My GPRXP build

[John's truck]

Well so today I started the hull side wiring. Pulled the harness out and got it on the workbench and started stripping loom and tape. Once I had the Stator to rectifier wires isolated, I wrapped them in to their own leg.

[John's truck]

Then started separating our legs of the wiring harness. Got the one for ignition coils and cam angle sensor done up neatly. And I chopped all the Canbus twisted pairs out of the harness.

[John's truck]

Going to mount the fuel pump relay right on top of the fuse panel. I should be freeing up enough circuits (speedo/lake temp, diagnostic, gauge, beeper, stock fuel pump) that I should be able to run the bilge pump, fuel pump relay, wideband, and dash gauges off of the factory panel and eliminate the front sub-panel I put in last year. Oh and I’m replacing the DESS post with a kill switch

[John's truck]

I hate trailers. Put new LED lights on, pass side wouldn’t work. Double and triple checked my work. Finally figured out I’m not getting 12v at the vehicle side plug on the Jeep. Damnit. I greased the bearings and took the ski back to storage. I have that wiring harness on the workbench so I’ll work on that for a while. Like I said before, I should be able to remove the front fuse panel and run all the systems of the ski off the OEM fuse panel. The only thing I need to figure out is how to make sure the kill switch shuts down ignition/injector power and that the rectifier won’t keep it all powered.

[John's truck]

The harness coming down from the handlebars was pissing me off. It’s 2x 6 pin Deutsch connectors. Well, one is 5 wires with a. Blank. I’m not using a DESS post or a horn buzzer so that’s 6 pins right there I don’t need. Using a kill post so that’s 2 more I do. Math wise that’s 7. Not gonna work. I was banging my head on the ski until I said screw it and ordered an 8 pin Deutsch and I’ll swap the blank pin filler over from the factory connector. It’ll be a nice clean harness. So I’ll have

Start button (2 wires)
Kill lanyard (2 wires)
VTS (3 wires)
1 blanked

[John's truck]

ECU/manifold harness is finally complete.

One square is incoming 12v and grounds for ECU and Audi ignition
other square is incoming 12v for coils, injectors, Cam angle sensor
triangle is fuel pump relay, wideband input, tach output.

Next on the list is to finish the handlebar harness, then I can wrap up the fuse panel harness and be done. Hoping that will be this weekend.

[John's truck]

Got the 8 pin Duestch for the handlebar harness. Should be able to get this on tomorrow and make progress on the rest of the ski. I finally looked at the Microsquirt wiring diagram and realized how I need to wire the relays to the fuse panel. They’re using the fuel pump wire-not as a 12v output like I thought, but as a triggered ground for the relay. So when the kill switch post wakes up the main relay and the ECU, that in turn wakes up the fuel pump relay and all the injectors and coils. And when you use the kill switch to kill the ski, it also de-powers everything.

[John's truck]

Working on the harness legs today. Also trying to decipher the wiring diagram and figure out where I need to put the kill switch to make it interrupt the main relay

[John's truck]

Ok so I drew a fancy schematic. I believe I can de-pin the fuse panel and shuffle the jumper wires around to get what I need. And I’ll put the kill switch on the 12+ coil trigger side of both relays. Rewire the DESS/ECU to constant ground for the main relay. And wire the FP relay to be triggered by the MS

[John's truck]

Well the re-configuring of the small fuse/relay panel went fine. De-pinned and shifted a few. So trigger power for the main relay and fuel pump is controlled by the kill switch. Main relay gets constant ground. Fuel pump relay will have its ground triggered by MS. Oh and I put the throttle body on the manifold and found out I routed my TPS wires the wrong way on the manifold. Easy fix

[John's truck]

Working on the VTS legs of the harness. I’m pretty sure the brown/white and brown/black are trim position to the ECU and I don’t need them to operate VTS. I’m trying to remember back to 2 years ago when I was testing my VTS unit wjth jumper wires.

And I got the 7 pin handlebar harness leg started. This is gonna end up pretty clean once it’s wrapped

[John's truck]

Ordered more Tesa tape so I can finish wrapping the harness this weekend. And I’m debating what to do with the IAC. I’m not using it, so I’m considering blanking off the passage or building a threaded set-screw type fixed IAC

this one got posted by somebody running Motec

[John's truck]

Went over and did some work on the ski itself. I built the handlebar harness and wrapped it. And I deleted the front fuse panel. The speedo and wideband are going to get power through cables to the main harness and the main fuse panel. So it’s all cleaning up really well. I’m hoping to have the main harness done this weekend and hopefully get the fuse panel and intake manifold back in to the ski. My goal is to have the ski physically built before I move, then do all the TDC/timing/injector testing once I get set up in Louisiana

[John's truck]

Put a duestch connector on the GPS speedo and the factory Lake/speed connector on the wideband and covered it up with heat shrink/Tesa tape. It’s a lot cleaner now that there’s only 2 cables at the front of the ski and not an entire sub-panel with relay and fuses

[John's truck]

So I got more of the Tesa tape so I should be able to finish up the fuse panel harness. Only thing I’m undecided on is adding in a 12v outlet either in the storage bin or in the glove box, to charge a phone or the tablet for tuning.

oh and I did a thing. I decided because there’s no real “stop” button other than the kill switch lanyard, the old school “start stop” method of driving is going to suck ass at the dock and the trailer. So I’m going to put reverse on the ski. I already have the brackets for the Venturi, but I ordered an XLT reverse gate for $25. I’m going to use an XLT reverse cable up in to the hull and then probably a 12v linear actuator on a simple toggle switch, and mount it either next to the lanyard post or in the cowling hole