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Thread: 2001 genisis I

  1. #1

    2001 genisis I

    this ski is garage stored with low hours it lost power and revs and wont get up on plane has new battery ,plugs , fresh fuel . cyl no. 1-120 psi. plug black/oily cyl no. 2-120 psi. plug black/oily cyl no.3 95 psi. plug tan/normal fuel presure 20+ ( return line restricter is in place) took to dealer recomended complete top end rebuild but that the problem may still exist. checked for codes none found. i think its a fuel injection problem . lack of fuel causing rich cyl no. 1&2 when i spoon feed a little fuel into no. 1&2 throtle bodys engine perks up and revs smooth and strong ? emm ? injectors ? any ideas or feed back would be greatly apreciated thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Click below for service manuals, and other good info.

    Click here for some Ficht related info.

    What do you mean by lack of fuel causing rich condition in cylinders 1 & 2?
    Normally, lack of fuel causes lean condition.

    No codes in the EMM?

    When you manually add fuel, the engine speeds up - correct?
    This is out of the water, at idle?

    That would be normal, as the Ficht engines run very lean at idle, with excess air flow through the throttle bodies. Adding fuel will raise idle RPM, as long as you have spark and compression.

    Does each cylinder respond about the same to added fuel?

    Are the correct spark plugs installed?
    NGK PZFR6H only - no substitutes.
    Do fresh spark plugs make a difference?

    Check the injector voltage on the White/Red wire(s), with all injectors plugged in. Should be over 20 volts when cranking, then jump to near 45 volts at idle, and stay near that as RPM rise.

    Does the engine respond smoothly to the throttle lever when out of the water? In the water?

    Any warning light or messages on MFI display?

    What is the max RPM the engine will reach in and out of the water?
    Rev limiter is 7200RPM, but go easy with the throttle out of the water.

  3. #3
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    I'd also like to say WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!
    I'm also curious as to which plugs you are running.
    What events led up to the power loss??
    Have you ever replaced the TPS sensor?
    Try a fresh battery, check compression with a screw in gauge and test from front to rear THEN check compression from rear to front and let us know what you have.

  4. #4
    first thanks so much for responding 1. by rich i mean fuel to oil ratio 2.checked with polaris software and no codes found has corect plugs new plugs made no diference . when out of water start & idels fine revs to limit with mid range hesistaions. there has allways been black soot on transom 3.when fuel is added to no. 1&2 mid range hesistaion clears up instantly. 4.no warning lights or messages on display 5.i was riding high alt. 7500' lost top end power-2000 or 3000 max rpm slow cruse back to camp.thought i picked up somthing in the inpeller but it was clear.5.i have not replaced tps sensor. battery is new and tested 12.2 v.d.c compression (screw in) 3 times-avg. 1-120psi, 2-120psi, 3 (rear)95psi

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeo58 View Post
    ...1. by rich I mean fuel to oil ratio

    2.checked with Polaris software and no codes found
    has correct plugs new plugs made no difference .

    when out of water start & idles fine revs to limit with mid range hesitations.

    there has always been black soot on transom

    3.when fuel is added to no. 1&2 mid range hesitation clears up instantly.

    4.no warning lights or messages on display

    5. I was riding high alt. 7500' lost top end power-2000 or 3000 max rpm slow cruise back to camp....

    5. I have not replaced TPS sensor.

    battery is new and tested 12.2 v.d.c

    compression (screw in) 3 times-avg.
    1-120psi, 2-120psi, 3 (rear)95psi
    Has this engine or EMM been serviced/replaced in the past?

    At the moment, I would suspect the EMM has a problem.
    DFI Technologies - Repair service for Polaris Ficht EMM modules


    In any case, I suggest you replace the TPS with a new one. It may help, and it is a good idea to have a spare. Install the new one, and keep the old TPS as a spare.
    Ficht TPS versions, sources


    The low compression PTO cylinder needs to be fixed, of course. I would think only that cylinder would need a new top end, as the compression numbers on the other two cylinders seem good enough.

    When the PTO cylinder/head comes off, the reason for the low compression should become apparent.


    Check that the control arm on the oil pump is in the correct position. The arm should be roughly horizontal in the hull, such that when you squeeze the throttle, the oil cable pulls the pump arm upwards in the hull.

    If the cable to the oil pump is removed, the tension spring on the oil pump will swing the arm way past the normal idle position. The pump arm would then be pointing roughly straight down in the hull.

    If the oil cable was re-connected with the oil pump arm in this 'spring relaxed' downward position, the oil pump will operate continually at 100% flow rate. This can cause oil fouling of the spark plugs, and excessive oil consumption.

    With the oil pump arm and cable correctly connected, you can use a small mirror to check the index mark on the pump arm hub against the index mark on the pump body.

    The two index marks should align when viewed straight on, or the pump arm mark can be slightly advanced (in the direction that the arm moves when the throttle is squeezed).

    Note: Throttle cable must have just enough slack to allow the throttle plates to close against the stop. The oil pump index must be checked any time the throttle cable slack is adjusted.

  6. #6
    thanks agin for all the help you guys are awsome. I spent the last couple nights runing tests. i should mension that i have two genisis I so i can swap parts . i have manule and folowed test procedures. checked injector voltage good 20/45v checked tps ohms good same as other ski. checked tps conector . checked ohms on all coils ok . checked ohms crank shaft position sensor. checked oil pump index ok . cleaned oily spark plugs . starts quickly idels fine-bad hesistation mid range added fuel at throtle bodies smoked but ran strong ??? i'm trying !!!!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeo58 View Post
    ...I have two Genesis i so I can swap parts.
    I have manual and followed test procedures.

    ...checked TPS ohms good same as other ski.
    checked TPS connector

    ...starts quickly idles fine-bad hesistation mid range added fuel at throtle bodies smoked but ran strong...
    TPS bench tests are not very useful. Engine vibration can cause aTPS that meters correctly to fail when actually bolted to a running engine.

    The best test for a TPS is to swap in known good TPS. Do this before you swap other parts.

    Also gently squeeze the metal sockets in the TPS a little tighter, to ensure a solid metal to metal contact. There should be no dielectric grease or other contamination inside the TPS connector.

    Since you have a second Genesis i, I suggest you swap in the EMM from the other Genesis, and see if the problem goes away.

    Do not ride it hard and long
    , with the EMM swapped - just enough to confirm that the problem is fixed, or not fixed.

  8. #8
    i wish there was a way to really thank you for your help!!!! swaped tps this morning and it woked perfect.. my ski runs good and you saved me a $2500 screwing from my frendly dealer. your the greatest!!!

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeo58 View Post
    Swapped TPS this morning and it worked perfect.. my ski runs good and you saved me a $2500 ...
    Glad to hear the problem has been nailed down

    Ficht TPS versions, sources

  10. #10
    where can i get tps ? babbits takes to long and offers no shiping opptions.

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