07-07-2009, 02:48 PM #1
Looking for How To: Bearing lock up replacement
2002 GTI le family boat. I have been searching all day fellas and I can't quite seem to find what I'm looking for. All the info here is awesome but I'm just not putting my finger on the how to for a locked up pump, or bearing, or whatever it is that has me down right now. Pretty sure it's not the engine, I can still get the shaft to turn a bit. I've seen a few instructions on taking apart jet pump and ring. Do I just start at the back like that and keep going til I find something burnt and needing replaced? It was making a bit of a strange noise before lockup. Kinda squealing sound. I know, that should have been a hint right there. Thanks for any help. If someone could just flip me to the right link for how to on this fix.
07-07-2009, 06:54 PM #2
You need to get the pump off first so you can isolate what is keeping it from turning.
It will either be the pump or the engine.
07-07-2009, 09:18 PM #3
Thanks Krunch, I should have been doing that tonight. I don't think I'll get to that until Friday now. I'll report back when it's done.
07-08-2009, 08:38 AM #4
I just had a similar thing happen to me on Saturday. I lost the front bearing in my engine on the crank and it seized the motor right up. I pulled the pump to see what the issue was and found the engine was siezed. I pulled the head and the cylilnders looked perfect. So deeper I go and pulled the crank to find the end bearing bad for sure and the next one (full of stuff from the front bearing) shold be replaced as well. I was able to turn the motor a bit with a pipe wrench, but I wouldnt recommend it. My machinist said there is a slight like 5% chance the bearing did not mess up the crank and he can put a new bearing on. He told me more than likely he will cut the outer part of the bearing off then turn down the inner part until it is paper thin and then pull it off. If there is any chance of saving the crank this will be it. If the bearing spun on it which he said happens 95% of the time he will have to turn down the journal send it out to be re chormed and then get it back and turn it down to correct size to put bearing back on. Sucks cause I just was getting it dialed in. Luckily I got a guy on here to trade with me for a crank that was rebuilt by tweeker so hopefully I can get it back running for my daughter.
07-08-2009, 05:45 PM #5
Good news...I just pulled the pump off and it's locked. The engine spins free. Saving me some moeny here.
Back to it now to take apart the pump.
07-09-2009, 11:48 AM #6
I'd like to throw on an aftermarket impeller while I'm doing this fix. I can't access the classifides yet, not enough posts under my belt. Anyone out there have any good advice for me on which one would work best to help the performance of this sedate machine. I'd like it to pull a little stronger maybe. Or if someone has something for sale, I'd be up for that avenue as well. I have to wait for my spline tool so I can finish getting the thing apart, still don't know what the shaft is gonna look like but I'm not too confident it will be usable. When I pulled the nose cone off, a handful of metal chunks and shavings came with it. I'll have some pics when I'm finished but it looks like someone had already been in there and the nose cone was cracked. They just put some silicone in the crack and put it back together. Prolly right before they sold it to me. Thanks for that!!!! The only thing I saw when I pulled the cone was water and chips. The slider assembly was even melted.
07-09-2009, 12:14 PM #7
By "Pull a little stronger, maybe" do you mean better acceleration or top speed?
You might get a little better hookup with a Skat Swirl for it. I had one on a 140mm pump and it was a big improvement over stock.
Now, the proper pitch would be the question.
Considering that you have a 600lb (dry) boat with only 85hp you could easily overload the engine with too much pitch in the prop. Drop the pitch too much and you are on the rev limiter all the time if you get some good water and want to wind it out (leaving you with unused revs=inefficient). Pump tuning can be a serious PITA if you do not have time and some experience.
Keep in mind, if you did tune and tweek until you found the perfect pitch you may not notice any difference.
If you want to go with a Skat get the one they recommend for the hull and just enjoy the ride.
IMO, unless you get a lot of choppy water where you ride the stock prop is sufficient on that hull based on cost and probable gain.
07-09-2009, 01:19 PM #8
I did mean better acceleration just to clairfy. Thanks for your opins Krunch, I appriciate it. Now...what about for my stock 01 RXdi? What would you recomend? It has about 110 hrs on it and still runs strong but sometimes has a little cavitation when you nail it hard out of the hole. Finding out how easy this jet pump thing is, I'm ready to tear into the yellow one for a swap and to check things out there as well. Don't really need another lock up situation again. That was not fun. I think I have enough top end speed with this one, so some more bite might be kinda fun. The lieometer shows it pushing high 60's.
07-09-2009, 02:05 PM #9
My guess on that RXDI would be that you may need a wear ring and or you might have some dings on the prop.
The stock prop in that boat is a pretty good all around unit.
Your best bet with it would probably be to send the prop to Dave at Impros. Have him do the Works on it and see what he recommends for trailing edge pitch. He knows his props and if you tell him you have a bone stock RXDI he should know what you can and can not do with it. I am not sure what you can get away with on a stock DI (all my stuff is carb) but he should.
07-09-2009, 06:39 PM #10
Here's a few pics of what I've found so far. Metal chips, water in the pump, melted slider and a cracked cone. More later when I get the rest apart. Waiting for my spline tool now.
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