GPRXP and salt water preperation.

[Hydrotoys]

This is an ongoing document, as we learn what has changed from either the stock gpr or the stock rxp. Big thanks to Insanediego Joe for providing the test mule. He does the most salt riding to date, that I know of.

The idea here is to identify possible corrosion areas, and as a group determine fixes. If you are inland, and only go to the ocean once in a blue moon, this really doesn't apply to you.

Possible problem areas:

• Engine and Head
• Engine Water Pump
• Pump and related hardware
• Rideplate
• Shoe and plate inserts
• Exhaust
• Turbo
• Intercooler
• Oil Cooler
• Engine mounts
• Electronics

[seadoo951]

I ride in salt water all the time and my rideplate/pump area doesnt even have the slightest corrosion or oxidation on it. I just wash the whole ski, with some soapy water and have never had any issues. With the open loop plate, if you just let water drain out of that pisser on the bottom, do you still need to seal off the waterpump shaft (impeller already removed)? I was thinking since you are going to pass fresh water through there anyway, it would wash out almost all of the salt. Maybe run some salt-away thorough the system every 10 hours or so?

[Hydrotoys]

Well,
we need to hear from folks who ARE having corrosion issues specifically with the GPRXP. If your GPRXP is working fine, then don't worry about it. Maybe it's immune to the salt for some reason we don't understand.

• The first thing we are seeing is a degredation of the rideplate inserts. They are litteraly seizing to the rideplate bolts. Working on a fix for that now. I think I understand it, but need to get a couple of dvm's in there and look for some voltages in that area. I think it's actually from the pump!!!
• 2nd, we are seeing rust on the water pump shaft. GP1500 has a very simple solution, that we'll incorporate with a grease fitting. I think I'll eventually have a new style cover made since this one really needs a lot of work to make it work.
• We seen rusting on the original engine mounts that were made of regular steel. I powdercoated them, but a minor little scratch, and bammm here comes the rust. The 304L and the 316L took care of that. If you have regular metal mounts, then I suggest you get somebody local to you to make them out of 304 or 316.
• If you have a Riva intercooler, use it as a door stop. The XScooler with the anode seems to be working well. Joe says the anode is wearing nicely. Jerry says the Rotax racing is very well protected for salt water and is a good candidate.

[seadoo951]

With the open loop plate, what is the deal with that little fitting on the bottom? Can you just run that drain to the little pisser fitting supplied with the plate instead of blocking this area off?

[Hydrotoys]

Talk to Dan Rapid Acceleration about that. It does nothing for me.

[addicted]

After heaing this from Joe the other day, I think all you guys need is a SS ground strap from the ride plate to the pump, and have an anode on the pump. With the solid driveshaft, the engine is no longer insulated from the water. Now the pump and engine are a cathode, the salt water is the electrolyte, and the ride plate is the anode. My outboards have small braided ss cable to connect the parts together so that the continuity remains even when parts are insulated by rubber and what not.

[Hydrotoys]

Correct, except I'm looking at isolating the plate, not connecting it. If we connect it, that still leaves the softest metal vunerable. Instead, I'd rather give the salt-gods something softer to chew on.

Anode on the plate: Just like SeaDoo did.
Anode on the pump: Just like Seadoo did.
Powder coat or paint the top of the rideplate for even more isolation.
Anode on both the engine and head and ic. The shoe is tricky, but I'm not sure it's a problem since it's encapsulated both above and below.

[addicted]

Softest metal would be the anode, no?

[Hydrotoys]

Yup. There is a reason SD put the anode on the plates and pump. It's on the back right hand corner.

SST and aluminum is probably the biggest cause, and the proximity to the plate is just a paper width. Isolate as many places as possible and provide soft metal at those places.

[Autosport]

The first thing we are seeing is a degredation of the rideplate inserts. They are litteraly seizing to the rideplate bolts. Working on a fix for that now. I think I understand it, but need to get a couple of dvm's in there and look for some voltages in that area. I think it's actually from the pump!!!

So, let me get this right, as I'm a little confused, This is a problem only on the conversion ski's (ie: not a problem on the factory 2 stroke engines?)?

On all my bolts under the ski I've always used grease on all the threads to help prevent corrosion and has always seems to work (I ride salt 90% of the time).. but haven't got a GPRXP (yet).

[Hydrotoys]

The driveshaft on the GPRXP electrically connects the pump to the engine. Just like a seadoo. You will see more sst SD driveshafts in boats with rust than the rubber coupler Yami cousins, due to this.

2strk setup shouldn't be an issue, or just find a way to use that coupler.

[addicted]

Mark, after thinking about it some more, the SD pump, engine and plate are all connected electrically. . . through the coolant. I remember being shocked by a battery for the first time standing next to BDNJ's ski in salt water. I say put the anode on the pump and plate, and wire the 2 together. The anodes will do there job

I am working on an adaptor that uses the yammi coupler.

[Hydrotoys]

Isolation is how the marine shops do it. That's what I'm following.

[YamahaToys]

Does anyone have any pictures of all the salt water preparation that is done to these conversions? I would like to see different options.

I don't ride in true salt water, however sometimes our riding areas will get brackish with certain tides.

[RX951]

Here is the zinc anode on my open loop plate.