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Crank but no start - 08 STX 15F

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  • #16
    Yea I found cam sensor and tested it but according to the service manual you need a peak voltage adapter.
    I tried to test it with my analog volt meter and blew the fuse so either I'm using it wrong or its just cheap.
    So to prevent any errors thats why I ordered the Fluke 15B multimeter with the autoranging, will be easier to verify if its within range.

    Don't get any codes except for the battery light but that goes away once I have my charger on it. I will have to get a battery too because I think its gone too.

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    • #17
      yea TPS is connected and the roll over switch is or seems ok. I got a new fuse and tried it out, still dont believe its readings to be 100% ima wait for the new multimeter. Also according to the troubleshooting diagram it doesn't show or ask about the tps or roll over sensor to be tested for a no signal to ignition coil problem.

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      • #18
        OK just received the multi meter, its sweet too.
        Crank sensor should be between 400-600 ohms its at 529 ohms, so its ok.
        Cam shaft sensor should be berween 400-460 ohms its at 431 ohms, so its ok too.
        Based on that I'm now leaning towards the engine control module or computer.
        Cause i'm getting no signal to coils or injectors.
        Will also check the tps make sure thats within range too.

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        • #19
          I would be going over everything again and make sure your battery is charged over 13v and also make sure the plugs dont make any greas on them... Good luck champ

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          • #20
            ok all havent really been working on ski as the holidays birthdays etc.
            Funds were low as well as time
            So here is what I have found the ISC was out of range so I ordered a new one.
            Now the bike cranks like before but tries to start now before it was just cranking nothing else.
            It started twice 2 different days but did start but would die right down in less than a min.
            Not sure what else to look into.
            Crank sensor still within range
            Cam sensor still within range
            Plugs sparking
            Injectors firing
            Timing chain still tight and spinning
            Is it possible that the sequence or timing of the ignition spark with injectors be off? is so how do i test or inspect that?

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            • #21
              Just tested the fuel pressure and its at 45psi while cranking not idling.
              Replaced the fuel filter just in case.
              I had to rig my compression tester to work as a fuel pressure tester but it shows that it is pumping and at the right psi service manual says it should be at 43psi.

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              • #22
                So i just rechecked the cylinder compression and this is what i found
                It should be at 172 - 260psi
                Cylinder 1 at 60psi
                Cylinder 2 at 80psi
                Cylinder 3 at 75psi
                Cylinder 4 at 90psi
                So i have a compression problem. Pistons, piston rings or cylinder head valves, wow what a job I have ahead of me.

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                • #23
                  how did you check compression?

                  Sean
                  The older I get, the more I find myself fixing things that I knew I was doing correctly at the time.

                  Ski not running well? Check HERE!

                  1987 JS550 - JankyStandup
                  2004 STX NAsty15f

                  2004 STX-RXT-X Conversion
                  2001 Toyota Tundra Basketcase

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I used a compression tester. the same one I rigged as a fuel pressure tester, LOL. it was a cheap compression tester.
                    I also doubted my compression tester so I used a friends snap-on one and used my M10 adapter to his and it tested the same.
                    The only thing I didnt do is a leak down test.
                    I now have the engine out and apart as all the parts just came in from Riva.
                    The piston and rings look fine but I hinestly never seen bad piston rings.
                    I might order the valve seals and do those at the same time just as a precaution. Does anyone know if its hard to replace again I've never replaced or did any cylinder head work before.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by sirbreaksalot
                      did u have the throttle full open

                      you need to do a leakdown BEFORE you pull it apart to know if you are chasing a bottom or top end problem

                      I see circles on the horizon

                      Waz
                      That is what I was getting at, It is unlikely that all 4 cylinders would be that low.

                      Sean
                      The older I get, the more I find myself fixing things that I knew I was doing correctly at the time.

                      Ski not running well? Check HERE!

                      1987 JS550 - JankyStandup
                      2004 STX NAsty15f

                      2004 STX-RXT-X Conversion
                      2001 Toyota Tundra Basketcase

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Did your "M10 adapter " have a check valve installed in it. Any volume between the cylinder head and the gage reduces indicated compression when the gage has the only check valve. Some gages have a rubber hose length between the gage and cylinder head. The throttle needs to be wide open and you need a good crank over rpm.

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                        • #27
                          Well that the problem it would run just cranks so testing at full throttle is out of the equation.
                          Also i just found out the once the pistons are freed from the cylinders that the rings should be free meaning able to spin move by hand and all mine are seized.
                          So based on that I'd have to assume that the previous owner either never properly seviced the ski or just a run of bad luck.
                          I have all the parts so I'm just going to replace all the rings and clean her out as I found some grey sludge in oil pan.
                          Also thinking of honing the exhaust manifold while its out.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            You pull the plugs on the ignition coils and fuel pump, pull the spark plugs, install the adapter, open the throttle all the way, crank the engine. That is how you check compression. Since you have the engine apart you may want to get a thinner head gasket, do the valves or head work, or install cams. I wouldn't take the motor all the way down without changing something for the better, too much work for no gain. Which pistons are you using? DO NOT TAKE THE CONNECTING ROD BOLTS OUT UNLESS YOU ARE REPLACING THEM AND DO NOT SPLIT THE CASES WITHOUT REASON! You can leave out the cylinder base gasket if you seal it with kawibond for a slight bump in compression but you must be sure it's sealed.

                            Sean
                            The older I get, the more I find myself fixing things that I knew I was doing correctly at the time.

                            Ski not running well? Check HERE!

                            1987 JS550 - JankyStandup
                            2004 STX NAsty15f

                            2004 STX-RXT-X Conversion
                            2001 Toyota Tundra Basketcase

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              LOL, DOH.
                              Ok yea I'm a noob I get what he was saying now about the throttle wide open.
                              The service manual didnt say to open throttle just to crank untill guage stops rising.
                              Smokey ur an angle I was thinking about what I could do since I have the whole engine out.
                              I removed the cylinder housing/casing, didnt open the crankcase.
                              I'm now having trouble removing the piston rings they are like welded on all the oil rings are fine and loose but the top two are stuck, one ring broke so far so I just removed all the pistons from the connecting rods.
                              I have them soaking in oil now and been tapping the rings to try to break them loose.
                              i have the zx12r cams i was thinking of throwing them on but wasn't sure what else i had to do except for shimming them.
                              Sounds good about the head gasket except i already purchased them is it a special gasket or do i split them?
                              i will buy the kawibond since i didnt buy that gasket.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Oh yea wa about installing C.O.P. would that be too difficult and would i need to change the ecu for that.
                                I was gonna purchase the COP from a ZX12R with harness and wiring it to the 15f coil harness.
                                I hear you can get better throttle responce from it and higher RPM's which i think i will also get with the zx12r cams.

                                Comment

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