to 1 cylinder for a split second when I release the start button.

    So if I push it repeatedly it will try to fire but wont start...
    Check the battery voltage while cranking.

    That is a classic symptom of a weak battery --> Spark just when you release the start button.

    Make sure you have well over 10.6 volts while cranking the engine. Any less, and you will not have spark while cranking.

  3. #3
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Check the battery voltage while cranking.

    That is a classic symptom of a weak battery --> Spark just when you release the start button.

    Make sure you have well over 10.6 volts while cranking the engine. Any less, and you will not have spark while cranking.
    I have 11.5 while cranking. Its a brand new battery and I charged it again on sat before I put it back in. Before I recharged it it was 10.9 cranking and after the charge it was 11.5

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What happened with these checks?

    Let's review what you have, what you have tested, what parts have been swapped in.

  5. #5
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What happened with these checks?

    Let's review what you have, what you have tested, what parts have been swapped in.
    Ok I now know the ignition coil is ok. It was the wires. But the boots im not sure about. Everything ohms out fine until I put the boots on, then I get nothing. Is that normal. I did cut them back 1/4". So I took the boots off and put the wires on the plugs with vise grips and still nothing. But now both sides of the coil get power when I release the start button since I fixed the wires. So here we go

    I swapped out the ignition coil even though the old one was good. Sold the old one.

    I swapped out the switch rectifier #4060110 or LR52 Modula. I did this because originally the battery was drawn down due to the bilge pump running without the lanyard in. Thats what started this whole ordeal. Everything was real hot because it was on a battery tender and the bilge pump was drawing more juice then the tender could replace.

    I tested the stator and trigger wires per the polaris service manual and they checked out perfect. I used a meter with a dva to ensure an accurate reading. Did the 9v battery test and everything.

    I checked the kill switch and that seems to be ok. I disconnected it and also ohmed it out.

    Brand new battery. Fully charged 11.5V cranking

    All of the grounds seem ok. No corrosion or loose connections.

    I checked the reset switch. Theres power going through that.

    I moved the red/purple going to the CDI to the orange wires per the polaris service bulletin. No difference so I put it back.

    Theres 140+ volts going to the ignition coil while cranking. But only voltage going to the plugs when I let off the start button and then only for a split second. It will try to fire if I repeatedly push the start button but never actually starts. And it backfired and scared the hell out of me so we wont be doing that anymore.

    New plugs

    I think thats about it... Im pretty sure I did every test in the service manual and then some.

    What else can I do? CDI?

  6. #6
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What happened with these checks?
    The org wire has 11.5V while cranking

    And the red/purple is the same 11.5V if I disconnect it from the other red/purples. They all have constant power due to them being tied into the reset breaker.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    ...the boots im not sure about. Everything ohms out fine until I put the boots on, then I get nothing. Is that normal.

    I did cut them back 1/4".

    So I took the boots off and put the wires on the plugs with vise grips and still nothing...
    Each pre-2000 domestic spark plug cap is supposed to be about 5,000 ohms (5 K-ohms).

    The bare plug wire end to ground should measure about 1200-1600 ohms.

    So the resistance from inside each spark plug cap (attached to the plug wire) to the engine ground should be about 5500-7000 ohms.

    On an original pre-2000 twin ignition system (not updated), each of the two ignition coils is connected to ground through the coil black wires. The black wires must be connected to ground.

    It sounds like either your spark plug caps are bad, or the wire is not reaching deeply enough into the cap to make solid contact.

    Are these screw on caps, that thread into the end of the plug wire with a screw style tip inside the cap?

    The only part of a spark plug wire that conducts electricity is the core in the center. It is a fragile core, and the end must be cleanly cut with a sharp blade, not crushed. Then the point inside the plug cap must reach into the center of the plug wire as the cap is pushed onto the wire.

    If the conductive center of the plug wire is not pierced by the little tip inside the cap, you will not have a connection, and spark will be defeated.

  8. #8
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Each pre-2000 domestic spark plug cap is supposed to be about 5,000 ohms (5 K-ohms).

    The bare plug wire end to ground should measure about 1200-1600 ohms.

    So the resistance from inside each spark plug cap (attached to the plug wire) to the engine ground should be about 5500-7000 ohms.

    On an original pre-2000 twin ignition system (not updated), each of the two ignition coils is connected to ground through the coil black wires. The black wires must be connected to ground.

    It sounds like either your spark plug caps are bad, or the wire is not reaching deeply enough into the cap to make solid contact.

    Are these screw on caps, that thread into the end of the plug wire with a screw style tip inside the cap?

    The only part of a spark plug wire that conducts electricity is the core in the center. It is a fragile core, and the end must be cleanly cut with a sharp blade, not crushed. Then the point inside the plug cap must reach into the center of the plug wire as the cap is pushed onto the wire.

    If the conductive center of the plug wire is not pierced by the little tip inside the cap, you will not have a connection, and spark will be defeated.
    I have over 1300ohms with the caps removed. There not screw on they just push in. I push the wires all the way in and it feels like it makes a connection but when I probe the boot I get nothing.

    What about when I took the boots off and connected the wires directly to the plugs? Shouldnt that have worked?

    When im getting voltage when I release the start button I have one plug wire on and the other boot removed and connected to the meter.

    So are you saying that if I dont have a good connection between both plug wires to the boots and both boots to the plugs I wont get spark? Is that why they only show voltage when the button is released because there is no connection to the plug?

    Still curious about when I connected the wires directly to the plugs. I know there was connection that time.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    ...When im getting voltage when I release the start button I have one plug wire on and the other boot removed and connected to the meter.
    That is very hard on the meter. I don't know what kind of meter you have, but most consumer meters have a maximum voltage rating of 2,000 volts.

    When your ignition is working, it will deliver well in excess of ten thousand volts.


    So are you saying that if I don't have a good connection between both plug wires to the boots and both boots to the plugs I wont get spark?
    That is essentially correct.

    ...Still curious about when I connected the wires directly to the plugs. I know there was connection that time.
    Right now, I am thinking the CDI really is bad, and the spark plug caps are also a problem, but not the core problem.

    Since you have the original 1996 ignition system, my advice is to install the ignition update kit. You will have a new CDI, new stator, new ignition coil, and new plug wires.

    Virtually guaranteed to solve your problem, since every piece of the ignition system will be new.

    Hurricane update kit 2873022 is $290 from www.partspitstop.com, or $27 from Babbitts

  10. #10
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Alright. Now is it possible for me to put an original non updated CDI in for now and be ok? I am gonna do the update kit but I cant swing it for a couple of months. Id like to get out and ride as soon as possible if I can. My plans are to get another ski and an update kit for this one because I have a double trailer.

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