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  1. #1

    1999 & 2000 Yamaha 1200xl

    Rear cylinder in both have 35lbs of compression compared to 120+lbs on the other cylinders? I did notice that both waverunners had dry sparkplugs on the rear cyl compared to wet sparkplugs on the other cylinders. What can I do in the future to help ensure that this doesn't happen again?
    I assume I am going to find burnt pistons on both. What causes the rear cylinder to go bad? Is there any special tricks I should know before pulling the head and the rear cylinders? Can I do this withoutpulling the motor out?
    Last edited by durango9099; 07-07-2009 at 11:44 AM. Reason: added question


  2. #2
    Yamaha XLT1200 GP1200R jet-nut's Avatar
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    Can you see a puddle of oil in the bottom of the ski under the engine?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by jet-nut View Post
    Can you see a puddle of oil in the bottom of the ski under the engine?
    YES, what does that mean?
    Last edited by durango9099; 07-07-2009 at 12:21 PM. Reason: more comments

  4. #4
    Yamaha XLT1200 GP1200R jet-nut's Avatar
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    Your #3 oil line has come loose. This is a typical problem with Yamaha's 1200 engines. They attach the oil line with cable ties and they come loose starving the #3 cylinder of oil. Happened to me too.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jet-nut View Post
    Your #3 oil line has come loose. This is a typical problem with Yamaha's 1200 engines. They attach the oil line with cable ties and they come loose starving the #3 cylinder of oil. Happened to me too.
    Can I pull head and cyl while engine still in boat? Where didyou get replacement parts?

  6. #6
    Yamaha XLT1200 GP1200R jet-nut's Avatar
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    Stand by the long answer is coming up...

  7. #7
    Yamaha XLT1200 GP1200R jet-nut's Avatar
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    Mine was much worse, #3 was completely destroyed. And the #2 cylinder dropped a power valve and hit the top of the piston, so my engine was a total loss. I had to pull it and sent it off for rebuilding.

    There are several places that do this kind of work, first is SBT stand for short block technologies. They have all the parts you need to rebuild your #3 cylinder or they can sell you a complete rebuilt core with a 2 year no fault warranty. Some people don’t like SBT to much, do a search for SBT on this forum and decided for yourself.
    Sbtontheweb.com

    The place I'm using is a much smaller outfit call Advanced Engine Machining, They only rebuild cores, no part sales. But they are much cheaper on a complete rebuild with the same warranty. No web site

    There are some things you will need to do to keep this from happening again.

    Replace all of the oil lines with high temp tubing and secure them with crimp style straps and safety wire. Or consider removing the oil pump and going pre-mix. I like the oil injection for convenience reasons, and if the oil lines stay on its 100% reliable.

    Install WaveEater clips on all 3 of your power valves.

    Consider removing your Catalytic converter and installing a “D” plate in its place, makes the engine run much cooler.

    That’s about all I’ve got, the people on this forum are great and have been a big help for me. I’ve gotten a lot of really great advice.

  8. #8
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Since you are going to have it all apart anyway make sure you rebuild the carbs. It is simply time to do it.

  9. #9
    Yamaha XLT1200 GP1200R jet-nut's Avatar
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    Agreed

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by jet-nut View Post
    Mine was much worse, #3 was completely destroyed. And the #2 cylinder dropped a power valve and hit the top of the piston, so my engine was a total loss. I had to pull it and sent it off for rebuilding.

    There are several places that do this kind of work, first is SBT stand for short block technologies. They have all the parts you need to rebuild your #3 cylinder or they can sell you a complete rebuilt core with a 2 year no fault warranty. Some people don’t like SBT to much, do a search for SBT on this forum and decided for yourself.
    Sbtontheweb.com

    The place I'm using is a much smaller outfit call Advanced Engine Machining, They only rebuild cores, no part sales. But they are much cheaper on a complete rebuild with the same warranty. No web site

    There are some things you will need to do to keep this from happening again.

    Replace all of the oil lines with high temp tubing and secure them with crimp style straps and safety wire. Or consider removing the oil pump and going pre-mix. I like the oil injection for convenience reasons, and if the oil lines stay on its 100% reliable.

    Install WaveEater clips on all 3 of your power valves.

    Consider removing your Catalytic converter and installing a “D” plate in its place, makes the engine run much cooler.

    That’s about all I’ve got, the people on this forum are great and have been a big help for me. I’ve gotten a lot of really great advice.
    Thanks for your help, it sounds like I got some real work ahead of me. Being you didn't say no I'm going to try and pull the head and cylinder with motor in waverunner? I do not know what WaveEater clips are and where do you get a D plate?

    I now know what a clip is and where to get them but nbot the D plate
    Last edited by durango9099; 07-07-2009 at 01:49 PM. Reason: update

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