Crank but no start - 08 STX 15F

[Droopy]

I just replaced the bearing housing and now she just cranks and doesn't start or even a little hint of starting.

Only disconnected 4 wire connectors and raise engine about 4-5 inches enough space to get drive shaft and coupler out.

Tests I've done so far:
- fuel pressure good
- Spark in all leads except on cylinder 1 wire was bad and replaced
- Tested resistance on all other plug wires, good
- Tested resistance on both ignition coils, good
- Power to coils, good

Any one have any other ideas???

[Droopy]

Test update:

- All Fuel injectors are getting signal
Now testing for the following I can't do properly because of my cheap voltmeter
- Crank shaft sensor, from what I gather is good but I don't have a peak voltage adapter
- Cam shaft sensor, same as above

Running out of Ideas

[meangreenman]

Is there any code flashing on the dash when the engine doesn't start?
What's the fuel pump pressure?
If you have access to Kawi's KDS softeare and cable, it would be a lot easier to diagnose.

[Droopy]

Only battery light flashing but once I plug my charger it stops.
Can't remember the fuel pressure but it was at were the service manual stated it should be at.

Question to any one reading this I removed the cylinder one wire and plugged in a spark plug to check if it sparks and it does but the spark is amber in color not blue.
Sorry but I'm a car mechanic and mostly all cars spark in blue not amber so If i'm correct in thinking that it should be blue that would mean the coils are bad.
If any one has a 15f/12f/ultra lx and is will to verify this for me please

[Dezl_Dr]

Put a little gas in the plug holes and crank it. If it runs for a couple seconds then it's. It the coils.

[meangreenman]

Put a little gas in the plug holes and crank it.

Be careful doing that or don't do it. Last time when someone did that on a 15F, it went "boom" and blew out the intake air box.

How is the cranking speed, is it as fast as normal and consistent?

I will re-confirm the circuit/connections at:
1. cam postion sensor
2. crankshaft position sensor
3. Ignition coils (2)

[Dezl_Dr]

A little gas in the cylinders can't hurt anything. That's why I didn't say pour some gas in the air intake. For it to back fire the intake valve would have to be open when the cylinder fired.

It seems he doesn't have many tools to trouble shoot with, just trying to keep it simple and narrow down whats wrong.

[eel]

Dezl is possibly on to something here.


I have had bad oil temp sensors causing the engine to be too lean to cold start.

KDS shows this up.

[Droopy]

Ok here is what I have done:
I re-checked those connections and also cleaned with electric contact cleaner, good
I removed cylinder 1 spark plug pour some gas in and re-connected plug and wire, same just cranks. (No Boom!!!)

Re-checked for the amber spark on the plug and now I get no spark.
So I rechecked power to coils and yes we have power.
So I'm leaning towards faulty coils.

Unless their is something that I'm missing that can cut off power to the plugs.

[Dezl_Dr]

The odds of both coils going bad at the same time is very slim. They are controlled with some type of module. I have never looked at how kaw does it but you have sensors that read the engine position and the ECM normally sends the signal to some type control with then sends power and breaks power to the coils. Having power to them doesn't mean much, the control side normally is on the ground side.

But since I don't have a manual I can't tell you what to look for but I can say, I'd not rush out a buy coils.

It might be all built into the ecm, you need a manual. Download one and it should have all the info you need. If it were a car I'd guess cam or crank sensor.

[Droopy]

LOL,I was leaning towards the same thing at first but now that I et no spark feel its gotta be the coils.

The sensor your talking about isn't the turn over sensor thats attached to the same bracket as the coils?

Also too late I dove in head first and ordered a pair of coils and plug wires from Ebay, oops impulse.

If anything I will keep them as extra parts for potential furture problems which i hope i won't have to deal with

[Dezl_Dr]

I hope it fixes the problem, if not I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram and help you out.

[Droopy]

I have the service manual and followed the diagram.
It also has a trouble shooting section which I followed and have narrowed it down to either the crank sensor or the cam sensor.
I ordered a Fluke digital multimeter so I can properly test them. My GE Instrument analog multimeter isn't really helping out.

I will post the results once I get the multimeter which should be next week.
So stand by all and thanks alot for all the info so far its great to get ideas and feed back from everyone.
I love this forum.

[Dezl_Dr]

A good Fluke meter is worth every penny they cost. I've had a Fluke 87 for years, works perfect every time.

[meangreenman]

Getting a cam position sensor error (engine cranking only) is common after engine has been out & in for some major repair. But in your case the engine was not really out, but just pushed up a bit. Another difference is that you are not getting any faulut code on the dash meter - typically CAA9 when you go into the dealer mode.
I would double check the cam sensor, wiring, connectors, ohm reading (pg 14-43), etc. The sensor is mounted at the end of the cyl head (#4).