Ultra-300x Exhaust Filter - GONE at 50-Hour Interval

[Spooling]

So I decided to "dig-in" and do a mess of Service to my 2012 Kawasaki Ultra-300x when it reached the 50-Hour Interval - like flush Intercooler, clean and add anti-seize to the spark plugs, Change Engine Oil and Filter, Replace Oil Cooler Hose, Tighten Hose Clamps, and replace the OEM Exhaust Filter.

Here is what the Exhaust Filter Looked Like at ~ 25 Hours back on 05/2013



Over the weekend went out "Blasting" with friends and noticed absolutely no difference in Performance, no difference in how my ski started-up. It always starts "immediately". I reached the 50-Hour Interval and this is what the OEM Exhaust Filter looks like today:



I will certainly state that I for one fog after EACH and EVERY Ride, My ski is garage kept - always, my post ride care exceeds most-all, I tilt-up the ski and rest it overnight in my garage and blow out the water in the water box probably 3 times during the week - before my subsequent next weekend outing, so I am at a loss as to why this thing blew-apart "near" the 50-Hour Interval. I ride almost exclusively in Salt Water - yet my post ride care certainly does not display this fact by looking at my ski.

I removed the Water Box and figured I would simply pull the blown-apart exhaust filter out of the opening on the "Inlet" side - no such luck. I then removed the rubber "crossover-tube" and it is "clear" as is the aluminum exit pipe.

There are some "pieces" rattling around inside the water box yet they simply won't-come-out. I am not so excited about cutting open the water box to retrieve exhaust filter pieces like Corey (I think) did. Any ideas? Run it as is? Buy a new water box - maybe the RIVA one? See if I can cut it open and find a welder locally who won't "stick-it-to-me" to weld it back together?

Concerning "orientation" of the new exhaust filter - is there an "Input" or "Output" side? I mean is there "Flow Direction" associated with the Exhaust Filter or not? I got 2 new gaskets as well.

Lastly - with the hole in the center of the new exh. filter - will I notice any difference in starting manners?

As always - Many Thanks !!!

PS - Anyone wanna buy a "Race Plate / Exhaust Filter Delete Plate" - cheap

[nicjak]

Haha join the club theres no secret to its longativity ed. You really need to look inside the waterbox use a stick mirror or small inspection type camera it may save a big headache later on. The filter has an arrow stamped for orientation on the side

[jetdave56]

In regards to the direction of the ex.filter Ed there's should be a blue and yellow marking ,that side goes towards the engine and you can't put upside down cause the bolt holes can only go one way..
Even though if you had the blue /yellow side face out the ski the surfaces on each side seem different the more flatter side goes towards the bow the more slightly rounded side towards the stern,both sides take a gasket so not sure why..

maybe be someone else can explain...

[nicjak]

Lol just look at the arrow ed thats easier

[Spooling]

Both you guys information proved VERY helpful.

Dave - I only see a green painted area on the filter - yet there is indeed a "flatter" side and a more rounded side - and what you have explained certainly matches up with what I see "stamped" on the side of the new Exhaust Filter (an arrow - imagine that)

[r33pwrd]

someone just needs to install a big ass ball valve on the exhaust and get rid of all the exhaust filter crap. I for one would have been interested in the 300 if not for it being high maintenance.

[Spooling]

You really need to look inside the waterbox use a stick mirror or small inspection type camera it may save a big headache later on.

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So I grabbed my inspection mirror and my new flashlight - and "nothing". I even had the wife stick her hand inside the water box for me - with no-luck.

I wish to ask where did "everything" go? Is it in the Gulf of Mexico now? Is it possible the rubber "crossover-hose" which leads to the "output exhaust tip" could get sliced with that stuff being "pushed" out the exhaust? Is that what you are referring to above Corey - in terms of a "big headache" later on?

I was not taking any water on in my hull during the last ride. Should I inspect that rubber "cross-over" hose really good?

It looks like I gotta cut this puppy open or buy a new water box.

Is it safe to assume the best place to cut is here:

[nicjak]

Ed if you can see clearly through the hole in the baffles its sure to have broken up and passed out you may only have small pieces left that should eventually pass. Yes to the headache of cooking the rear rubber hose due to it being blocked

[jetdave56]

I'm surprise this would happen to you Ed,you pay close attention to every detail to your ski and are great on your maintenance...

Shows salt water/air has on all boats...

Btw did you stick a magnet extender and feel around in the WB?

[SplishSplash]

I will certainly state that I for one fog after EACH and EVERY Ride, My ski is garage kept - always, my post ride care exceeds most-all, I tilt-up the ski and rest it overnight in my garage and blow out the water in the water box probably 3 times during the week - before my subsequent next weekend outing, so I am at a loss as to why this thing blew-apart "near" the 50-Hour Interval. I ride almost exclusively in Salt Water - yet my post ride care certainly does not display this fact by looking at my ski.

Well, starting it 3x a week, probably not a good idea, not getting it fully warm, your doing more harm than good. Thats a sure way to shorten the life of any engine.
Sad these filters die so fast for sure.

[Spooling]

^^^ Thanks for sharing your opinion ^^^

Yet simply trying to keep the combustion chamber from being exposed to excessive moisture while it is sitting in my garage - which ultimately leads to premature valve, valve seat and combustion chamber corrosion.

Speculation is that such contributed to this issue - Reference:

http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=189007

http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=189007&page=4&p=2070222&viewfull=1#post2070222

[Spooling]

Ed if you can see clearly through the hole in the baffles its sure to have broken up and passed out you may only have small pieces left that should eventually pass. Yes to the headache of cooking the rear rubber hose due to it being blocked

----------------

Glad I decided to cut it open (Thanks Waz) http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2432195

I am sure I would have probably cooked the hose on the next outing. It was surely trying to come out of the water box - as it was stuck in the output side of the water box.

Reference:



I managed to get all of the pieces from the exhaust filter removed from the water box.



You guys think I will be making some "more noise" with the following "modifications"?

[Spooling]

Just need to get it tig-welded back together - hopefully over the weekend:

[Jaxtripp]

Just need to get it tig-welded back together - hopefully over the weekend:


[ATTACH=CONFIG]337427[/ATTACH]

Looks good Spooling. If you haven't had it welded up yet, might consider removing everything in there so there is less chance of a filter element getting stuck again. Good luck!

[Wolf714]

Well, starting it 3x a week, probably not a good idea, not getting it fully warm, your doing more harm than good. Thats a sure way to shorten the life of any engine.
Sad these filters die so fast for sure.

I agree with the statement above. Starting an engine and not warming it up to full temperature creates a lot of moisture. I dont start anything in my garage unless I intend to ride or let it warm up fully.

im glad you took the time and cut open the water box. Now you will have no worries. Some really good advise on this forum from folks that turn wrenches on PWCs for a living.