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  1. #1

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    Some fun inside pictures

    Replaced the mag piston this weekend, look at this damage from a piece of ring....hell half the ring has melted to become part of the piston
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  2. #2
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    Wow you did a good job on that one !!!! You didnt feel it nose over ? Another sacrifice to the god of speed. Now is when your thankfull its not a 4 stroke $$$$

  3. #3
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    I would get a good used head. Also you need to find the reason for the problem.

  4. #4

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    QWell I repalced the cylinder and head and piston on the mag and pto end, the mag end is int he pictures, the pto was simply holed. I put the triple pump in, replaced all the fuel line (i know there was a leak as no air pressure was in the tank before, now it is fine) I replaced the fuel valve, and also the thermostat, gasket, a-ring and pop off valve as the valve was chewed up a bit from i guess sand blow by. I did the break in cycle, ten minutes on, ten off, then I checked it out. The mag plug is gray and dry, the center is wet and black and the pto is wet and clear. Does anyone have pictures of how plugs should look (lean, rich , and ok?) Also, my cousins 92 brigadier, even after a hard run, is cool to the touch on the cylinder and heads. Mine was hot, very hot to the touch, after just ten minutes. On the flush kit it stays cool, although I know the flush water starts from the top of the piston and flows reverse. When I flushed it after replacing the pistons a bunch of sand came out and clogged the filter... The flow for that water filter is towards the engine from the rear of the hull correct? How hot should these things run? I thought the lean cylinder would run hot while the others cold, but all were hot...any ideas?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seanace1 View Post
    ...I did the break in cycle, ten minutes on, ten off, then I checked it out.
    Ten minutes at what throttle levels?

    The mag plug is gray and dry, the center is wet and black and the pto is wet and clear.
    Gray, as in aluminum from the piston colored?

    ...Mine was hot, very hot to the touch, after just ten minutes.
    Sounds like the something in the cooling system is plugged up.

    On the flush kit it stays cool, although I know the flush water starts from the top of the piston and flows reverse.

    When I flushed it after replacing the pistons a bunch of sand came out and clogged the filter... The flow for that water filter is towards the engine from the rear of the hull correct?

    How hot should these things run? I thought the lean cylinder would run hot while the others cold, but all were hot...any ideas?
    Normal operating temperature is about 140F. At that temperature, you will be able to hold your hand on the engine or exhaust manifold for several seconds without burning yourself.

    Until you get this problem figured out, leave the thermostat and bypass valve out. Just install the thermostat housing empty.

    Cooling water comes in from the jet pump, down low on the right side of the pump tunnel (looking forward from the rear). There is a mesh screen inside the main jet pump nozzle. Make sure it is in place, and that it is not clogged.

    I think you will need to pull the cooling hoses apart, and flush each one out separately. Start with a reverse flush down the 3/4" feed hose. You should see the water flow streaming into the pump nozzle.

    If you have a lot of sand inside the engine or exhaust water jackets, that could be tough to flush out. You may need to dig deeper into the engine to get all the sand out.

    Click below for reference info.

  6. #6

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    I cant figure out how to quote the quote, but anyways it was ten minutes between idle and 3300 rpms, just doing little slow circles. It didnt burn me, but i think it was hotter than 140, where on the cylinder should that reading be taken, it would be cooler at the cylinder base than the head... And no there want any aluminum left from the hone, rings are new though....but more of a charcoal grey, and alot dryer than the center and pto plugs..

    I just replaced the thermo and pop off, but I guess ill try running that empty to see if the temps change, I thinkk ill pick up an electric thermometer sometime soon too

  7. #7
    Is it possible that the head gasket was not installed properly and that caused the cylinder to overheat and do that much damage?

  8. #8
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pseudonym View Post
    Is it possible that the head gasket was not installed properly and that caused the cylinder to overheat and do that much damage?
    A head gasket put on wrong can cause big problems,there is normally a "UP" cut into it. The best way to determine your carb setting is by reading the wash pattern,Do a search to see what they should look like. You can view it with a small flex light thru the spark plug hole.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    A head gasket put on wrong can cause big problems,there is normally a "UP" cut into it. The best way to determine your carb setting is by reading the wash pattern,Do a search to see what they should look like. You can view it with a small flex light thru the spark plug hole.
    how long should it run before you can read proper wash. The mag piston, the one with a lean plug reading, is brand new, new rings and all, on a fresh hone, as well as the pto... The reading was only taken after maybe 8 minutes at quarter to third throttle...

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    A head gasket put on wrong can cause big problems,there is normally a "UP" cut into it. The best way to determine your carb setting is by reading the wash pattern,Do a search to see what they should look like. You can view it with a small flex light thru the spark plug hole.
    Oh yeah, I saw the piston wash link, can you reuse the head gaskets at all? Expensive and require shipping time lol..

    And as far as installation, I remember twice and three times checking, UP is readable from above, and the tab is under the water bar per the factory manual..

    This one is throwing me! Im going to reset all the carbs and do another run tomorrow. i even pulled the exhaust water filter and cleaned it, and did a flush with the filter out, no sand coming out anymore...

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