My GPRXP build

[John's truck]

A break from the hard stuff, I tried replacing the old stock grips with some bike ones, turns out they bolt on using the special half circle thing. So I tried 3D printing my own ODI adapters. After all that, I didn’t like that setup so I said screw it and found OEM grips for like $21. And they have them with blue inner marks so they match the Yamaha fairings. They’re way nicer than the 15 year old ones I had on there before.

[John's truck]

Yeah, since I’m using the factory fuel rail, there’s no good way to make it a return fuel system. I’m not too worried about it being a dead head. Eventually I’ll get a billet fuel rail and redo the hoses, but I will probably be when I get around to doing the ethanol sensor also.

[bags50lx]

Do you have the regulator on the feed side of the fuel rail?

[John's truck]

Can’t do anything with the ECU, might as well do hardware stuff. Fuel filter is solidly mounted to a cutting board in the front cubby.

[John's truck]

Aaaand the battery died. Again. The other Yuasa I grabbed out of the 08 couldn’t turn the engine over this morning and showed 6v. That’s 2 Yuasa’s in 2 months. So now I need to buy 2 real batteries for my skis. And I was THIS CLOSE to checking ignition timing and doing a test start

[John's truck]

Had a big dummy moment. I’m trying to adjust my idle screw using MAP kpa. The signal wouldn’t change, no matter what. Turns out I got the signal and 5v supply wires backwards. Instead of chopping my harness to fix it, I de-pinned the sensor connector and switched wires 1+3. All good now. Just have to make sure I have the right scaling for the sensor (0v value and 5v value).

[John's truck]

Cut and switched some fuel hoses, so now the regulator is fed from the other side, it exits and goes to the fuel filter (now up in the front of the ski) and then the long line runs down the starboard side of the ski. I checked for leaks, it’s good now.

I guess the wiring and fuel lines are done (for now). Really I just need to make sure my base map is solid and then check base timing again, and then make sure my idler is adjusted for the right vacuum, and then try starting it

[John's truck]

And then there’s the setback. Fired up the ECU and it built fuel pressure and… Leaky fuel fitting. At least it gave me an excuse to soap the bilge

[John's truck]

And here we go, connectors in, grounds spliced, harness wrapped. I need to throw the battery in it and fire the ECU up and start hacking the matrix (putting in the voltage/dwell table for the GTR coils)

[John's truck]

Started working on the harness, made it pretty far. I deleted the Audi module and used the full length of the Microsquirt harness wires to reach the ignition coils. And I added in the grounds and made it all the way to where I need to splice the grounds but I’ll do that tomorrow.

If anyone’s curious, no, SeaDoo terminals do not pin in to Nissan connectors. I had to chop them off and crimp on the ones that came with the kit. If you’re going from old 4tec coils to 300 style, then yes you can just de-pin and click them in. Going to GTR? Nope. It’s easy enough though.

[John's truck]

And the 10 micron fuel filter got here today, so I have another project. Gotta figure out where to add it. I think I’m just going to fit the filter, and later on get the fuel rail and ethanol sensor and redo the routing.

[John's truck]

Well I finally got 3 of the coils, test fit them all. And I have the electrical connectors so I need to rebuild my wiring harness and delete the Audi module.

[John's truck]

So while I’m waiting on ignition parts and connectors to arrive, I’m thinking about the fuel system. Namely a location for the fuel filter. Then I got to thinking how much better everything would be if I had a billet fuel rail with the regulator mounted to the exit of the rail. So, that’s probably going to be the next improvement. I’ll mount the fuel filter (and maybe an ethanol content sensor) up front where the reg is now. It will flow to the back of the engine, go in the rail, and then the pressure reg and return to the tank. Or maybe the ethanol sensor will be on the return. Either way it will be streamlined. Now, I have something kinda crazy up my sleeve for the fuel rail. Because I’m cheap. If it works, I’ll post it here. If not, the fuel system is staying the way it is.

[John's truck]

Nice, how do the plug seals look on the valve cover/head area?

Sean

So it doesn’t overhang like the Toyota seal or the old 4tec skirt. It’s just slightly larger diameter and soft rubber or silicone or something that you’re forcing in to the hole in the valve cover. I guess I kinda would have preferred overhang, but I don’t really see how water would get past this either.

if you try to force the coil down too far, it will get stuck on the spark plug (even with dielectric grease) and when you try to remove it, the stalk will separate from the igniter. So then, don’t use pliers, you’ll rip the seal skirt just take the valve cover off, take the spark plug tube out, and then use a screw driver to pry the stalk off the spark plug. Which is why the spacer bracket is necessary, keeps me from pushing the coils down too far like a Neanderthal

[smokeysevin]

Nice, how do the plug seals look on the valve cover/head area?

Sean