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Smokeysevin's juryrigged standup (js550) project

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    I received my H2O Designs 3 gallon Jazz tank in from Fast Elements today. It fits really well even using the stock straps. I need to replace my fuel lines that are now slightly too short and put a layer of turf on the bottom of the tank but it looks like the fuel fiasco has been fixed now.

    On the other hand, I blew up the rear diff on my truck while on the boat ramp during the last outing when I found out the tank was cracked, then got the rona' over the weekend so testing is going to be on hold for at least a week plus ~500 miles of light driving to break in the new gears on my tow rig... it is always something.

    Sean
















    Hey there little worm gear, what are you doing sticking out?


    Truetrac, more like true crack... amIright?

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  • steve45
    replied
    Bummer! Looks like it got cold and the air couldn't get in. Guess you might have to crack the filler cap during storage.

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Welp, I went out on sunday to try and give this puppy a go and was greeted with this.

    I am looking at these tanks as an option but am open to other suggestions. It looks like I could use 12"L x 12"W x~15+"H but that is rough numbers based on the tank not actual clearance to the hood the 12x12 are probably hard maximums.


    Get the Best Performance with JAZ Products Drag Race Fuel Cell 4-Gallon Vertical Natural without Foam 250-004-NF5 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!



    Sean



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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Originally posted by steve45 View Post
    It's ALIVE!
    It is really close now. I have lots of little detailwork to wrap up but that was a big milestone for me.

    Super good way to end a wednesday after work!

    Sean

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  • steve45
    replied
    It's ALIVE!

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  • smokeysevin
    replied


    Soon

    Sean

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  • steve45
    replied
    Amazing!

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Wiring is done! "Modern kawi spec" with oe on/off switch, all oe style sumitomo sealed connectors, and "open concept" mounting. All the components are potted and fully sealed so should hold up to the hull environment. Fingers crossed, this will hold up as well the 4 strokes do.

    I also fabbed up a throttle and choke cable mount and installed a 98-2000 seadoo xp choke cable to go with the 750 sxi throttle cable. I am currently waiting on the umi throttle cable adapter before I can get that wrapped up.

    Wax racing bilge switch mount with blowsion rotary switch, and rule 500 auto bilge installed to keep the water out.

    Side note: wiring is really hard to take pictures of, especially when it is fully installed...

    Remaining items:

    Seal driveshaft fitting
    Install bilge pump mount on hull
    Trim and glue exhaust tube in place
    Install fuel tank straps
    Install battery straps
    Trim choke cable
    Fab upper choke cable mount
    Install fuel tank and fuel lines
    Install exhaust hose clamps and bead roll tubes
    Weld exhaust stinger for 2" pipe
    Glue exhaust tube in
    Seal sponson mount access hole

    Goal is to be water ready in 2 weeks.

    Sean









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  • steve45
    replied
    Looking good! Don't stop now!

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Sean Scrambles to Satisfy Standup Success (general assembly and progress update)

    Time Spent:
    36 Hours (over a few days.)

    Tools Used:
    90% of my stock

    Tools Properly Put Away:
    54%

    Materials Used:
    Who knows at this point? I have sure as hell stopped keeping track of what it has cost...

    PPE Used:
    Appropriate for Tasks
    Safety Sandalls

    Number of scratches added to fresh paint: 16

    Total swear words directed towards jetpump/shoe: 750,469

    Percentage complete:
    60% (I think I am starting to get over the hump on this, it is getting really close but I know the last 10% takes 90% of the time which is why I plan to sneak up on it by convincing myself I am really only 60% there. Crazy like a fox)

    I have finally started tossing stuff back together, summer is getting long in the tooth and I am sick of this thing being strewn across my garage, not making brapp noises.

    Last week I got the motor torn down. I gave the jugs a quick flogging with a dingleball hone, then thoroughly flushed them in the parts washer. The crank got new seals and new piston pin bearings. The pistons got dunked in the ultrasonic cleaner until they were decarboned and then tossed onto the crank with new rings. The motor got all new gaskets thanks to our friendly neighborhood @JetManiac and I pressure tested until it held as intended (Big Pin 750 Rebuild Quesitons).

