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  1. #1
    Haven't fallen yet. MJE's Avatar
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    keyways...i'd sticky this

    so there i was...it was summer 08' and i had just RE-installed my 3 degree keyway and put the motor together...from compression and back pressure from the water it sheared off and went nearly 180 degrees out of phase turning my brand new motor into a vacuum system via the exhaust...

    fast forward 2009...

    took flywheel off to change a seal i wasn't happy with...RE-installed "higher end" keyway...rinse and repeat 2008.

    moral of story...

    keyways that are advanced (degrees) seem to only take a single torquing before they are spent...

    replace them at any time you are touching the flywheel along with the bolt that holds the flywheel in place.


    laugh if you must...learn from my mistake(s)


  2. #2

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    wow that sucks mike sorry to hear this

  3. #3
    Haven't fallen yet. MJE's Avatar
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    i have one ski that honestly chews through a keyway with the first ride of each season...reversing timing and turning the exhaust pipe into a vacuum hose. It's only happened on this one machine and I've done several other keyway installs and never had problems. However like last year and the year before...the first trip down the ramp, the first start while in the water with the additional backpressure creates another days worth of work to pull, clean and reassemble that devil of a motor.

    Mike

  4. #4
    o uncola o's Avatar
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    If you are chewing up keys like that... I am not sure that it is a reusing key situation that is your problem... any ideas about other possible reasons?

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to lap the crank snout to the flywheel. If the mating surfaces are not perfect you will sheer the key every time.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...hlight=lapping

  6. #6
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Sounds like you need to lap the crank snout to the flywheel. If the mating surfaces are not perfect you will sheer the key every time.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...hlight=lapping
    That was my first thought too.

  7. #7
    Haven't fallen yet. MJE's Avatar
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    i do that every time. I used loctite red however. my issue is my own stupidity...I appreciate the heads up however. Anyone have nice 4 degree keyways for sale? PM me.

  8. #8

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Sounds like you need to lap the crank snout to the flywheel. If the mating surfaces are not perfect you will sheer the key every time.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...hlight=lapping
    +2 key is there only to index,taper end is holding strenght on my ski's I always lap and apply lock tight red

    cd

  9. #9
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJE View Post
    i do that every time. I used loctite red however. my issue is my own stupidity...I appreciate the heads up however. Anyone have nice 4 degree keyways for sale? PM me.
    I'm not sure I understand the comment. I lap with lapping compound, put some on the crank snout, place the flywheel on and hold some pressure in while rotating back and forth. Remove it and look for the shiny spots those are the high points. A good test for fit is to clean the snout, use a sharpie (I like Red) and mark the entire tapered surface. Then take the flywheel and put it on snug, remove it and see where the marker has been removed, these are the high spots and all that is truely enagaging when you lock it on. The goal is to get the entire tapered surface to make contact.

  10. #10
    Prism's Avatar
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    In addition to the lapping as already suggested. I'd like to suggest something other than the red loctite for the crank snout. I've tried the red loctite and have also had problems until I used a product that is intended for the application. I now use sleeve retainer from permatex. I found it at Advance Autoparts. Their ad reads as follows: OEM specified. High temperature (up to 400ºF / 204ºC) anaerobic adhesive that secures slip and press fit assemblies. Adds up to 3,000 PSI holding power. Restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies. Prevents surface corrosion.

    Suggested Applications: Cylinder sleeves, valve guides, valve seats, bearings and bushings, woodruff keys, liner assemblies.

    I've used this on the snout and red loctite on the bolt and never had another problem.
    For the more adventuous I have another solution but you must be accurate!
    1.-Remove the stator cover and assembly.
    2-Before they are moved, mark each pickup somehow so you have a reference point.
    3.-Measure the outside diameter of the flywheel.
    4.-Multiply the diameter by Pi (3.14), this gives you the circumference.
    5.-Divide the circumference by 360 (number of degrees in a circle)
    6.-This gives you the distance between each degree.
    7.-After the distance between each degree is known, all that needs to be done is the pickup mounting holes need to be elongated so the pickups can be moved. For example, in step 6 say the distance is .004" and you want to advance the pickups 3 degrees, then 004" per degree times 3 degrees equals .012"
    8-To advance timing, the pickups need to be moved in the opposite direction of flywheel rotation. To retard timing, move with flywheel rotation.
    9-For reference, the pickup for cyl #1 has a Black and red wire, cyl#2 has Black and white, and cyl#3 has a Black and yellow.
    10-Some run flat compression across all cylinders (ease of machining or aftermarket heads) and just leave cyl#3 alone and advance the other 2. Same result just a different way to get there.
    11-With this method you can run any advance you want or even stagger it! Unless you ride at high altitude, I would not go much above 3 or 4 degrees advance. If you ride over 4000' however you may be able to use as much as 6 degrees of advance or more depending on your compression, fuel, and setup.
    Good luck with your ski.

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