Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    34

    Starter Issues - 95 Raider

    Hello Everyone,

    I need some help !!!

    I have a 95 wave raider and sometimes it will fire right up and other times all you hear is a clicking noise coming from the electrical box (Im assuming the clicking noise is from the starter relay)

    I have noticed that sometimes when I bang the starter with a mallet or hammer it will crank up, this time its not doing anything but the clicking noise. I have charged the battery and still the same issue. This issue comes and goes. It will start sometimes and will not other times.

    Also, at times, when it does start, you can hear the starter slipping, I have to press the start button several times for it to catch.

    Could I have a bad starter?

    I have had the ski since 95 and never have changed it. BTW - My ski was sitting for about 7 years. I have already ran it in the water but I am having this problem and dont want to go out to the beach to have to come back home

    Im thinking its the starter but could it be the starter relay?

    Any suggestions??


  2. #2
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Crystal River Fl
    Posts
    2,208
    Your having to tap on it tells me the starter internaly is prob bad or the bendix is frozen ( maybe for its non use )... takethe starter out and have it tested, other wise you will need to get to the bendix to replace it or grease it up again..

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    34
    Thanks for your input, RPM 500. Im thinking about changing it to a high tourque started from SBT. Do you think I should go with something maybe from Riva?

    I do plan on doing some work on the ski... I will be replacing the reeds since those have never been replaced either. I also have replaced my flame arrestors with Air cones and adapters from Riva.

    Have an MSD Ignitor CDI and also replaced the ingnition coil...

    Do you think a starter form SBT would be a good idea?

  4. #4
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Crystal River Fl
    Posts
    2,208
    i would have it checked by a starter shop and if bad , have it rebuilt by them... much cheaper and youll know what you have... you may be throwing the $'s away on something thats not bad...

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    34
    Thanks for the tip. I think Im going to remove it and have it checked.

    From reading older threads, some of the guys indicate to check the battery cables.

    I noticed that the positive battery lead that runs from the battery to the black electrical box into the starter relay had a bad connector. (the connector that it screwed to the battery) It was only reading 9.4 volts. So I replaced the connector with a marine connector and got some stainless steal screws and now Im getting a 12.7 volt reading.

    So when I tried to start it today it cranked right over. I took it out just to check another issue which I will explain in just a minute and when I hit the start button, the starter did not catch, I hit the start again and it catches. So the point is, I definately think something is bad with the starter. I think Im going to remove it this weekend. (Do you think an autoparts store like advance auto parts can check it, or would I need to take it to a pwc shop)

    Now, for my other issue. When I went out today, the ski turned on as indicated above and idled good. After about 5 minutes of idle, I decided to hit the throttle more and noticed the ski was really bogging. With the throttle all the way, it was not running at its peak. (only clocking 40, accorrding to the speedo) It did not feel good at all.

    I was thinking it may by the reeds. According to the manual, they can crack and chip and eventually go bad. Do you think the issue that Im having is related to the reeds?

    The ski did not shut off in the water like it did about a week ago, it just would not pick up speed. (As if I had seaweed or something) I checked for debris in the intake grate and nothing.

    Could it be the reeds, or could the carbs need some adjustment?

    I really hope you can provide some more of your feedback...

    Thanks again for helping!!!

  6. #6
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Crystal River Fl
    Posts
    2,208
    quick hunches..(your reeds are probly ok)... make sure your choke is all the way open when its in 'open' position...(in).. then adjust your needles .. it sounds like a wr does when its first run with carbs set at factory specifyed settings.. it falls all over itself and will hardly transition because the high side is dumping fuel in more than it needs...

    starting... recheck all those cable connections including the ground at the block.. it forms corrosion where it bolts.... dont think its a starter issue, but a check internally cant hurt..

    one of the W/R's goes thru a intermitant run button issue,some times it wont start ( crank, no start) .. so I cycle the run button a few times and she is good until it happens again.. your start button may be doing the same thing ..( its just a closed circut when its pushed ,open when not) when it happens again ,test it via the connectors comeing down out of the steering asmb...),

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    34
    Thanks, will try that this weekend.
    Im going to check the compression in the pistons today also (Do you know what reading I should be getting?)

    Honestly, I have messed around with the carb low/high screws, so it very well could be out of sinc. ( The problem is, I dont really know much about carb adjustemts, so Im afraid to keep messing with them. I do see one of the screws being way out.. (Not sure if it should be that way) (The screw on the bottome right side of the left carb is the one that seems to be extremely out).

