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  1. #1
    redbull's Avatar
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    Aug 2007
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    NQ Racing CC RXP's Build

    So we have 2 RXP's in the garage that are over the next week or so becoming open class monsters. Both running near on identical setups for me and my brother. Both ski's are partially built with only motor work to be carried out, but I'm going to use this thread to document the process and record some of the tuning information (a/f, rideplate, sponsons)

    The Red Rxp #167:

    Installed:
    Worx Sponsons
    Worx Grate
    Umi Steering
    Piranha RRFPR
    Custom front 4" Air Intake
    Custom XS IC (with bleed line)

    To be Installed:
    C Kit SC
    Black Magic Headers
    Shorty Gibson Muffler
    Bored TB
    Seadoo Centre Valve Retainers
    Seadoo Centre Reflashed Ecu (8650 rpm) & 60lb Inj
    Walbro high pressure fuel pump
    15/19 skat 3 blade (See how the 14/19 spins up)
    Seadoo Centre driveshaft bearing seal

    The Blue Rxp #181:

    Installed:
    Worx Sponsons (with extra spacer)
    Worx Grate
    Custom Steering
    Seadoo Centre reflashed ECU (8650 rpm) & 60lb Inj
    Seadoo Centre Valve Retainers
    B Kit SC
    Gibson Muffler
    Custom front 4" Intake
    Custom XS IC (with bleed line)
    Seadoo Centre driveshaft bearing seal

    To be Installed:
    C Kit SC
    UMI Steering
    Pump extension Kit
    New J pipe (for 02 bung)

    Those are the setups we are hoping to run, most of the parts are sitting here now still waiting on some, big thanks to hydrojunkie for hooking me up with my headers and both C kits, was great to deal with and quick delivery.

    Tomorrow it all begins and its late so will take pictures tomorrow. Need to find an A/f meter as well. Anyone know where the best place is to pick one up in aus?

    Laters
    Redbull



  2. #2
    Richieb's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
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    I think you will find the C kit a little out for CC racing. You need up-&-Go, not top end speed, and as there is little difference, I would stick with the B, it's more tractable... unless you are doing drag straight line work with them.

    Just I have tried them, and also heard it from the horses mouth too.

    If you want a good A/F meter, then get an LM-2 from Kade Speed And Marine.com.au. with the 3 bar, and extra analogue if you have the spare $'s

    Real good prices, the best I could source in Australia. 07 4987 5393, talk to Kate.

  3. #3
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    I would replace the worx sponsons with the stock sponsons and drop them 23mm. On the RXP platform it works awsome but you do need UMI to make it preditable but it hangs on so tight in all conditions from heavy race chop to glass this setup is awsome. Every CC rider in UK with a RXP is running dropped sponsons. Just amazing. R88

  4. #4

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    yeah you need to drop the sponsons

  5. #5
    canadian iceman
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    so when you drop the sponsons do you notch the holes or how do you get them down the 23mm??

  6. #6
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IM2FAST4U View Post
    so when you drop the sponsons do you notch the holes or how do you get them down the 23mm??
    Take the sponsons off and take the inserts out of the hull. You will have to undo the nuts from the inside. This involves removing your water box and resenator if you still have it fitted as the bolts are behind. Then fill the old holes with silicon, drill new holes 23mm further down the hull. Let the silicon in the old holes set hard then with some more silicon on the back to seal them on refit the sponsons. Awsome handeling if you like to turn hard around bouy's n stuff. In my opinion the UMI or X steering with the lower bracket is neccersary to give the best handeling however I did have my sponsons dropped with the stock steering. Personal preference. R88

  7. #7
    canadian iceman
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    when you say it is good around bouys....?? i have riva sponsons on now with the block offs...do you really think it is better to drop them than run riva's??

  8. #8
    richrxp's Avatar
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    Just curious about the 23 mm.

    How come it exactly 23 mm,is this tested on cc racing?

    I know dropped sponsons work well,but just like some more info !

  9. #9
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IM2FAST4U View Post
    when you say it is good around bouys....?? i have riva sponsons on now with the block offs...do you really think it is better to drop them than run riva's??
    Better than any aftermarket sponson. What I mean is when you lean it into a corner it just builds the G force and stays there. No unpredictable hook or slipping. Its extremly precise so when you want to turn it does there is no waiting or trying to find the point of turn it just does what you want when you want it. Also it cuts out porpoising. Its hard to put into words really but there is a reason that all the CC racers run this way and that is coz its the best. Im not saying that it is for every1 but if you like turning bouys hard and fast then you will love it. If you wana go fast in a straight line then its not for you. but for high speed preditable turns then its the best, But you better be ready to hang on, belive me you will let go befor the ski does. R88

  10. #10
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    Yes 23mm is CC tested, I dont like name dropping but the biggest names in UK CC racing run exactly this way (including 107racing see you at tatt John). Anywhere from 20-25mm will work, the lower you go the more aggresive it gets. I run mine at 23 and love it. I know it sounds so little but it makes a big difference. R88

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