2015 STX 15F won't Start

[Benny3956]

Hi ,
Just a newbie to the forum from Australia and had a few questions about my 2015 STX F15 ski.
Sorry if this has been gone through before.

It was running previously OK till the waterbox corroded around the coupling collar and started to fill the bilge with hot water!!
I have just replaced the outlet manifold, coupler and waterbox muffler and cannot get the ski to fire up again.
I was getting the battery low volts after some extended cranking then an F1 code. ( How do you get into diagnostic mode on this model)
Checked the original water temperature sensor on the manifold with a ohm meter and it seems to be open circuited. May have damaged it when I removed it from the old manifold.
Would this prevent the ski from starting?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Benny

[smokeysevin]

Hi ,
Just a newbie to the forum from Australia and had a few questions about my 2015 STX F15 ski.
Sorry if this has been gone through before.

It was running previously OK till the waterbox corroded around the coupling collar and started to fill the bilge with hot water!!
I have just replaced the outlet manifold, coupler and waterbox muffler and cannot get the ski to fire up again.
I was getting the battery low volts after some extended cranking then an F1 code. ( How do you get into diagnostic mode on this model)
Checked the original water temperature sensor on the manifold with a ohm meter and it seems to be open circuited. May have damaged it when I removed it from the old manifold.
Would this prevent the ski from starting?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Benny

Yes, the temp sensor being damaged can cause major issues on start/run. We believe that Kawasaki uses the temp sensor on the exhaust in the calculations for the fuel tables.

Sean

[Benny3956]

Yes, the temp sensor being damaged can cause major issues on start/run. We believe that Kawasaki uses the temp sensor on the exhaust in the calculations for the fuel tables.

Sean

Thanks Sean...there is definitely a bad wire connection at the sensor body...can get an ohm reading if I manipulate the wires but is very sus... will get a new sensor.

[Benny3956]

Update on progress...turns out it was NOT the sensor. Cylinder 4 had no compression and was due to a sticky valve and I was informed it was due to lack of oil fogging after use!!! Took it to dealer and he said he could her there was a compression problem .Dealer thern sprayed some lub into spark plug holes and cranked it over a few times then replace plugs and she started up .
I got it out for a run and was going great intil I noticed she was sitting low in the water. Lifted the seat and there was about 30cm deep of water inside. As I had replaced the exhaust manifold and water box muffler along with the coupler ,I though a cooling hose had blown off or the coupler was leaking. After many attempts to find the leak myself (only filled when at high speed ) we finally found it was coming from the drive shaft bearing housing flange seal. Some of the silicane gasket was blown out around the bolts heads and was pouring in at a garden hose rate.
Is the a common problem and is it a task to fix???

[steve45]

Usually when you have a leak on the driveshaft bearing housing flange seal, or driveshaft holder as it is called, the rubber actually splits. To replace it, you have to remove the driveshaft, which means that you have to raise the engine a little bit. You don't have to remove it completely, just raise it 8 inches or so and slide the driveshaft forward.

When you install the new holder, be sure to grease the seals. Also, put sealant around the perimeter of the holder then install the bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN the bolts yet. Put the engine back in and install the engine mounting bolts snugly, but not tight. Remove the spark plugs and disconnect the coil wires. Spin the engine over with the starter and check alignment of the drive coupling. When you're happy with it, tighten the engine mounting bolts. Leave the bolts in the holder snug for a day so the sealant cures, then tighten them, too. This way you don't squeeze all the sealant out when you tighten the bolts.

I'd recommend you look at the polyurethane holder from Rhaas.

[Benny3956]

Thanks Steve...
I am getting the local dealer to do the work... he said it was not uncommon for this to happen as the older skis ( 2015 model)

Benny3956

[pro1200]

Thanks Steve...
I am getting the local dealer to do the work... he said it was not uncommon for this to happen as the older skis ( 2015 model)

Benny3956

This happened on my 2015 at about 200 HR and used exclusively in salt water. I paid about $1,500 to have it fixed. My leak was minor but I didn't know I had it until I pulled it out of storage and found that the throttle body was frozen. Upon investigation I found that during riding before I stored it, the engine had been ingesting the salt water spray from the driveshaft seal and during the dormant period it corroded the throttle body.

[steve45]

Benny, have you ever thought about installing an electric bilge pump? It sure is a good thing to have if you have a cooling line spring a leak or if your driveshaft seal fails again, or if (when) the blue exhaust hose fails.

[Myself]

For a 2015 model.....it sure sounds like overall the ski has been neglected badly on proper maintenance and storage.

[pro1200]

For a 2015 model.....it sure sounds like overall the ski has been neglected badly on proper maintenance and storage.

I don't agree. I'm the original owner of a '15 STX so the ski has had proper maintenance and storage. The Kawi cooling system is very prone to internal salt buildup.

[Benny3956]

Hi Guys,

Thank for your inputs...the ski has had the driveshaft bearings , holder and a full jet pump replacement. Cost me another $2800 AU. I keep getting a maintenance lecture from the dealers when I take it in but I fail to see how anyone could prevent the ruptured bearing holder from occurring. Maybe if you putted around at 20 k's all day and used the ski for fishing.
Sure, it has run in saltwater most of its life ,had some neglected storage, done some serous wave jumping and had some fun workouts, but isn't that what you buy them for!!!
A bilge system of any electrical type would not have pump out the amount of water that was entering at the time ( 30 cm plus deep in the hull- nearly over the battery)

Hopefully we will get another summer season of fun out of the old girl...

Thank again,
Benny3956

[steve45]

The driveshaft holder failure is NOT your fault. They do a lot of flexing when you're jumping waves, etc. A broken engine mount will tear it up in no time, as well.

I would certainly recommend flushing the engine and jet pump after each outing in salt water. Also, spraying down all bare metal with Fluid Film, Boeshield, CRC Corrosion Inhibitor, etc. will keep the engine looking nicer and can make it easier to take things apart for maintenance.