Doo powered Kawasaki STX Build (STX-RXT-X)

[smokeysevin]

Waterbox mount is glued down with some cabosil thickened resin. I have some cleanup and reinforcement to do on the ends and underside but I am largely happy with it.

I ended up trimming more of it, what is left is functional if a little big still. I may trim back the edge closest to the driveshaft just to make it easier to install and remove the waterbox.

Then it is just a matter of raiding my stash of rubber straps and this one is done.

One issue I found once the epoxy had set, was that I had to pull the midpipe off the header to remove the waterbox, so rather than fight that anytime I needed to pull the box, I trimmed the midpipe down to 5-3/4" and it made it easier to remove. Its also basically flush with the outer coupler.

Last couple of pictures are the install sequence for the box. This will be easier once I get the mount finish trimmed.

I now get to repeat the same thing on the opposite side for the intercooler.

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Intercooler and exhaust are dry fit with 2.75" aluminum and high temp silicone hoses.

The exhaust used a 135 degree bend and a 45 degree bend with 1ft of 2.75" high temp coupler in 3 segments to connect the bends, waterbox, and outlet.

The intake used a 3" to 2.75" 90 degree reducer, a 90 degree bend, and a coupler to go from the intercooler to the throttle body. From the charger to the intercooler I used a 3" to 2.75" 45 degree reducer, a 45 degree bend, and a coupler.

Sean

[steve45]

[smokeysevin]

Bought a 3d printer, made some parts to index on the driveshaft and carbon seal hat to set the spacing and center the new thru hull tube.

Fatal flaw, if I were to glue the tube in with how it is made now, it would be permanent. I need to cut the halves in half perpindicular to the driveshaft axis between the hat and thru hull.

Proof of concept works though.

I need to pull the carbon seal and bellows off the shaft and play with how this works.

Sean

[beerdart]

Resin what model

Bought a 3d printer, made some parts to index on the driveshaft and carbon seal hat to set the spacing and center the new thru hull tube.

Fatal flaw, if I were to glue the tube in with how it is made now, it would be permanent. I need to cut the halves in half perpindicular to the driveshaft axis between the hat and thru hull.

Proof of concept works though.

I need to pull the carbon seal and bellows off the shaft and play with how this works.

Sean[ATTACH]490033[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490034[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490035[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490036[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490037[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490038[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490039[/ATTACH][ATTACH]490040[/ATTACH]

[smokeysevin]

Resin what model

Yep, creality halot one cl-60 got it for $129.

Printed surprisingly well with the canned settings right out of the box.

Sean

[beerdart]

Nice I have Elego Mars pro 2.

Yep, creality halot one cl-60 got it for $129.

Printed surprisingly well with the canned settings right out of the box.

Sean
[ATTACH]490045[/ATTACH]

[smokeysevin]

Nice I have Elego Mars pro 2.

I almost bought that one but microcenter had a deal on this one. I am thinking about making some x ski "inspired" throttle/start-stop housings but I am not sure if any of the resin is suitable for long term uv exposure.

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Proof of concept works but I need to sand the outside of the spacers just a tiny bit for make it viable to install and remove in the hull. I also need to split the front spacer as mentioned above.

The second set of supports for the rear of the tube came out fine, drilling and tapping this resin was interesting but I have a way to hold the halves together.

Hoping to carve out some time to work on it more over the weekend. I want y'all to check my math again on the spacer lengths before I glue it in for good.

Sean

[beerdart]

Threads print fine with resin.

[smokeysevin]

Threads print fine with resin.

I have not tried it, mostly because Inventor 23 doesn't have the option to auto generate physical threads like fusion does. I just didn't feel like messing with it.

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Finally glued in the carbon seal mount/thru hull tube. Its 316 stainless, 2-3/8" od tube. I did a few dry fits on it before cutting, then cut it short by about a quarter inch, womp womp.



I roughed up the outside of the bonding surface with a carbide burr, some 36 grit sandpaper, and a file before making a batch of thickened epoxy and assembling the stack of carbon seal hat, driveshaft, 3d printer spacers, and pump and slathering the gaps with the cabosil epoxy paste.



