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  1. #1

    bogging.............

    Took the 750sl out today. Bogging bad. No idle if you left off the throttle. I know this is the low end screws. won't get even fast enough to plane out. i'd say maybe 10mph. runs great on the trailer out of the water. The ground in my Ebox that attaches to the coil cover bar and the solenoid etc attach to it also was bad. It is the one that runs up around the front of the motor. So I tapped into it and run a ground strait to the block. Now it starts and runs, but does this bogging. Could that be one of my problems? What does that ground go to that rounds the front of the motor and goes back towards the starter (there is a whole bundle, not just the black ground).? It's just not hooking up. I'm about frustrated with this damn thing.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason71832 View Post
    ...The ground in my Ebox that attaches to the coil cover bar and the solenoid etc attach to it also was bad. It is the one that runs up around the front of the motor. So I tapped into it and run a ground strait to the block. Now it starts and runs, but does this bogging...

    What does that ground go to that rounds the front of the motor and goes back towards the starter (there is a whole bundle, not just the black ground)? ...
    That cable bundle goes to the magneto stator under the flywheel. It is actually part of the stator, and the wires go right to the stator coils.

    Was the black wire in that cable bundle burned and/or melted?
    That is a sign that the plastic cover for the battery was not installed, and the battery positive post then shorted to the electrical box casing.

    That black stator wire is critical to the operation of the ignition system, and it is the main ground link between the electrical box and the engine.

    If the black stator wire has burned out, you need to repair it, or replace the stator itself.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Doesn't even idle sounds like a carb or clog issue.

    First, is the autocock removed?

    Are the fuel lines the originals?

    How old or are the in-line filters clogged?

    Have the carbs been cleaned/rebuilt?

    Have you inspected the petcock?

    How about the fuel pick up inside the tank?

  4. #4
    black ground wire going to the stator was not burnt and it was fine last year so i'm guessing i may gave some corrosion somewhere from setting up over the off season. So since I just put a splice on that black wire and went strait to the block and it is not (apparently) grounded where it terminates at the stator could that be causing my bogging and how? The carbs are good, they came off another running machine, I think the low idle just needs adjusted is why it isn't idling. my main problem is the lack of power. BTW the jet pump seems to move freely and has no obstructions. All three plugs have spark but just looking at them it isn't a very bright spark, kinda faint.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason71832 View Post
    ...The ground in my Ebox that attaches to the coil cover bar and the solenoid etc attach to it also was bad...
    What year SL 750?

    Have you made sure evey item inside the electrical box that needs agood ground is actually grounded?

    The black ground wire for the CDI must be well grounded.

    Inside the stator, the connection to the engine block not only grounds the electrical box (through that black wire in the cable bundle), but it also internally grounds the Trigger coil (White/Yellow wire to CDI).

    Check the stator coil ohms.

    Magneto stator coils
    Red/Purple to Yellow: 0.6 ohms (Alternator coil - battery charging)
    Red/Purple or Yellow to Black: Infinite/open/no connection
    White/Yellow to Black: 220 ohms (Trigger coil)
    Blue/Red to Red/White: 90 ohms (Pulser coil)
    Red/White to Black: Infinite/open/no connection
    Red/White to Green/Red: 490 ohms (Exciter coil)

    More Fuji ignition checks here;
    How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Ignition coils on Fuji engines

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Carbs came off a running machine?

    How well was it running?

    Was it the same model and year? They are jetted differently.

    Have you set the carb adjustments to factory spec? Doesn't sound like it.

    Try cutting your plug wires back about 1/4" and resecure the plug boots.

    Make sure your plug gap is between 24-28 thousandths.

  7. #7
    Ok, it is a 95 model sl750. The carbs came off a running machine, same year. I have spark but my gap was at about .22 instead of 24-28 so I fixed that and trimed back my wires. What I was trying to explain earlier is that the black ground going from the ebox to the stator apparently wasn't grounded at the stator. The solenoid wouldn't click or anything and if you put a test light to it {the black ground} and pushed the starter button the ground would light up. SOOOO...I took a little wire tap and tapped that ground wire and ran the same guage wire to the block and grounded it. Now it will start and it runs good just puttering when you try to get up and go it don't. WOT the motor sounds very STEADY, but it won't rev high, i'd say 2500rpm or so (my MFD broke). Guys I REALLY don't want to pull everything down to the stator. If I'm getting spark yadda yadda the way it's set up, isn't that as good as the ground at the stator? Or could that ultimately be causing my bogging....what percent chance? I want some input before I move farther.

  8. #8
    oh and auto cock gone and no fuel line restrictions, clean water seperator, clean fuel.

  9. #9
    Maybe I should also add that at WOT as the engine is running steady but not high rpm applying the choke makes it die. I have moved past the stator issue and decided it must be a carb or fuel delivery problem. gonna check compression tomorow just to make sure, then I guess I'll check fuel pressure and make sure all my carbs are getting enough fuel. I will also check the settings and make sure they are to factory specs and haven't been jacked with.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jason71832 View Post
    ...my MFD broke

    ...I REALLY don't want to pull everything down to the stator. If I'm getting spark yadda yadda the way it's set up, isn't that as good as the ground at the stator?

    Or could that ultimately be causing my bogging...
    Unplug the MFD from the connector behind the MFD. Sometimes a bad MFD can cause weird problems with the ignition system.

    As explained earlier, the ground inside the stator is not just for the electrical box, it is also the ground for the stator itself. If the stator ground is not 100%, then the ignition system may not be able to function properly.

    As RPM rises, so does the demand for electrical power to the ignition system. The spark plugs are firing more often, the coils are generating more power, the ground connection is handling more current flow.

    Your bogging problem may or may not be related to the stator ground, but you have a known issue (burned ground wire). That makes the stator ground a more likely source of trouble.

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