Rapid Accelleration Open Loop Cooling Block Off

[Hydrotoys]

Received my Open Loop hardware from Dan.

High quality stuff here! Great craftsmanship. Polishes up nicely.

Also has a test-model in Clear or Black Lexan. Very light. Very trick.





Since this version was bare aluminum, I couldn't help myself and polished it up with some mothers aluminum polish.

[Shibby1485]

so do you leave the water pump impeller still intact, or you remove it?

[Muddy River]

If you two ever get together, I bet the innovation industry would be worried That looks great!

[rapidacceleration]

looks nice all shiney.

[Hydrotoys]

Shib,
I'd say you remove it...but this is all new to me. I'm not entirely sure what the access port on the reducer is for.

But it sure is shiny.

[mobbys]

Open Loop Cooling Block Off

I think that it is for restricting the amount of water, whit same screw in it

[Shibby1485]

yea at the moment it's not really making sense to me... you gotta tap the pump for a water supply line... you put this block-off plate on there...

what's the route of the loop? how are you getting water to both the oil cooler and the block? where is it pissing out?

the block-off plate is threaded, so i'm GUESSING a 1/2 NPT and water hose goes into there. the other piece goes on the head, clamps inside the stock 1" coolant hose?

[rapidacceleration]

you can leave the impelor on.

the routing Ive used on the last 2 project is

new fitting in the pump
threw ball valve
then strainer to
external intercooler
then to the oil cooler
oil cooler to blockoff plate
out head threw reducer
then out a standard 3/4 bilge fitting.

keep the factory lines for the exhaust.

the 1/8 npt in the reducer is for a autometer 60-210 temp gauge(optional) sensor.

[Hydrotoys]

Actually, now I'm more confused.

So you are making one big loop with single cooling, correct?

I'll have this seperated so that one loop is through the IC and one through the engine.

[Hydrotoys]

keep the factory lines for the exhaust.

The factory line for the exhaust comes off the IC... but you have that plumbed to the engine?

[RX951]

nice

you two are dangerous

excellent work

[Hydrotoys]

I hope we are not too dangerous. I love the work Dan has done. I hope to make this open loop setup work just as well as the thousands of open loop skis already on the water...or better.

We still need some anodes in the head, and block, and I'm not entirely sure having the impellor inside is good or bad.

The worst part of the cover, is that you can't see it once it's installed...

[Hydrotoys]

Okay,
so on the GPRXP, I'm going this way...

Intercooler/Exhaust Loop:

• 3/8" extra line off of pump.to the back of the transom-plate
• Then uses the stock RXP cooling hose to the intercooler.
• Then it goes to the exhaust using stock lines.
• Then it goes to a 1/2" dump at one place, and a 1/4" dump into the exhaust flange.

Engine Loop:

• 1/2" line at the main GPR pump.
• Inside the ski is a 5/8" line off the transom plate.
• Next it goes through an adjustable Ball Valve.
• Then to the oil cooler.
• Then from the oil cooler to the new blockoff plate.
• Then out the head.
• Then through the new reducer.
• Then out the GPR standard 3/4 bilge fitting at the back.
• I'll put the temp gauge Dan recommends.

Looks like there is room in the cavity where the new blockoff plate goes to fabricate some type of anode for the engine. One for the head can go up where the old air bleed used to be.

[Hydrotoys]

Dan,
is this 5/8"NPT or 3/4"NPT hole?

[Green Hulk]

you can leave the impelor on.

the routing Ive used on the last 2 project is

new fitting in the pump
threw ball valve
then strainer to
external intercooler
then to the oil cooler
oil cooler to blockoff plate
out head threw reducer
then out a standard 3/4 bilge fitting.

Daniel, you need to find a way to measure your oil temp. I think its going to run too cool when the water is routed this way. You want your oil at around 200-210 degrees.