GPRXP gauge installation.

[Hydrotoys]

• To install the BRP gauge in the Yamaha cowling takes some patience, and a dremel tool with a cylindrical grinding device.
• Remove the cowling and take the GPR gauge out. You won't use any of the gauge parts.

1. Take the rubber grommet from the RXP and trace out the shape on the cowling with a sharpie marker.
2. The top of the gauge trace should be at the very top edge of the hole from the gpr gauge. The RXP gauge is larger, so you will be using almost all the room possible.
3. Cut the top first. Get it as clean and neat as possible.
4. Next cut the bottom gradually, until the gauge will fall into place. DO NOT FORCE IT.
5. Once it falls into place, install the rubber grommet.
6. Attempt to install the gauge. You may have to trim a little more, but it should slip in. Once again, do not force it.

Fitting the new Gauge, and cowling back on the GPR:

1. Lay the completed assembly onto the top deck of the GPR. You will see that there is an interference between the bottom of the gauge, and the top deck of the GPR.
2. Mark the area with a sharpie pen.
3. Take a 3" grinder, and grind the marked area until it is PAPER thin.
4. Fill in from behind with marine tex, if you go all the way through.
5. Be careful, not to punch a big hole out. Once it's paperthin, the gauge and cowling should just clear the top deck.
6. Primer and Paint afterwards.

Wiring.

1. You will have two wiring harnesses on the top deck. One goes to the gauges. Just run that wiring harness straight down the wiring harness hole on the top deck and hook up.
2. The temp gauge is on this line too. Just zip tie it to the wiring.
3. If you have any bilge switches, or other gauges, this is the best hole for the job.
4. The other harness is the beeper/handlebar/lanyard harness.
5. The beeper can go in the same bracket as the Yamaha one.
6. We ran the lanyard switch to either the stock pad or the glove compartment door.
7. The handlebar wiring just goes under and up through the big hole.

[Insanediego Joe]

IMO, this was one of the most time consuming adaptations of the conversion ski.

[RX951]

sweet! Thanks mark!

[JFizzleJR]

3. Next cut the bottom gradually, until the gauge will fall into place. DO NOT FORCE IT.

JacRae and I found today that it's cleaner (and possibly easier) to ground down the bottom of the original gauge hole BELOW where it meets the plastic cowl instead of grinding past the upper line. Grinding down the plastic cowl transition to a smooth plane ensures a nice fluent angle and less grinding of the area shown in the first picture. This leads to potentially less mess, less work (no need for marinetex reinforcement) and little to zero chance of punching a hole through the hull.

Pictures are coming soon to the JFizzleJR's GPRXP thread. I don't think we got any of the ground down areas that I'm talking about, but we atleast have a picture of the gauges fitting in smooth and snug by using this method. I circled the areas in your pictures that I'm talking about. I'm not sure if you already use this method and inferred this in your instructions. If not, I hope this helps for future reference.

IMO, this was one of the most time consuming adaptations of the conversion ski.

The rest must be a breeze because this didn't take very long
We also found that a sanding drum is a VERY good tool to use on this piece of the project.

[addicted]

Has anyone tried installing the gauges without the grommet?

[addicted]

never mind.

[Hydrotoys]

JacRae and I found today that it's cleaner (and possibly easier) to ground down the bottom of the original gauge hole BELOW where it meets the plastic cowl instead of grinding past the upper line. Grinding down the plastic cowl transition to a smooth plane ensures a nice fluent angle and less grinding of the area shown in the first picture. This leads to potentially less mess, less work (no need for marinetex reinforcement) and little to zero chance of punching a hole through the hull.

Pictures are coming soon to the JFizzleJR's GPRXP thread. I don't think we got any of the ground down areas that I'm talking about, but we atleast have a picture of the gauges fitting in smooth and snug by using this method. I circled the areas in your pictures that I'm talking about. I'm not sure if you already use this method and inferred this in your instructions. If not, I hope this helps for future reference.



The rest must be a breeze because this didn't take very long
We also found that a sanding drum is a VERY good tool to use on this piece of the project.

You lost me. If you grind LOWER on the dash, won't the gauge sit LOWER, making it hit the top deck even worse? Pictures would help. Here is the interference I ran into, again for reference.

[JFizzleJR]

We ground down the piece right in front of the bottom of the gauges so the rear of the gauges would not angle down so steep when installed. That made more clearance from the spot you marked.. Hope this makes sense.. I will try to take a pic if I can remember to. I don't think it's anything ground breaking, but it allowed us to grind plastic a little more and the hull a little less.

[Hydrotoys]

Oh I gotcha now.

No, I like them facing upwards as much as possible. They are already hard to see over the bars. Facing a little downward doesn't interest me. Grinding the top deck, putting a little marine tex and paint is simple and keeps the gauge facing upwards.


That is what makes them all a little unique.