    I think im going to change my reeds anyway since I have had the ski since 95 and have never replaced them.

    I do have a MSD CDI that has a rev limiter. (Not sure if that is important at the moment)

    While working on it yesterday, I did noticed that the choke was all the way open while having it in the "in" position.

    When you say to adjust my needles, are you referring to the low/high screws?

    One more thing, to get to the starter, Im assuming, I will need to remove the exhaust (waterbox) correct?

    It seems there is alot of parts to remove in order to get to the starter....

  8. #8
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Crystal River Fl
    Posts
    2,208
    replys

    Quote Originally Posted by ozman087 View Post
    Thanks, will try that this weekend.
    Im going to check the compression in the pistons today also (Do you know what reading I should be getting?) dont have exact#s in front of me,between 130 and 145 for your engine

    Honestly, I have messed around with the carb low/high screws, so it very well could be out of sinc. ( The problem is, I dont really know much about carb adjustemts, so Im afraid to keep messing with them. I do see one of the screws being way out.. your carbs are marked H for high,L for low... high should be about 1 turn.. low about 7/8 .. youll need to watch your plug color and detirmine where you stand.. adjust in 1/8 incraments on hih.. low is finding a good consitant idel at about 1300 rpm (Not sure if it should be that way) (The screw on the bottome right side of the left carb is the one that seems to be extremely out).

    I think im going to change my reeds anyway since I have had the ski since 95 and have never replaced them. carbontech ,boysens or tdr are all good replacements...( remember you may get less life with a fiber reed over a metal..

    I do have a MSD CDI that has a rev limiter. (Not sure if that is important at the moment)this is the last thing id add to the ski... get everything else right first... youll prob have to then do adjustments after adding it...

    While working on it yesterday, I did noticed that the choke was all the way open while having it in the "in" position. good, thought id ask

    When you say to adjust my needles, are you referring to the low/high screws? yes high and low screws

    One more thing, to get to the starter, Im assuming, I will need to remove the exhaust (waterbox) correct? not sure , its possible... id check everything else before pulling that...

    It seems there is alot of parts to remove in order to get to the starter....

  9. #9

    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    34
    Thanks RPM - Im going to try all that out this weekend. 3

    I will need to be in the water to check if my low/high screws are set accurately, correct?

    Also, Should I close the low/high screws for both carbs and then start from there? or should I just turn them in or out from the current position they are in?

    Do you think that by me having after market arrestors ( I have the Riva - Cone filters and adaptors on my dual 38's) is a problem without having modifications made to my exhaust pipes? (I thought I read something on this)

    BTW - When you say "check the plug color" are you referring to the spark plugs?

  10. #10
    Old Ski Insanity w/rpm500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Crystal River Fl
    Posts
    2,208
    my replys

    Quote Originally Posted by ozman087 View Post
    Thanks RPM - Im going to try all that out this weekend. 3

    I will need to be in the water to check if my low/high screws are set accurately, correct? you will fine tune on the water with a good tach for rpms and if possible a gps for speed readings ... other wise stat of the pants and a stop watch along with a good ear being your only resort...

    Also, Should I close the low/high screws for both carbs and then start from there? or should I just turn them in or out from the current position they are in?turn em in till they are 'lightly' seated then un-screw them to the setting.
    ( generally the high speed screw is positioned the higher on the cab as compaired to where the low sits)... some carbs dont have a low screw at all but yours should..

    Do you think that by me having after market arrestors ( I have the Riva - Cone filters and adaptors on my dual 38's) is a problem without having modifications made to my exhaust pipes? (I thought I read something on this)no , but as you have these you may need to run a tad richer than the o/e settings as these generally let more air in...( question those f/a's are clean,correct?)

    BTW - When you say "check the plug color" are you referring to the spark plugs?
    yes there are stickys in begining on most of the yami sections,look in them to find the threads that explane color differences and then how to do plug chop... which will help in your determining your lean or rich running conditions..the color your looking for is a nice med. lite brown...

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. changing starter on wave raider 1100
    By dannymk2 in forum Yamaha Old School Skis
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 01-20-2017, 07:54 AM
  2. blaster starter issue
    By DANGER1049 in forum Yamaha Old School Skis
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-13-2008, 08:14 AM
  3. 94 starter in 95
    By gargoyle725 in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-05-2007, 01:39 PM
  4. 95 Raider 1100
    By Dentwizard in forum Yamaha Old School Skis
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-09-2007, 08:43 AM
  5. Starter Issue, anybody else?
    By jdracer in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 07-27-2007, 01:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •