Thread: 1050 reed cage sealing.....
07-11-2009, 08:37 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Cambridge, Canada
1050 reed cage sealing.....
I just finished cleanin up my reeds, and im about to install them and manifold, and im lookin at the rubber gasket around em, and it doesnt look like its going seal very well.. it looks to be at the same height as the rim of the cage if you know what i mean.. Is it possible to throw on black rtv to seal it or threebond, or do i have to buy new cages ? i definately dont want to lean out my new baby....
07-16-2009, 08:43 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
I just had air leak from old motor front seal, replaced engine with SBT New motor, Carb rebuild. I cleaned reeds up with WD40/Carb cleaner and soft brush, did not use black rtv sealant and had no problems. If you have air Leak you will know it engine will rev and not come back to idol.
08-28-2009, 12:15 AM #3
I have the same issue on my 900 rebuild. Anybody have any other feedback on this?
08-28-2009, 12:48 AM #4
Absolutely have feedback
My dad and I recently rebuilt his SL900 engine. Had the same problem. On one of the reeds the black rubber line was just cracked and a mess, so we replaced that reed. The other two looked fine.
Once we leak tested the engine, we were getting constant bubbles at the MAG reed. We tightened em real hard, we tried switching them around, nothing worked.
So in the end we did try putting some gasket sealent around the suspect reed cage.
Sure enough after that the engine held 10 psi indefinitely. We even tried again 18 hours later and it still held.
My thought would be that if it passes the leak test you are good.
Doing a leak test will help cure any questions you have. Its really not that tough even with the engine in the boat. For a domestic all you have to do is remove the carbs and loosen the pipe.
08-28-2009, 12:55 AM #5
I cannot for the life of me find the procedures for leak testing. Where are they???
08-28-2009, 10:36 AM #6
You know it is very possibly there are not instructions for one in the technical section.
I actually have an instruction sheet from Randy that I can scan later and get uploaded.
You will need a couple of things:
1. Air pump with gauge, or a pump and a gauge seperate.
2. Rubber block off gaskets for the exhaust pipe and the carburators. I got mine from Watcon. I would think he still has them, if not you can probably make your own.
Basically you unscrew the carbs and the exhaust pipe then you put the rubber gaskets in and tighten the carbs and the pipe back down. Then you connect the air pump to one of the pulse lines and pressurize the engine to 10 psi. It should be able to hold that for at least three minutes. If you find that the psi is not holding then you take a soapy solution and spray it all over the engine until you find your leak. Once the leak is found, you can take the necessary measures to stop it (replace seal, tighten some screws, whatever it takes)
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