Thread: For those installing the skegs
07-28-2006, 09:43 PM #1
How To: installing the skegs tips!
Here is a little tip i wanted to share that i learned from installing the skegs on my ski.
The single most important thing is to make damn sure they are parallel with the rideplate (front to back)
If they are off, even just slightly they could scrub speed.
To ensure your skegs are parallel you can do this. (Wish i had pics, but my camera is acting up on me)
On the RXP's you will notice a little round semi circle on the front of the rideplate where it meets the grate. Make a mark dead center of this semi circle.
Now, go to the back of your rideplate where the 5mm allen head drain plug is and make another mark. Now use a straight edge and draw a line down the center of your rideplate between the two marks you just made.
Now, measure from the center of the line on the front of the rideplate out 2 3/4" and make a mark (left and right of the line)
This gives you your 5 1/2" spacing.
Now, do this at the rear of the rideplate too. Now you have little hash marks in which you will use to perfectly place the skegs tips on to ensure they are both parallel, and 5.5" apart.
Having them parallel is CRUCIAL.
Also, as the epoxy sets up it tends to shrink which could move the skegs. I check mine every 5 minutes to ensure they haven't moved.
Just thought i would share!
Last edited by MikeTrin; 07-11-2007 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Moved to how-to
07-28-2006, 10:21 PM #2
I got a board that was like 4 inches width. I then put 2 cuts in it that were 5.5 inches apart and parallel. The cuts were deep enough so you can flip the skegs and rest the top of triangle on them.
So I put the skegs upside down on the board and then used basic bathroom silicone down the sides of it. With the silicone down the sides of both of them I put another board on top and let it sit for an hour so it would harden. I now have a skeg sandwich and I can remove the top board with skegs upside down.
Tommorow I'm going to just put jb weld on the skegs and use a bottle jack to push the board to the rideplate.
I also scrubbed the bottom of the skegs with 60 grit and I'm going to do the same on the rideplate for better hold on the epoxy.
After the epoxy dries I'm going to remove the board, wipe off the silicone and sand off the excess epoxy.
Last edited by Kinchyle; 07-28-2006 at 10:55 PM.
07-28-2006, 10:29 PM #3
As Kanuck staes Jerry, a jig in the form of slits in a 2x12 work awsome. No room for error. A jack is a must!
Gotta add, with shrinkage,,,mine moved. Gotta bust off and start over
Last edited by HOSS; 07-28-2006 at 10:36 PM.
07-29-2006, 07:01 AM #4
Good post. This will come in handy when I buy my RXP or T.
07-29-2006, 10:07 AM #5
Yea, a jig is great, but getting the skegs straight (front to back) on the rideplate is a must.
07-30-2006, 12:56 AM #6
It's a shame this thread was posted afer I installed mines! I have yet to test them and will do Monday. Hopefully they are straight. They are 5.5" apart though.
07-30-2006, 04:47 AM #7
All JB Weld jokes aside, the Kinchster is proving himself to be a real thinker around here!!! Kudo's dude!!!
07-30-2006, 08:09 AM #8
Mine aren't exactly straight. I think I'll do them over. WHat is the best way to knock these off without damaging the ride plate or skegs?
I know it wont be too easy that epoxy is tough.
07-30-2006, 08:25 AM #9
I have knocked skegs off 20 times trying to find the best size/placement.
The easiest way is to use a hammerhead putty knife
Start at the back of the skeg and just keep pounding it in. The skeg eventually breaks loose.
Then use an electric palm sander to get the residual epoxy off of the ride plate and skeg.
07-30-2006, 08:43 AM #10
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