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  1. #1

    hard starts on 1995 polaris 750 slt

    Hi guys. First, thanks for all the useful information on this site. It's really helped alot! I've been very frustrated with this polaris. It's been a maintenance nightmare. I've read some info about some of the polaris watercraft having problems with warm starts due to problems with the cdi. I'm wondering if this is applicable to my 750, and if this is why it's starting so hard. If this is the case, how is the cdi problem fixed? I have already adjusted popoff press., and installed the triple outlet pump. This seemed to help, but I'll still have trouble starting the engine occasionally. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    The warm-restart problem affects the red-domestic engines, not the blue Fuji engines.

    Are you sure the battery is really, really healthy?
    Polaris PWC do not like a weak battery, and can give you fits if you think the battery is good enough, but it actually is not.

    If the battery itself is good, then next thing to do is focus on the electrical connections. Remove and clean both ends of both battery cables, and both terminals on the start solenoid.

    Make sure there is no corrosion and no moisture inside the electrical box.

    Next thing is to check the stop switch, and the start switch.

    If you can get it to fail in a predictable manner, that will help you diagnose the problem.

    Have a look here for more good info, and especially here.

  3. #3
    Well...... the battery is about 2 yrs old, and the volt meter shows about 12.4 volts. Probably getting a little weak...., however what puzzles me is that when I go out in the garage and hit the start button, it fires up instantly. Then when I take it out on the water and run it hard for a few minutes, then shut it down, sometimes I'll have to crank, and crank and crank...., is this typical of a battery on the way out? Thanks for the help.

  4. #4
    One other thing while I'm thinkin about it.... When I checked the popoff, it was high, about 19 pounds. I went to the polaris dealer and they had the 65 gram popoff springs for eight bucks apiece!!! 8 bucks for a little spring that looks like it goes into a ball point pen!!! You gotta be kidding me!! When I squawked, the polaris technician told me I could clip down the ends of the existing springs to lower the spring rate. This is what I did. The machine ran better at 15 pounds, but still had a bog in the midrange. So I then lowered it to 10. I figured since I'm at a high elevation, 4500 feet, a popoff pressure in the low end would make the machine run better. Is clipping the ends of the popoff springs a viable substitue for purchasing the new ones, or should I go and get the 65 gram polaris springs. Just wondering if this could be part of the problem. Thanks for your help.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    The problem with cutting the springs is that you can't go back if you go too far. As far as starting in the garage, there is no load on the engine and should start easier. On the water, there is pressure and the engine is warmed up so it will require more fuel to start. How does the wash look on your pistons? I suspect it is running a bit lean.

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    Welcome to the Hulk Zakatak.

    You may want to use a primer set up instead of the choke. It makes starting much easier.

    You can install a primer buld and keep the choke, or remove the choke plates and install a primer plunger with fittings for around $35 a set.

  7. #7
    o.k. starting to make some progress... My problem is ignition, not fuel delivery. My no start situation only occurs after I have shut the machine down with the kill switch. After shut down, only occasionally, there will not be any spark. Then after trying a few more times, suddenly I have spark and the engine fires right up. I dissassembled the kill switch, and everything is very clean. Next, I opened the electrical box, and found.... one black wire going to ground which wasn't connected very well, also found a red/purple wire with a nick in the insulation. I fixed both of these, and am keeping my fingers crossed that this will solve my problem. However, if any of you guys have some more insight as to something else this could possibly be, I would love to know. thanks for the help.

  8. #8
    All right!! Just replaced the stator assembly, and the ski is starting up every time!! Apparently, the previous owner must have submerged this machine due to all the corrosion on the stator assembly. Also, after talking to a mechanic, I was informed that typically, if an electrical component is going to fail, it is more likely to fail as it gets hot, which explains why this machine would start up cold, then sometimes not start after it had been run for a few minutes. If you're having ignition problems, you may want to keep this in mind.... especially if the problem is intermitent, like mine was. Again, thanks for the helpful info! I never would have figured this thing out without help from you guys!!!

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    Great, now get out and ride....

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