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Thread: 93 wr650r 42hp

  1. #1

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    Cool Need help 93 wr650r 42hp

    Hello, I am a new PWC owner, just purchased a 93 yamaha WR650R, and was needing some info on how to improve the ride.

    1.) at top speed, the nose bounces up and down. and as this happens it sounds like the exhaust port is coming out of the water... ok don't laugh but just make the sound i am about to type... WAAA uhhhh WAAAAAA uhhhhh WAAAAA uhhhh (best i can decribe it to yall without hearing it) ROFL... Will a ride plate correct this issue???

    2.) Everything is stock on it, how can i improve the take off? It takes off great with one person, but if i have another, it seems to take a few before it gets on step... Kinda feels like a transmission sliping. (make sense?) Would the ride plate help with this as well, or maybe another type of intake work?

    FYI, someone told me to see if my impeller was worn out, or the clearence was more than a 16th of an inch from the (sleeve??) I checked and it almost looks like it is touching, so prolly a 16th of an inch is right. And the impeller doesn't look damaged or bent, so i assume it is good...

    3.) Any ideas on websites that carry parts for this year model???

    Thank you in advance, and hope to hear from someone.
    Last edited by hbb2096; 06-30-2009 at 01:33 PM. Reason: re title


  2. #2
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    i'll post replys in red below


    Quote Originally Posted by hbb2096 View Post
    hello, i am a new pwc owner, just purchased a 93 yamaha wr650r, and was needing some info on how to improve the ride.

    1.) at top speed, the nose bounces up and down. And as this happens it sounds like the exhaust port is coming out of the water... Ok don't laugh but just make the sound i am about to type... Waaa uhhhh waaaaaa uhhhhh waaaaa uhhhh (best i can decribe it to yall without hearing it) rofl... Will a ride plate correct this issue??? on your ride plate , there are trim adjuster screws that let you adjust this down at the rear... The rear adjustment will force the nose down on this hull,..by forcing the nose down you are then keeping the pump from sucking air... Because you are not sucking water, stops the pumps ability to push forward and hold the nose up.. Once this happens it falls off plane and then gets a big scoop of water again.. It keeps cycling thru this action until you lean way forward on the nose ( forcing it to stay down in front) post a pic so i can direct you further..

    2.) everything is stock on it, how can i improve the take off? It takes off great with one person, but if i have another, it seems to take a few before it gets on step... Kinda feels like a transmission sliping. (make sense?) would the ride plate help with this as well, or maybe another type of intake work? the slip is cavitation.. Some ways to improve this is open the nozzel up at the rear diameter.. Repitch your impeller to a higher pitch.....imo, ride one person only as wr's are to small to float two comfortably..an intake grate change is most noticable at speed not at a standing start, thou if you got a 2 bar or cut out the center bar on the o/e grate, you may pull in more water which may help.....

    fyi, someone told me to see if my impeller was worn out, or the clearence was more than a 16th of an inch from the (sleeve??) i checked and it almost looks like it is touching, so prolly a 16th of an inch is right. And the impeller doesn't look damaged or bent, so i assume it is good... the closer the better ... O/e is .008 to .024 (a 16th is not acceptable AT.062)..ideally You'd like to have it the .008 ( the sleeve or the impeller diameter may be worn)...also, It leading edge may look ok, while looking streight on,but to get the best out of it, it needs to be checked... for instance, if the leading edge is round and dull thru use, it cuts thru the water like a fat pipe (causing undesired turbulace in the scooped water) and not like a knife edge that slips thru pushing the water out cleanly..also check your stator hub for worn ,torn or bent fins...
    3.) any ideas on websites that carry parts for this year model??? protec may still carry some wr650 performance parts.. Other wise ebay...or try the dealers on the outside chance for nos stuff..

    thank you in advance, and hope to hear from someone.

  3. #3

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    Talking

    Awesome, thank you very much for the info... I shall take pictures when i get off work, and post later this evening or tomorrow morning.

    Would i want to back the adjustment screws out? or tighten inward?

    I will have the Impeller checked.

    And lol, what is a stator hub? sorry, told ya i was a NEWB..LOL

    I will post the pictures later, thank you again...

  4. #4
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    see below..

    Quote Originally Posted by hbb2096 View Post
    Awesome, thank you very much for the info... I shall take pictures when i get off work, and post later this evening or tomorrow morning.

    Would i want to back the adjustment screws out? or tighten inward? INWARD ON THE TWO REAR NOT MORE THAN 7 1/2 TURNS(from flush),THE FRONT(centers) only AT 1/2 AS MUCH,THIS WILL DROP THE REAR OF THE PLATE DOWN AND THE NOSE INTO THE WATER AT SPEED..(loosen the attaching bolts at all 6 points but only compleatly remove the center and rear bolts to adjust, then after needed adjustments .. install and retighten bolts after alining the adjusters to get them to feed thru to the hull inserts via the closest in rotation of the two holes in the adjuster itself....

