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  1. #1

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    2000 XP Problems

    Ok let's start at the beggining on this one. I took the ski out a few weeks ago and forgot to put the plugs in the rear . Needless to say the ski sank overnight, in really shallow water but enough to cover the motor. I recovered it put it on the trailer and proceeded to crank the motor over and remove the water. After quite a long time I finally got it to run. Now it had a little problem starting the rest of the day, It usually starts easy but it took a little effort after the sinking. We rode it for several hours that day. I just put a brand new battery in today and tried to start. It cranked over slower than normal pretty slow in fact. When it does start it runs for a second then quits. When it stayed running for longer I tried to rev it up and get it going, but it made some loud kind of clanking noises from the engine and when I let off the gas it very quickly decelrated and died. I'm thinking that there is some semi seizure issues in eighther the crank or the cylinders. What do you guys think? I really don't want to pull the motor, but a lesson learned on the plugs. Any other ideas to check before I start the pull and search????? Thanks in advance!!!!


  2. #2

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    water in the electric box, and prob the VTS box too, empty both. could have water in the mag cover, and in the FUEL TANK. must drop carbs and clean, while you have them apart change the little internal filters


    TLR

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the input TLR, but it is showing several signs of unusually high resistance in the motor, first was the really slow cranking speed, next was the deceleration of the motor. Usually when I let off the gas it revs down at a slower speed, but this time it reved down very quickly so fast it was easily noticeable. Does anyone know what kind of pressure it should take to rotate the motor without the plugs. What I would like to try is to take the prop off and turn the motor over via the drive shaft with a beam style torque wrench so I can see how many foot pounds it takes to rotate the motor, then possibly compare it to another identicle ski. I have an 03 XPDI do you guys think this would give me any worth while info?

  4. #4
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    No 951 that has ever been hydrolocked lasted more than 10 hours before it threw a rod threw the case. That said, I'd do a new crank and c/b shaft bearing rebuild before you trash your cases.

    And also do what TLR instructed.

  5. #5

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    yeah after starting it and hearing thos noises I knew it was going to be extensive, it looks like previous owner had an SBT put in so I will go ahead and start the pull apart. Since this XP has a two piece drive line do you still need to do the motor alignment when you pull one?

  6. #6
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    No 951 that has ever been hydrolocked lasted more than 10 hours before it threw a rod threw the case. That said, I'd do a new crank and c/b shaft bearing rebuild before you trash your cases.

    And also do what TLR instructed.
    +1

    and +1 to TLR

    A 951 that clanks or squeals while spinning is DONE.

    My .02, get an OE crank and re-sleave that cylinder so you can use OE pistons. Get a new head too. SBT cuts the squish band back like a Democrat working on the military budget. They may push 140psi on a comp test but they do not have the oomph they are supposed to.

  7. #7
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by explude View Post
    but it is showing several signs of unusually high resistance in the motor, first was the really slow cranking speed, next was the deceleration of the motor. Usually when I let off the gas it revs down at a slower speed, but this time it reved down very quickly so fast it was easily noticeable.

    Does anyone know what kind of pressure it should take to rotate the motor without the plugs. .
    Your main bearings are slowly tearing themselves apart and the small end's will eventually lock and seize the motor or bend a rod and then punch a hole through the cases.


    If the prop and pump are ok it should take very little effort , remove the driveshaft cover at the rear off the engine and it should turn over by hand.

    These big twin engines are prone to holding moisture in the crank bearings when they are submerged so if you happen to sink it again get it going asap and run it for at least an hour in the water under load, this gets the incoming air drying the bearings out and the heat dissipates any remaining moisture . We regularly sink these engines in surf and as long as you run it for an hour after it will have no lasting damage. 1 ski has been sunk at least a 6 times last summer with only salt water intrusion but get any sand mixed in with the water and you will have to rebuild it completely.

  8. #8

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    You know I thought it would be ok since we rode it so long after the fact. But we were having a lot of battery problems so it may not have got a full hour of load all at once. But it makes bad noises and I am going to pull the motor to save it from itself. Where can I get some good heads? also does SBT bore the cylinders over oem? It keeps up with my 03 XPDI no problem so it has good power I just want to get it going again. Anyone know about the engine alignment on these XP's. The 03 has a lot more foam in the hull so it kept afloat enough to avoid ingestion. Wish the 2000 had the same!!!

  9. #9
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    SBT usually bores to 1mm (fourth over).

  10. #10

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    Ok I'm sure this has come up a million times how do you get to the bottom nut on the bottom of the pipe? The three allens cake, the nut, impossible let me know!!!!

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