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  1. #1

    00' Pro 1200... Won't Crank?!?!?!

    I've had this ski for about a year now, has about 60hours... idk because the MFD stopped working... So here's my problem, I took the ski out yesterday, ran it for a few hours, stopping now and then to clear the seaweed from the intake, and for some reason it would hit a rev limiter around 4K intermittently, I would slow down, idle for a sec, and then it would run fine for a while, after i hopped back on it after the last time I stopped to clean out the seaweed... it would not start back up... just crank and crank... so I got towed in for a good 30min or so... took the CDI out and inspected everything, I found a crimp that didn't seem to be done very good, so I redid it... and BOOM she started right up... now then.. you may say cool you got it running why are you still asking about this damn ski... well... to make sure it wasn't gonna leave me stranded again, I took it back out for another hour or so... ran perfect the whole time... I get back and drive it onto my drydock and BOOM... the STOP button wont work... i pull the lanyard... nothin... still running... so i choked her to death... and now it won't even crank... Not getting power at all for some damn reason LOL I've already gone back through the CDI box and couldn't find anything wrong, but I also don't know exactly what I'm looking for lol I'm no ski mechanic, but put an 800HP Supra in front of me and I'll show you everything you need to know!!!! haha

    Well any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Regards,
    Justin


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Click below for the service manual, and other useful info.

    It sounds like there is something basic that isn't right with the electrical system.

    I would start by removing, cleaning, and checking both ends of both battery cables.

    Pay particular attention to the engine end of the negative cable. Bolt and engine metal must be clean. Confirm that there is zero ohms between the battery end of the negative cable and the engine block itself (cylinder head would be a good spot to put the meter probe).

    If still no go, then open the electrical box, and confirm ohms are less than 1.0 ohms from the black wire terminals to battery negative. Same for Red/Purple to battery positive post.

    After that, work through the diagnostics in the service manual.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Click below for the service manual, and other useful info.

    It sounds like there is something basic that isn't right with the electrical system.

    I would start by removing, cleaning, and checking both ends of both battery cables.

    Pay particular attention to the engine end of the negative cable. Bolt and engine metal must be clean. Confirm that there is zero ohms between the battery end of the negative cable and the engine block itself (cylinder head would be a good spot to put the meter probe).

    If still no go, then open the electrical box, and confirm ohms are less than 1.0 ohms from the black wire terminals to battery negative. Same for Red/Purple to battery positive post.

    After that, work through the diagnostics in the service manual.
    The battery cables are where I started LOL they were fine but I cleaned them up and Di-El'd them anyways while in there, still nothing. I'm about to check the ohms, but while I'm up here, what are the possibilities that the start/stop switch itself has gone bad? And are there any fuses that I'm not seeing? I've found 3, all inside the CDI box... Also, the reset button on the CDI box, shouldn't it stick out? because mine seems to be pushed in and not coming back out...?? Maybe I need to replace that 15A reset switch?

    Regards,
    Justin

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin1320 View Post
    ...I'm about to check the ohms, but while I'm up here, what are the possibilities that the start/stop switch itself has gone bad?

    And are there any fuses that I'm not seeing? I've found 3, all inside the CDI box... A

    lso, the reset button on the CDI box, shouldn't it stick out? because mine seems to be pushed in and not coming back out...?? Maybe I need to replace that 15A reset switch?

    Regards,
    Justin
    Reset switch is actually a circuit breaker. It normally does not stick out. It only pops out if there is an overload in the electrical system.

    The ohms check for Red/Purple to battery positive (disconnect the other battery cable) will confirm the Reset breaker is good.

    There are no other fuses.

    The Start switch is one of the checks in the service manual, and there is a wiring diagram in the back of the manual.

    On most Polaris models, a bad Stop switch will not prevent the engine from cranking.

    If you sort the two heavy terminals on the start solenoid (relay) with pliers, the starter motor should engage and crank the engine. If it does not, check for bad connections in the heavy cable to the stater motor.

    The starter motor itself is buried down on the left front of the engine, under the exhaust system.

  5. #5

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    Sounds like the stator is not grounding with the stop switch. Maybe you have a problem with the wiring from the stator. may have been worn and grounding partially, and now finally broke???

  6. #6
    Thanks for the additional ideas, I'm about to test the solenoid because the top batt cable was getting 12v but not the bottom, but the yellow/black+black plug to it was getting 12v when I hit the start button... so I think that must have something to do with the lack of starting... but seems unrelated to the stop button not working to begin with... hmmm...

  7. #7

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    I missed the part of it not even cranking right now.........See if i can think up some more stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin1320 View Post
    Thanks for the additional ideas, I'm about to test the solenoid because the top batt cable was getting 12v but not the bottom, but the yellow/black+black plug to it was getting 12v when I hit the start button... so I think that must have something to do with the lack of starting... but seems unrelated to the stop button not working to begin with... hmmm...
    Yeah, if you have 12v on the battery side, and not on the starter side....and are getting 12v on the Y/B when pushing the start button, the solenoid sounds bad.

    Try tapping it and see if comes around, if that doesnt work, use a big screw driver and jump the two terminals (but be careful not to contact anything else, and be prepared for a little sparking) If the ski cranks or starts from jumping the terminal, replace the solenoid.

  9. #9
    I just bench tested the solenoid and it's clicking... so I'm gonna throw it back in and see what happens, I'll keep you guys posted...

    Thanks again!

  10. #10
    ok... so here's where I am... I can jump the ski using pliers on the solenoid, but I find it weird that it's not working since I took it out and when I bench tested it, it clearly made a loud click, as if it were working, when I hit the start button it does not click, nothing happens at all... But here's where I'm getting lost a bit, with the killswitch off, the black wire of the two going to the solenoid, has 3.5v while the yellow/black has .24v... however with the killswitch in, black gets 12v and yellow/black gets .13v but gets a full 12V when i hit the start button... So in theory... if the solenoid clicked on the bench, and the wires going to it are supplying proper voltage, I don't understand why it's not working... under the conditions I feel that buying a replacement solenoid may be a waste of money, just to end up throwing it in and having the same problem...

    What do you guys think about this?

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