I posted this in my personal build thread... figured I'd post it here as well...
I took a different approach to alignment of the rotax powerplant within the GPR Hull. I'll try to explain my rationale, however right or wrong, as best I can... I don't mean to imply those before me have done it wrong, because it has proven to work!! I just think this way is better and more accurate. probably me being overkill and too anal as i tend to be... naturally, the driveline is quite forgiving inside the crank snout alone with the crowned splines on the pto side of the 4-tec shafts and conversion shafts.
My alignment procedure was made possible by Jason (hydrojunkie) and his RXP pump adapter plate... well that and thru my easy access to a seadoo alignment tool... By bolting his conversion adapter onto the GPR transom plate, i was able to have a 4-tec bolt pattern to then install the seadoo alignment tool.


This helped in two ways

I took a different approach to alignment of the rotax powerplant within the GPR Hull. I'll try to explain my rationale, however right or wrong, as best I can... I don't mean to imply those before me have done it wrong, because it has proven to work!! I just think this way is better and more accurate. probably me being overkill and too anal as i tend to be... naturally, the driveline is quite forgiving inside the crank snout alone with the crowned splines on the pto side of the 4-tec shafts and conversion shafts.
My alignment procedure was made possible by Jason (hydrojunkie) and his RXP pump adapter plate... well that and thru my easy access to a seadoo alignment tool... By bolting his conversion adapter onto the GPR transom plate, i was able to have a 4-tec bolt pattern to then install the seadoo alignment tool.


This helped in two ways
- i was able to verify proper alignment of my GPR transom plate by leaving the alignment tool rather far out the rear and taking MULTIPLE reference points to ensure the distances were equal (ie measure from sponson blade to rod and other sponson blade to rod. measure from drain plug hole to rod and other drain plug hole to rod. measure from corner of hull to rod and other corner of hull to rod. there's infinite places to use as reference points to ensure the transom plate is in there totally square and center.
- secondly, i was able to put the alignment pin insde the crank snout and then slide the rod thru the tunnel and play with the motor mounts and shims until the rod slid in like BUTTER. the rod slides into the pin a good 1.5 inches, so if u can slide it all the way in and out without any binding ur PERFECT.
for example, you can get the rod to slide into the pin perfectly just so it starts to go in and bam, your aligned up down left right... BUT, that doesn't mean you are aligned thru the whole axis. the tool may slide in the first 1/4" easy, and then slope up from there and start binding as it goes further into the crank. My method covers every possible angle i feel. you could spend HOURS trying to be absolutely mental about alignment, or you can get it damnnn close and call it quits.


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