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Basically, I just used a torch to heat up the upper lip of the gauge pod, and bent it upward, and into 2 humps to match the SeaDoo gauge outline.
Below: Greater Detail & Directions/Story/Advice
So, I didn't want to go through all the ordeal of grinding (I avoid fiberglass grinding/dust at all costs) & cutting the into the hull to allow the RXP gauges to fit in the GPR. So I thought about it for a while, and had an idea. I figured, why cant I just heat the center console, and bend it open a bit more. So I had a broken GPR center console that I didn't care to waste, and started to try to melt it to get the gauges to fit. It worked fairly easily, and looked decent, so I did it on my "permanent" GPR center console.
See the pics below. In the pics, it shows a gap at the bottom of the gauge when looking from the side. This had slipped out since I had the gauge out, to take pictures of the hole. This DOES mount flush, I just had to push on it, and it clicked back into place and was flush at the bottom.
I used a torch, as a heat gun didn't get it hot enough. It may work if u have more patients than me, but I moved to using a torch. Be very careful when working with the torch, and make the flame only about 1-1.5" long, dont let the blue part of the flame touch the lastic, hold about an inch away from the end of the flame best u can see. Be VERY careful! I learned with the first one this plastic blisters very easily, and will look really shitty if u burn it up trying to do this. There is a fine point at which the plastic is hot enough to be pliable, but not so hot, that the plastic blisters, and it melts to goo, and looks bad. You want it to be as rigid as possible, but just pliable enough to be bendable, in that crease area. You don't want the bake the entire center console or it will loose its shape, and turn to goo. over bend it just a bit, as it will tend to creep back to its original form when cooled. After you get it bent like u want, run it under cold water to turn it back solid and cool it down so it can be handled. If anyone else does it this way, I advise to heat the inside and outside evenly to warm it up, then bake the underside right at the crease, until it DOES start to blister, then swipe the torch over the top side a few times, and you should be able to easily make 2 humps, and the gauges should fit right in! I had to re-bend mine 3-4 times to get the fitment close enough to suit me. Still looks a little ghetto for my tastes, but its covered up, and saved MASSIVE time, so I'm just going to leave it as is for now. Be sure to leave level flat, non-rounded cut when trimming the bottom. If you go too far down, it wont be a flat edge, and the gauges could push through.
Changes I would make in retrospect: I would use something other than my hand to round off the top of the console, A soda or paint can should work well, or anything close to the diameter of the gauges obviously.
Basically, I just used a torch to heat up the upper lip of the gauge pod, and bent it upward, and into 2 humps to match the SeaDoo gauge outline.
Below: Greater Detail & Directions/Story/Advice
So, I didn't want to go through all the ordeal of grinding (I avoid fiberglass grinding/dust at all costs) & cutting the into the hull to allow the RXP gauges to fit in the GPR. So I thought about it for a while, and had an idea. I figured, why cant I just heat the center console, and bend it open a bit more. So I had a broken GPR center console that I didn't care to waste, and started to try to melt it to get the gauges to fit. It worked fairly easily, and looked decent, so I did it on my "permanent" GPR center console.
See the pics below. In the pics, it shows a gap at the bottom of the gauge when looking from the side. This had slipped out since I had the gauge out, to take pictures of the hole. This DOES mount flush, I just had to push on it, and it clicked back into place and was flush at the bottom.
I used a torch, as a heat gun didn't get it hot enough. It may work if u have more patients than me, but I moved to using a torch. Be very careful when working with the torch, and make the flame only about 1-1.5" long, dont let the blue part of the flame touch the lastic, hold about an inch away from the end of the flame best u can see. Be VERY careful! I learned with the first one this plastic blisters very easily, and will look really shitty if u burn it up trying to do this. There is a fine point at which the plastic is hot enough to be pliable, but not so hot, that the plastic blisters, and it melts to goo, and looks bad. You want it to be as rigid as possible, but just pliable enough to be bendable, in that crease area. You don't want the bake the entire center console or it will loose its shape, and turn to goo. over bend it just a bit, as it will tend to creep back to its original form when cooled. After you get it bent like u want, run it under cold water to turn it back solid and cool it down so it can be handled. If anyone else does it this way, I advise to heat the inside and outside evenly to warm it up, then bake the underside right at the crease, until it DOES start to blister, then swipe the torch over the top side a few times, and you should be able to easily make 2 humps, and the gauges should fit right in! I had to re-bend mine 3-4 times to get the fitment close enough to suit me. Still looks a little ghetto for my tastes, but its covered up, and saved MASSIVE time, so I'm just going to leave it as is for now. Be sure to leave level flat, non-rounded cut when trimming the bottom. If you go too far down, it wont be a flat edge, and the gauges could push through.
Changes I would make in retrospect: I would use something other than my hand to round off the top of the console, A soda or paint can should work well, or anything close to the diameter of the gauges obviously.
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