I did 4ish layers of cloth over the top. I just wanted to get the tube in place before pulling the assembly back apart and doing a full layup over the base structure.



There isn't great access to the front of the joint with the motor in and I really don't want this to pop off so I have more to do once the motor comes back out. I also got the alignment of the tube slightly off on the underside so I get to grind that back once the tube dries... yay... I need to do some finish work on the inside of the tunnel to tube joint anyways so I am not super concerned about the fitup there only that the tube stays where it is and doesn't leak like a fire hose.



The front motor mount needs to get its brace added to the bottom and the battery mount/tray welded to the front.

I also picked up a new mig welder that is aluminum capable so I may redo some of my plumbing now that I should have better luck on the tubes than before.

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Everything was set and hardened when I got up this morning so I popped out the inserts and checked float and standoff. I am happy with the float ~0.125" and the overall standoff from tube lip to hat ~1.96-1.84"





Just gotta knock the lip off the tunnel side and pack the gap with thickened epoxy and do another couple of layers on the inside of the hull. While doing that, I have some tunnel relief ports to add and some old thru hull fittings to plug in the pump tunnel area. I am going to try and pull the front motor mount and prep the battery brackets this week and reinforce the intercooler mount, waterbox mount, pump tunnel, and fill the holes this week. I want this thing buttoned up so I can pull the motor and do a rebuild/inspection before the summer is over.

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Battery mount, front motor mount, and fuse box mount fabricated and installed.The welds are kind of garbo but I am dialing in my new welder and using some kind of janky flux cored stainless wire that I have not run in years. I really just wanted to get this done so I can get working on other stuff and get more space in my garage. (No one will see this once it is installed and I trust you fine humans not to judge me too harshly for my laziness)

I removed the front motor mount adapter earlier this week and added a small frame made from 0.75" X 0.75" X 0.120 stainless angle to hold the battery. The spacing ended up working out pretty well because it just barely clears the stock Kawasaki fuel tank straps. The mounts were covered where the battery sits with some 5mm thick turf and some factory Kawasaki straps were used for battery tie downs. I also used a stock Yamaha strap mount for the retainer.
On the bottom side towards the motor, I added a 1/4" thick brace to the area adjacent to the motor mount bolts just to make sure it wouldn't bend under load. I may end up adding a pair of ribs to the battery sides of the battery bracket if I get nervous about it being cantilevered out like it is. For now, it feels really solid but we will see.

For the fuse box, I added a plate with some studs that bolts to the left hand side of the motor mount plate that allows the starter solenoid, fuse box, and relay box to bolt in place once the motor mount is in. I had to trim the rear of the factory doo mount slightly to clear the Kawasaki motor mount bolt but it mounts up nicely now and is out of the way. If I had not been distracted when working on the mount, I would have shifted the e box mount forward by about an inch as shown in the mock up picture but I got ahead of myself when fabbing and only realized the problem once I had already welded the studs in place.

As it sits now, the doo harness works with no modifications, I need to stick the other harness in and see where I want the regulator and ECU to mount, clearance to the intake manifold and hull is basically non-existent so I doubt I will be able to use the stock ecu bracket but we will see. I have a lot of minor glasswork to do and lots of cleanup. Then I want to run all the hoses and figure out how that routing will go before I blow the whole thing apart to prep for bilge paint and start working on the motor. I think I am going to plan for pump tunnel pressure relief fitting installation over the next few weeks and see where that takes me.


Bare mount with turf


Braces on the bottom and battery support


Assembly mocked up on the bench


Clearance spacing


Height and rib locations



E-Box hold down bracket


Bracket Location


Installed brackets


Installed assembly


Clearance and wiring

Sean

[smokeysevin]

Glued in my intercooler corner brace. I need to make an extension to connect the rear section as well but I was having trouble doing the layout with cardboard. It will be super fun to clean up since my cabosil spreading skills are garbo and all these corners are tight.










Sean