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Disappointed, Distraught, & Disgusted With My Ultra 150

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  • Disappointed, Distraught, & Disgusted With My Ultra 150

    I had to pull the engine out of my Ultra 150 to get some corrosion pinholes welded up in my cylinders and expansion chamber. I have never run it in salt water, but our local lake is brackish. I've mentioned this before and I'm going to come up with a solution to it.

    What really has me upset is that I tried to spin the driveshaft while I had the engine out to make sure it spun freely. It's locked down. Corrosion has formed between the pump case and the liner, pushing the liner against the impeller. I've replaced the pump case once about 5 years ago. The problem now is that this part is no longer available. I was afraid this might happen and I've been looking for a spare for about 2 years and I've come up empty handed. I'm fortunate because I purchased another 150 with a blown engine a few years ago with the idea of installing a 4-stroke. The pump on that 'Ski is good, so I can get my 150 running--for a while. However I don't know what this means for my dream of building a 4-stroke out of it.

    I suppose I could try to install a pump from an STX-15F, but I don't know if my fiberglass work is up to that kind of challenge. Getting the tunnel, etc. to flow properly doesn't sound like much fun.

    Oh, I know some will say that the liner can be replaced--but I don't know how. The Ultra 150 pump isn't straight, it's tapered, and the liner is tapered. I don't remember if the taper is straight or if it has a curve. One idea that I had would be to remove the stainless steel liner and use a spray metal technique to coat the inside with a hard coating. I don't know if the inside of the case can be cleaned up enough for the coating to stick, I don't know what coatings will stick to the aluminum, I don't know how evenly the coating can be applied, if it could be machined after coating, etc.

    After I get the pumps swapped I'll tear into the bad one and take the parts to a local spray metal company and see what they can do.

    If anybody has any experience with spray metal, or changing pumps, please share your thoughts!
    '15 Kawi Ultra 310X
    '99 Kawi Ultra 150 (2)
    '10 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX parts 'Ski
    '04 Kawi STX 15-F, '06 STX 15-F (2)
    '91 Kawi Jet Mate
    '97 Yamaha Exciter 220 (Boat)
    '99 Yamaha Exciter 270 (Boat)
    '78 Nacra 5.2 Catamaran
    '05 Windrider WR-10 Trimaran, '05 Windrider WR-16 Trimaran
    ... and that's just the boats! I'm living proof that you can have too many toys!

  • #2
    I have used this product in other applications
    Kills Rust and Corrosion World's Greatest Lubricant, Penetrant & Anti-Seize Safe on Electronics CorrosionX is the most advanced and effective corrosion prevention compound, lubricant and penetrant in the world! Although it may look like a typical oil-based anti-corrosion spray, CorrosionX utilizes a revolutionary technology called Polar Bonding™ that does far more than merely slow down the corrosion process like those so-called 'corrosion inhibitors'. Corrosion-X actually kills existing rust and corrosion (keeping it from spreading) and provides long-term protection against rust and corrosion on any metal surface. Learn More | Brochure | Product Data Sheet | SDS | SDS (aerosol version) CorrosionX is the only product available to the public that meets the US Navy's tough new corrosion prevention and control performance requirement MIL-PRF-81309H. Corrosion Protection and Rust Preventive Coating Due to Polar Bonding, CorrosionX causes common metals and metal alloys such as iron, steel, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, etc. to chemically behave more like noble metals such as gold and platinum. In other words, as long as CorrosionX is present on metal, it can't rust or corrode! CorrosionX also has a dielectric characteristic, so it's safe on electronics and completely shuts down electrolysis between dissimilar metals. Use CorrosionX wherever you want corrosion control without paint or wax coatings. A light spray of CorrosionX on power heads, gensets and engines a couple of times a year will keeping them looking like new – even in saltwater and coastal environments. To learn more about Polar Bonding, please visit our technology page. A Breakthrough Lubricant CorrosionX's unique formulation offers a multitude of advantages over conventional spray lubricants. Because it sticks to metal like a magnet, it cannot be easily displaced by pressure, friction or moisture. It lubricates under extreme loads and high temperatures. Not only does CorrosionX lubricate better, it lasts many times longer! This is especially true in outdoor, coastal and marine environments where direct exposure to rain and sea spray will quickly displace ordinary lubricants. Use CorrosionX on sheaves, hinges, locks, cable/wire rope, windlasses or any metal part needing lubrication. It is ideal for fishing reels and firearms. Unbeatable Penetrant CorrosionX also penetrates faster and further than anything you've ever used. Corroded or rusted nuts, bolts or fittings can usually be disassembled within a few minutes. Even items you believe to be hopelessly seized can usually be saved and returned to service. Watch this time lapse video closely! Due to it's unique Polar Bonding characteristic, CorrosionX is such an incredible penetrant that it will defy gravity and climb straight up this 3" bolt!! Safe On Electronics Water and electronics don't mix. Until now, there haven't been many options for protecting or restoring electronics from moisture intrusion. CorrosionX's unique Polar Bonding Fluid Thin Film Coating (FTFC) technology displaces moisture and seals it out with a self-healing high dielectric coating. Even though the CorrosionX has a dielectric property in excess of 39,000 volts, because it forms an ultra-thin film it does not interfere with electronics or heat dissipation. A must for all marine battery terminals, and a mission critical product for drones and all Remote Control hobbyists. Minimal Environmental Impact Product The volatile organic content (usually abbreviated as VOC or VOCs) of CorrosionX is now ZERO. Compare that to most products in the spray lubricant category, which can be 50% or more VOC (for example, according to their current Safety Data Sheet, WD-40 is 49.5% solvent). That means CorrosionX is many times more gentle on you, your equipment and the environment.


