GPRXP and salt water preperation.

[F.O.R.C.E.]

GPRXP and salt water preperation

OP havent been in your shoes but think about it a lot and I would be freaking out too. I am still processing not having another but like you have adjusted my thinking to all the positives of not having another.How long is your DH away for? Also wow re your wedding anniversary.

[Hydrotoys]

2006 and beyond boats.

[OsideBill]

how about the anode they use on the yami jet boat? mounts to the outlet nozzle, where the revers bucket would go on anXLT. See part #50 in the pic, there is also one that mounts in the intake grate

[SHOdude]

There are a lot of GPRXP (and a few GPR/SHO) conversions down here in Miami and most of them ride in salt 99% of the time. Too bad we don't have the opportunity to learn about their builds much less have the feedback from them on this issue.

[RX951]

Here is the zinc anode on my open loop plate.

[YamahaToys]

Does anyone have any pictures of all the salt water preparation that is done to these conversions? I would like to see different options.

I don't ride in true salt water, however sometimes our riding areas will get brackish with certain tides.

[Hydrotoys]

Isolation is how the marine shops do it. That's what I'm following.

[addicted]

Mark, after thinking about it some more, the SD pump, engine and plate are all connected electrically. . . through the coolant. I remember being shocked by a battery for the first time standing next to BDNJ's ski in salt water. I say put the anode on the pump and plate, and wire the 2 together. The anodes will do there job

I am working on an adaptor that uses the yammi coupler.

[Hydrotoys]

The driveshaft on the GPRXP electrically connects the pump to the engine. Just like a seadoo. You will see more sst SD driveshafts in boats with rust than the rubber coupler Yami cousins, due to this.

2strk setup shouldn't be an issue, or just find a way to use that coupler.

[Autosport]

The first thing we are seeing is a degredation of the rideplate inserts. They are litteraly seizing to the rideplate bolts. Working on a fix for that now. I think I understand it, but need to get a couple of dvm's in there and look for some voltages in that area. I think it's actually from the pump!!!

So, let me get this right, as I'm a little confused, This is a problem only on the conversion ski's (ie: not a problem on the factory 2 stroke engines?)?

On all my bolts under the ski I've always used grease on all the threads to help prevent corrosion and has always seems to work (I ride salt 90% of the time).. but haven't got a GPRXP (yet).

[Hydrotoys]

Yup. There is a reason SD put the anode on the plates and pump. It's on the back right hand corner.

SST and aluminum is probably the biggest cause, and the proximity to the plate is just a paper width. Isolate as many places as possible and provide soft metal at those places.

[addicted]

Softest metal would be the anode, no?

[Hydrotoys]

Correct, except I'm looking at isolating the plate, not connecting it. If we connect it, that still leaves the softest metal vunerable. Instead, I'd rather give the salt-gods something softer to chew on.

Anode on the plate: Just like SeaDoo did.
Anode on the pump: Just like Seadoo did.
Powder coat or paint the top of the rideplate for even more isolation.
Anode on both the engine and head and ic. The shoe is tricky, but I'm not sure it's a problem since it's encapsulated both above and below.

[addicted]

After heaing this from Joe the other day, I think all you guys need is a SS ground strap from the ride plate to the pump, and have an anode on the pump. With the solid driveshaft, the engine is no longer insulated from the water. Now the pump and engine are a cathode, the salt water is the electrolyte, and the ride plate is the anode. My outboards have small braided ss cable to connect the parts together so that the continuity remains even when parts are insulated by rubber and what not.

[Hydrotoys]

Talk to Dan Rapid Acceleration about that. It does nothing for me.