    I will have the Impeller checked.

    And lol, what is a stator hub? sorry, told ya i was a NEWB..LOL STATOR HUB IS WHAT THE IMPELLER FORCES THE WATER FLOW AGAINST..IT SITS JUST IN BACK OF THE IMPELLER...YOU WILL SEE IT FROM THE REAR EASYLY.. ITS WHAT THE 3 BOLT CONE IS MOUNTED TO.. IT HAS SIX VEINS THAT CAN BE WORN ,TORN OR BENT ON THE FRONT SIDE THRU USE..

    I will post the pictures later, thank you again...

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    welcome to the forum

  6. #6

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    Awesome!!! Thank you, i can't wait to get home, adjust it, and get to the lake..... LOL

  7. #7

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    Ok here's what i got had to take two seperate pics to get the ride plate because of the trailer... the 3rd is trying to get the whole plate (can't see the front screws though... Let me know if they didn't come out, or if i need to take better pics...

    There were two screws that were loose, so i just tightened them back up, also will i need to use "lock tight" for the screws or anything; to do this?

    1.Back
    2.Front
    3.whole plate
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  8. #8

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    also, there are only 6 screws, and i have them tightened all the way in... And just a thought, but if i back them out, wont that make the plate slam up against the wave runner... ??? Does this model not support adjustments maybe?

  9. #9
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
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    ANSWERS...


    [quote=hbb2096;1118290]also, there are only 6 screws, and i have them tightened all the way in... TAKE ALL BUT THE TWO VERY FRONT BOLTS OUT .. LOOSEN THE FRONT ONLY.. THE PLATE WILL THEN NATURALLY DROP.. THE SILVER CAMS THAT THE BOTH SETS OF BOLTS(CENTER AND REAR) GO THRU ARE THREADED... THESE MUST BE ROTATED CLOCKWISE TO SCREW UP,BRINGING YOUR PLATE SETTING DOWN... THE CENTER IS SET HALF AS MUCH AS THE REAR IN HEIGHT(7 1/2 TURNS FROM FATORY FLUSH IS ALL THE MAUUAL RECOMENDS THAT YOU ARE ABLE TO SET THESE AT IN THE REAR).. THEN ONLY HALF AS MUCH AT THE CENTER.. ONCE YOUR NEEDED 3/8 TO 1/2 INCH DROP IS ATTAINED ,MEASURED AT THE REAR ADJUSTER , REINSTALL THE BOLTS TURNING THE CAMS JUST ENOUGH TO ALINE THE BOLTS THRU... USE BLUE LOCKTIGHT ON THE THRU BOLTS WHEN YOU FIND THE FINAL DROP YOU NEED TO DAMPEN OUT THE OCILATIONS


    And just a thought, but if i back them out, wont that make the plate slam up against the wave runner... ???OUT ONLY MAKES THE PLATE SET HIGHER,IF ITS NOT ALREADY AGAINST THE HULL ( BY THE LOOKS OF IT, YOUR PLATES UP AGAINST THE BOTTOM ALREADY)...OK, ONCE THE 4 BOLTS ARE OUT . PUSH THE PLATE UP ,SCREWING THE FOUR CAMS OUT TILL THE PLATE FITS FLUSH... THEN SCREW THE REAR MOST CAMS IN... AT A POINT IN SCREWING THE REAR CAMS UP, THEY WILL START TO PUSH THE PLATE DOWN... AT THE REAR LOCATION, SCREW THE REAR CAM'S EVENLY THEN ONLY 7 1/2 TURNS MORE IN, AFTER CONTACT... THEN INSTALL THE REAR BOLTS, TIGHTENING THE FRONT AND VERY REAR ONES ONLY... AT THE CENTER LIGHTLY SCREW THE CAMS UP/IN TILL THEY 'JUST' SEAT AGAINST THE HULL .. INSTALL THOSE BOLTS... TEST... THEN LOCK TIGHT EM AFTER YOU FIND WHERE THIS WORKS BEST ( YOU MAY ONLY NEED A FEW TURNS AND NOT ALL 7 1/2 TO KILL OCILLATIONS) Does this model not support adjustments maybe YES, IT HAS THEM .. YOU MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE PLATE ENTIRELY TO SEE HOW THEY WORK AND GET THEM TO LOOSEN UP TO ADJUST THEM... (CORROSION MAY HAVE FROZE THEM ALL IN PLACE)[/quote]

  10. #10

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    Lightbulb ah maaaannnn!!!! now i get it...

    OK I understand... man now i really feel like a newb...lol... guess i had to sleep on it. i noticed the cams, and even tried to turn one. But i guess the years of never being touched had them froze up. I will completely remove the plate when i get home today and get this done. You have been an amazing amount of help to me, and thanks for your patience.

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