Thread: Water in the HULL?!
06-27-2009, 11:20 PM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
Water in the HULL?!
Ridding my 2002 GTi I found that it was ridding low and not very fast. I took off the seat and saw that the bolts on the exhaust manifold had rattled loose and water was pouring in.
1) When this happened, the engine died and it was hard to start. Could this be a separate issue or could too much water in the hull kill your engine?
2) Would water in the hull cause any other damage (it was about 4 inches of water) such as ruin grease in fittings or boots?
06-28-2009, 12:20 AM #2
It probably died due to lack of oxygen with all that exhaust in the hull.
That is not much water for a hull that big but it would not hurt to check things out.
You need to replace the pipe mount bushing. It is likely the cause. When those bushings wear out they let the pipe move too much and they work the bolts loose and or break them.
06-28-2009, 12:28 AM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
I guess I should be more specific. There is a manifold that attaches straight to the engine that leads up to the exhaust pipe. It was the 4 bolts that came loose conecting the pipe to the manifold.
I thought about just putting some locktight on the bolts. Good Idea?
Also, it seemed to smoke a lot when I did get it to run (however rough it was), could that also be from the exhaust that was staying in the hull. Maybe the engine was running off of bad air and smoking?
I'm just worried I have another problem with my injection
06-28-2009, 07:36 AM #4
I had the same thing happen on a GS. It was running great and suddenly it would not accelerate and would die. Pulled the seat off and whoosh, like somebody rubbed a lamp. If none of the bolts or the stud broke you are lucky.
The smoke, well, get the known problem fixed before worrying about that. Your guess is probably right on the increased smoke. That said, a loose pipe should not affect the oil injection and neither would the oil injection affect the pipe.
BTW, on that old GS, the pipe mount bushing has come apart. This let the pipe move more than normal and do the damage. The stud broke on ours so I had to pull the manifold and have it fixed.
The bushing is not an expensive part. Replace it and of course, use Loctite Blue on the stud/bolts. Keep in mind, SD uses this yellow stuff on the OE 947 pipe flange bolts. Bad stuff, hard to break loose and clean out. I guarantee you that when a mount bushing goes bad on a 947 the pipe bolts WILL work loose and you get classic 947 water ingestion failure. Loctite alone is not enough.
06-28-2009, 08:30 PM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
I don't mean to keep asking simple questions, I just want to be sure I'm doing it right the first time. (the idea that - never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over - not my thing) I went to Checkers and got the red or strongest locktight and some lock washers to put on the 3 bolts and nut on the manifold. Think that's good enough or would you still suggest the blue stuff?
Also, I'm not quit sure what bushing you are talking about. None of the bolts broke so should I even worry about it?
06-28-2009, 10:32 PM #6
The bushing is #10 on the diagram. It is two rubber pieces and a sleeve. It goes around the bolt that holds the pipe to the manifold. The fact that the bolts worked loose is reason enough to replace it.
DO NOT USE LOCTITE RED. Use the blue, it is fine and you will be able to get the bolts back out if you ever need to (without breaking the bolts, or worse). I would get a new gasket and hit that pipe flange and the manifold flange with some 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood. Stuff a rag into the manifold to keep stuff from going into the motor and sand the flanges until they are evenly scratched up (then clean them and pull the rag out) and put the gasket on dry.
No need to appologize for asking legitimate questions. None of us were born knowing this stuff. Most of the guys here (like me) did it just like you are. You will be fine.
Get a shop manual sometime soon (there are some available online on this site). This will cover most of the basic stuff and you will not have to wait for someone to answer.
06-29-2009, 10:30 PM #7
Replace the Bushing(s) which are the root cause of your problem.
DONT use lock washers under the 8mm Hex Bolts and Nut, use the Sea-Doo 8mm hardened washers which are extra thick load distribution washers. Sea-Doo upgraded them years ago FROM lock-washers for a reason....
Use Lock-Tite Blue on the Bolts and Nut, torque to 20/lbs.FT.
Like Krunch said, a new Gasket would be nice but requires you to remove the Pipe which you have to do anyway to replace the Bushing(s).
Failure to replace the rubber Bushing(s) will have you doing this same job again in a few hours, maybe even the fun job of removing the sheared off Exhaust Manifold bolts which you got away with not replacing this time -- your lucky.....
If you can't complete this job soon and run your engine with a 100% fixed Pipe to dry it out then you have to Fogg the crap out of the Engine interior since I guarantee you the pressurized water which was forced outward into your Hull from the loose flange almost assuredly was forced inward as well and down the Exhaust Pipe center --- into the core of your engine and Crank Bearings.... FOGG IT
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