My GPRXP build

[smokeysevin]

Why not move to a kawasaki/yamaha dual button type setup for the start and stop function?

Sean

[John's truck]

I’m pretty dedicated to keeping the SeaDoo VTS switch box. I guess I’m just keeping a list of future mods to keep this project going forever. Wiring will be finished in the next 2 weeks and then fuel injectors, timing, and running/tuning will be fun this summer. But then looking forward from there, I’m thinking reverse and a schneider cam over next winter. After that, who knows

[John's truck]

Rebuilt the fuse panel, finished wrapping the wires, and added a 12v power outlet for the tablet and phine

[John's truck]

Here’s the finished harness. I need to put it in the ski, reinstall the intake manifold and hook everything up. Then power it up and make sure the ECU communicates with the laptop and all the sensors

[John's truck]

So I put the fuse, panel and wiring harness in the ski, intake manifold is back on, and all the connectors are connected. I hooked up the laptop to the ECU and put the battery on, the Microsquirt powered up immediately and the bilge pump started running. Then I put the Killswitch lanyard on the post, and it all turned off. So I checked Continuity across its terminals and sure enough, I bought the wrong type of Killswitch. I need one that’s normally open, and closed with the lanyard on. Other than that, it was good to see throttle position changed with squeezing the lever, coolant temp was sitting at room temperature. So basically I’m button it all up until I get to Louisiana.

[John's truck]

So I went back and looked at the ad for the kill switch when I bought it. Sure enough it says it’s for small outboards without electric start or fuel injection. So basically it’s for a 2 stroke and kills the engine by closing ignition to ground. I need the opposite kind, since I need to open the power leg to the main relay.

Looks like SOME killswitches can be taken apart and reversed. I’m not sure if this one can, but I’m going to try. Either way it’s useless working or broken. I’ll probably have to buy the correct one for like $15. This is a pretty stupid mistake but it’s a fairly small hurdle since SO FAR it’s the only thing wired wrong and keeping me from actually riding the ski. Other than testing injectors, setting timing, and then adjusting idle and tuning it. LOL

[John's truck]

Not the best sticker I’ve made but I didn’t want to forget how I wired up the fuse panel

[John's truck]

So I’ve already decided on the next improvement. I’m going to get a round 2” digital tach that matches the GPS speedo. I already wired tach output in the harness and I can power it from the same 3a fuse as the Speedo. I’ll shuffle it a little so the wideband is in the center (its trim ring is slightly larger). And here’s the next twist. I’ll 3D print it in a heat/UV tolerant plastic (PETG?) and incorporate sun-shades so the gauges are easier to read in the daylight. The current dash is 8” wide (203mm) which will fit on the build plate of my printer.

[John's truck]

Grabbed an STL for a gauge visor from Thingiverse and uploaded it to TinkerCad and started playing around. I plan on having the walls of all 3 visor pipes overlap a little for more rigidity. Center visit will be scaled up after I measure the OD of the wideband bezel.

[John's truck]

I’m going to recess the visors in to the panel so there isn’t a second lip. And I’ll put drain holes anywhere water can sit if it rains or gets splashed. Just need to measure out the GPR dashboard and then merge everything for the final STL. Well, and print it as a 1mm thick sheet to double check fitment before wasting all that filament

[John's truck]

Got the model just about done. Hopefully the printer survives the trip

[John's truck]

Well the trailer pulled like a champ, almost 1400 miles from Connecticut to Slidell, La. Ski is safe in its new garage home. Now I need to start thinking about designing a bracket (3D print Linq?) to attach the milk crate. It’s the perfect size for a VP racing gas can

[John's truck]

So in addition to the XLT bucket I bought on eBay, my buddy just gave me an entire FX HO Venturi with brackets and bucket. So I at least have 100% of the parts off the back of the ski, and can swap buckets to see what fits best. Still need a reverse cable and a 12v linear actuator… but I’ll start with drilling and tapping my gp1300r Venturi for the brackets and see how it all mounts up

[smokeysevin]

Can you use a doo vts actuator?

Sean

[John's truck]

Can you use a doo vts actuator?

Sean

I don’t know that VTS has enough range of motion. I’m using VTS for trim and I think it’s only about 2 inches. My understanding is the reverse cable needs to move 4”. There’s simple 12v linear actuators that would work pretty easily. Just need a DPDT switch to reverse polarity. I’ve got it all pretty much mapped out in my brain, just trying to figure out a good way to link a left hand finger throttle to an electric switch

The second pic is a screen grab from a YouTube video where a guy is doing this exact thing on a jet boat build. The bonus is that the linear actuators have internal limit switches so as long as you have the right sized one, You can just have the finger lever return to forward when you let off, and the actuator will stop pulling when it hits its internal stop.