    While I was waiting for the threebond to dry on the cases, I rebuilt the pump with a kit I picked up from @brapperdoodle (gracias amigo) and learned how weird the 750 pumps are compared to modern setups. I only had to take the pump apart once to figure out what was wrong so that was nice. The pump got stuffed with a 10/16 Hooker (750 Swap Prop Recommendations)

    I got some shiny new cooling line fittings and placed an order for my "fuel line" to connect the cooling system up but that got held up in USPS limbo. (Cooling Line Recommendations)

    Even though I had already installed glued in, and flared the cooling lines on the inside of the hull, I had done none of those things on the outer section. That made things super fun to cut and flare the lines with the limited space in the tunnel space... I ended up "clearancing" my flaring tool with my angle grinder so now it is a custom tool. Something tells me I won't get my tool deposit back from o'reilly's anymore if I were to try and take it back.

    Installing the jet pump proved to be a massive pain, the gasket on the front of the pump REALLY didn't want to slide nicely into the shoe, I ended up using some RTV to glue the gasket to the pump, then add a slight lead in chamfer to the gasket. I also added a slight lead in to the shoe which was a tricky thing to do since it was already glued to the hull... not too bright of a move on my part. There is almost no room to install the pump hardware once the cooling lines are installed. I found out after installing the pump that I had cut the cooling/bilge lines longer than I should have so fitting that hose is going to be a real pain but it should be possible without pulling the pump. Learn from my mistakes on this one...

    To stay busy, I started working on throwing stuff together again. I got my coil plug leads sleeved and terminated with self-extinguishing wire sleeving from wirecare and new MSD plug ends from Jegs. Hopefully I did the plug leads right, this was my first time doing them but it seemed relatively straightforward.

    That stuff done, I checked over the motor and found out I had the wrong starter bendix (I had swapped it with a kawi 4 stroke one which spins the opposite direction) installed so I got to take the flywheel back off and replace it with the OG that came with the motor. The cold fusion flywheel lock came in handy so I am glad I kept it.

    Crisis averted, I started fitting the controls and upper pole vent/passthrough. The stock tube was drilled out and removed and I had originally planned on using some kanaflex but the specific version that I bought (a year or so ago...) was too stiff and I didn't like how it popped when the pole went from fully down to slightly up. I ran to holmes depot today and picked up some 1-7/8" ridgid shop-vac hose and set to work making that make sense. I ended up chopping the "threaded" section of the coupler off, sanding the OD down to fit inside a 1.5" long section of 2" ID silicone connector then smushing that into the hole I cut in the pole mount. The vacuum hose itself is about 1.5 feet long and is free fitting inside the 2" SCH 40 pvc pipe I replaced the stock tube with. To install the pvc pipe I had to add a clearance recess into the lower section of the pole and "persuade" the tube in. I then took a 2" pvc coupler and coped it at an angle to match the angle of the inner pole structure to give the new tube something I could attach it to the pole with.

    Once I was happy with that, I grabbed one of the many kawi runabout start/stop switches and spliced an extra 1.5 feet of wire in the middle then sleeved it with braided shielding. The kill switch wiring, 750 throttle cable, and steering cable were then run down the tube and the pole was installed along with one of the wax racing pole locks. I have a 2000 seadoo XP choke cable on the way to wrap up the controls side of things.

    Remaining Items:

    cooling line install
    fuel line install
    stinger outlet install
    wiring
    bilge pump
    battery cables
    reinstall vin plate (removed for painting and because it fell off...)
    install other side graphics
    install rego numbers
    throttle/choke cable mounts
    cut/seal exhaust tube
    fab/install opposite side "exhaust" blockoff plate

    Sean


    2" Sch 40 24" long tube


    Tube Clearance and Hose Spec


    Installed Stickout


    Coped Locking/Locating Flange


    Installed Passthrough


    Vacuum Hose "threaded section"


    Hose Clearance and Install


    Pole Lock from Wax Racing


    Bolted in and aligned and sleeved coil installed. I did have to clearance the aluminum bedplate because the stinger coupler for the exhaust is really big.


    Room for activities? Ignore the non-stuck hood seal...


    Purdy.

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Old minor update. Added tank pads, waterbox beauty rings, waterbox back strap, front fill cover, tank turf, tank straps.

