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  1. #1
    tweeder's Avatar
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    excessive vibrations/ no go with throttle

    I'm not sure what happened this weekend at the lake. I was playin and jumpin in the waves then I couldn't get the ski to move past an idle. It moves at an idle but as soon as I give it gas it sounds like its cavitating and vibtares realy bad like its over spinning the impeler. I pulled it half on/off the trailer and out of the water and I couldn't see any damage. Is there a sheer pin or somethin on the driveshaft?


  2. #2

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    I bet its the coupler. it screws onto the crankshaft and is what the drive shaft slides into.

    Pull the pump and remove the driveshaft/impellor. and check out the splines on the driveshaft, and the splines on the coupler. You may need new driveshaft and coupler if the happen to be chewed up.

    Their is a plastic cover that is held in place over the coupler right behind the engine. remove the hose clamp on it, and pull the cover off and take a peek at the coupler first.

    If this is on the 95 ski, it should have a solid coupler. I would still start with inspecting the pump/driveshaft.

  3. #3

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    The rubber bumper plugs in both ends of the drive shaft are important. Make sure you keep up with them when you pull the shaft from the coupler and the impellor.

  4. #4
    tweeder's Avatar
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    Well since i'm gonna have to that the whole end off as I want to put in the wedges as well, what all should I look for and replace? I read somewhere about through the hull bearings.

  5. #5
    tweeder's Avatar
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    Any input on what all I should change while i'm in there?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tweeder View Post
    Any input on what all I should change while i'm in there?
    Have a look here;
    Check for water leaks at the through-hull bearing seals

    Jet Pump Maintenance and Service

    It seems most guys don't touch the impeller stator (stub shaft) seals until the bearings fail, or seem like they are about to fail.

    None of the seals or bearings are expensive, and replacing them before they fail completely can save you aggravation and expense.

    The only special tool you need is the impeller removal tool, and there are ways around that too. The tool is the easiest way, of course.

    Make sure the O-ring for the stator tail cone is in good shape before you put it back together.

  7. #7
    tweeder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Have a look here;
    Check for water leaks at the through-hull bearing seals

    Jet Pump Maintenance and Service

    It seems most guys don't touch the impeller stator (stub shaft) seals until the bearings fail, or seem like they are about to fail.

    None of the seals or bearings are expensive, and replacing them before they fail completely can save you aggravation and expense.

    The only special tool you need is the impeller removal tool, and there are ways around that too. The tool is the easiest way, of course.

    Make sure the O-ring for the stator tail cone is in good shape before you put it back together.
    Yeah I figured since i'm there I might as well/

  8. #8
    tweeder's Avatar
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    Well I got the pump off no problem. There was a small piece of wood about 3" long and a couple inches wide that was wedged in the outside of the impeller. That and when I took out the driveshaft from the impeller the o'ring was broken. What size is the o-ring(something special?), can I go down to the local parts store and find one that fits? Can I use vasaline to seal around all o-rings includind the pump to hull? The impeller wear ring distance looks good maybey a couple mm max but the impeller looks of wear but I wanna change the pitch anywho. Inside the bearing housing looks really bad with alot of the first inch or so really worn(sandblasted) woth lots of chunks missing so I think i'll replace it if I can find one on ebay or if someone here has one cheap.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tweeder View Post
    Well I got the pump off no problem.

    There was a small piece of wood about 3" long and a couple inches wide that was wedged in the outside of the impeller.
    That will certainly cause lots of vibration and no thrust.

    That and when I took out the driveshaft from the impeller the o'ring was broken. What size is the o-ring(something special?), can I go down to the local parts store and find one that fits?
    I am not sure what the actual size of that O-ring is, but I don't think they very expensive from Polaris.

    Can I use Vaseline to seal around all o-rings including the pump to hull?
    What do you mean by 'pump to hull'?
    Did you remove the entire pump including the base (held on with nuts), or just undo the four long bolts and the round jet pump sections?


    Don't use Vaseline for anything.
    Where appropriate, use a good quality waterproof marine bearing grease.


    The impeller wear ring distance looks good maybe a couple mm max but the impeller looks of wear but I wanna change the pitch anyhow.
    Maximum spec for impeller blade clearance is 0.020", which is about 0.5 mm

    Normal clearance is under 0.010"
    You may need to replace the wear ring that surrounds the impeller, if it is worn or damaged.


    Inside the bearing housing looks really bad with a lot of the first inch or so really worn (sandblasted) with lots of chunks missing so I think i'll replace it if I can find one on ebay or if someone here has one cheap.
    What bearing housing are you talking about?

    The through-hull bearing, or the jet pump impeller/stator bearings?
    Both should be available used, and new.

    Click here for parts sources.

    For used parts, start with John Zigler, and Beach_Blonde.

  10. #10
    tweeder's Avatar
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    I took the whole shebang off right from the transom, bothe 4 long and short. We don't have a polaris watercraft dealer here the closest is about 6 hours away I was hoping to get the o-ring sooner. The bearing housing i'm talking about is the the last section with the cone before the exit nozel and reverse gate(it has twisted fins in it) I got the terminology of the bearing housing from the manual.

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