    Sean













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  • steve45
    replied
    Very nice!

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Detailwork Sans Details

    Started prepping for reassembly and added turf on the rails. Learned a lot in the process. I also prepped the inside of the hull for the Interlux Bilge coat and got a layer on.

    I am kind of worried that something is up with it though because it is sticky and tacks up when I tired to wipe the dust off with denatured alcohol. Consider it is specific bilge paint that is supposed to be chemical resistant I am not happy. Hopefully it is just curing slower than advertised and will eventually harden properly because I really don't want to have to scrape the whole thing down with acetone.

    I also started prepping the pole for the larger inlet/cable route and it looks like my kanaflex is a little stiffer than I would like for where it is. I will either pickup something softer or leave it alone, right now I am not 100% sure which.

    I dry installed the 2 cooling lines from the pump area into the hull and flared the ends so they don't slip off. I need to knock the burr off the flares and glue them in but I am going to wait until I install the exhaust before I glue everything in place.

    Waiting on new pole bushings from Watcon and bow eyes and tow loops from Blowsion. Graphics arrived but I am not ready to stick them yet.

    I need to clean up the motor mount hardware and start prepping to rebuild and install the motor. Getting Close I think...


    Sean




    Something looks off...




    Not bad for my first time wrapping turf rails, learned a lot on how to do it better next time.









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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Originally posted by steve45 View Post
    Yes, it looks so much better with some color on it!

    I hate painting with our West Texas dust, but I'll take it over mosquitoes any day!
    Most of the time, I keep the garage shut but I can't risk hotboxing a newborn lol. The mosquitos are worth it in this case.

    For a while I was considering just leaving it ugly but I couldn't bring myself to leave it alone. I am glad I made the choice I did, it makes me really happy to see it even not finished.

    I may change my opinion if it doesn't go back together now but I did a dry fit of 90 percent of stuff before committing to paint. I am going to do a few other small things before I tape everything back off and do the bilge coat on the inside.

    Sean

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  • smokeysevin
    replied
    Turf part 1 (Tacky Turf Tucking Troubles Talent-less Technologist)


    Woke up this morning and decided to see if I could be productive before Kiddo and Mamma woke up. Hauled-ass to Lowes and snagged some Dap Weldwood to see if I could glue my turf down before Monday morning. I knocked back the paint with 60 grit sandpaper and wiped everything down with denatured alcohol before I started doing my layout. I quickly discovered that for a ski with a stock tray, it is completely worth it (imo) to buy the precut stuff because I can't make templates to save my life. After flailing around for a few hours I said screw it and just measured the cuts and started slicing. I started with the bottom (which was probably a mistake in hindsight) and glued in my wedge at the rear of the tray. In the process, I learned that the paint I used is weldwood soluable... fun. Even after discovering that, I decided to keep going which will probably come back to bite me when the turf starts peeling off this pile before it even hits the water. I moved onto doing the sides next which I thought was a challenge until I started on the dash panel. All told, I probably spent the same amount of time trying to get the fit nice on that, as I did on the entire rest of the ski. Tray done, I moved onto the pole landing strip... and laid that down nicely.

    All said, I still have/want to do the rails with the turf, that may be a nightmare but I will probably still give it a shot. I can completely appreciate the work and skill that goes into this from some of y'all. I learned how contact cement actually works today so I am apparently one of today's lucky 10,000. I also learned how much of a pain contact cement can be so that is the other side of that coin.

    Time Spent:
    6 Hours ( Next time, I will pay one of you experts for this. The product will be better and will be done quicker. )

    Tools Used:
    Segmented Utility Knife
    72" Straight Edge
    24" Square
    12" Square
    Tape Measure

    Materials Used:
    60 Grit Sandpaper
    Denatured Alcohol
    DAP Weldwood Contact Cement
    Hydro Turf Black Diamond

    PPE
    3M VOC Respirator
    Worktunes Headphones

    Turf Wasted: 420 in^2

    Utility Knife Segments Ruined by Cutting Directly on my Driveway: 4

    Years Until the Scratches Carved into my Driveway Become an Archeological Site and Historical Preserve: 6900



    Sean









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