    In my mind....this is way past PB Blaster or WD40

    maybe find a way to add a port or fitting so you can reapply as necessary.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, cocacolaxyz! I'm familiar with CorrosionX, but I've never used it. I'm not sure how the liner is secured to the housing since it is tapered. I don't know if anything could effectively seal the water out where the case and liner meet. I've thought about trying an anaerobic sealer, but I don't know that enough could soak in to do the job. It's probably to late to treat my replacement case, but I'll give it a try.
      '15 Kawi Ultra 310X
      '99 Kawi Ultra 150 (2)
      '10 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX parts 'Ski
      '04 Kawi STX 15-F, '06 STX 15-F (2)
      '91 Kawi Jet Mate
      '97 Yamaha Exciter 220 (Boat)
      '99 Yamaha Exciter 270 (Boat)
      '78 Nacra 5.2 Catamaran
      '05 Windrider WR-10 Trimaran, '05 Windrider WR-16 Trimaran
      ... and that's just the boats! I'm living proof that you can have too many toys!

      Comment


      • #4
        I am pretty busy at work right now (name is actually David).

        2 of my Ski's are Kawasaki's and not sure what kind of pump maintenance I need to do.
        The Seadoo I am familiar with.

        If there's a thread on greasing/oiling Kawi pumps....please advise. (1100ZXI & 900STX)

        when I raced RC boats, we put CorrosionX on all our electronics.

        Have you seen the TV running underwater?
        cannot find video

        see this
        DescriptionI coated the Smart phone with CorrosionX by taking out the battery and liberally apply CorrosionX. Due to the limited access into the phone itself...
        Last edited by cocacolaxyz; 08-04-2022, 10:14 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          I have one that did the same thing. My thoughts were to remove the liner, clean the corrosion, then devise a way to re-install the liner securely. I'm thinking the distortions in the liner could be restored with heat and pressing/hammering. The liner has locking tabs that hold it into the aluminum. I collapsed the liner enough to see the tabs, but it was still stuck hard.
          I found a used replacement to keep me riding, and kept the old part for another day. I'm interested to know if you come up with a solution.

          Comment


          • #6
            What is the I.D. on the wear ring at the front ? I would measure but do not have any more 150 pumps
            Had to be there - and there.

            Comment


            • #7
              I am sorry to hear you are running into issues steve45. You help more people here than anybody. You have helped me countless times. I have an Ultra 150 with a pump installed but no engine that I picked up in a parts deal. I have no idea if the pump is good or not. If you need me to inspect it let me know. My ultimate plan is to rebuilt that Ultra 150 and get it on the water again. That probably won't be for a long time though. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you.

              Comment


              • #8
                Steve45,
                Can you post some pics of the 150 liner/pump housing. My thought is to remove the liner altogether. Then weld build up the impeller, machine it on the lathe to get your clearances tight. Albeit, yes the housing is prone to more wear in sandy conditions. I can help you if you want. I am in CT. Pretty sure you saw my post on how I did this to my 12F. However the liners in the 12f/15f are avail and press in. You do have to cut the old ones out without messing up the housing.
                T.J.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks to everyone!

                  I'm not out of business yet, I'll find a solution eventually. As I mentioned, I'm going to look into the spray metal idea some more, but I'm sure it would be very expensive and it may be difficult to get the coating evenly spread over the surface. I believe that they can do the process while spinning the part in a lathe, but I'm not that knowledgeable about it.

                  Yes, TJS, I certainly did read your thread and I've been thinking about the possibility of building up the impeller and cutting it to fit a spray metal liner, but I didn't consider just removing the liner. That may work. I'll let you know.

                  I'm think that if I could get a spray metal liner made of tungsten for example, that may hold up better than stainless. I suppose that plastics or epoxies could even be used.
                  '15 Kawi Ultra 310X
                  '99 Kawi Ultra 150 (2)
                  '10 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX parts 'Ski
                  '04 Kawi STX 15-F, '06 STX 15-F (2)
                  '91 Kawi Jet Mate
                  '97 Yamaha Exciter 220 (Boat)
                  '99 Yamaha Exciter 270 (Boat)
                  '78 Nacra 5.2 Catamaran
                  '05 Windrider WR-10 Trimaran, '05 Windrider WR-16 Trimaran
                  ... and that's just the boats! I'm living proof that you can have too many toys!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Steve,
                    Check out Abom79 on Youtube. He is one of the top machinist creators on youtube. He does spray welding to build up on shafts. He has vids on it. He uses products from a company called Eutectic. Not sure if that can be done on aluminum.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'll do it! I love Abom79 and have watched a number of his videos, but I guess I missed that one. I even bought a Gould & Eberhardt shaper! (He's got several videos of his).
                      '15 Kawi Ultra 310X
                      '99 Kawi Ultra 150 (2)
                      '10 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX parts 'Ski
                      '04 Kawi STX 15-F, '06 STX 15-F (2)
                      '91 Kawi Jet Mate
                      '97 Yamaha Exciter 220 (Boat)
                      '99 Yamaha Exciter 270 (Boat)
                      '78 Nacra 5.2 Catamaran
                      '05 Windrider WR-10 Trimaran, '05 Windrider WR-16 Trimaran
                      ... and that's just the boats! I'm living proof that you can have too many toys!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TMiller
                        What is the I.D. on the wear ring at the front ? I would measure but do not have any more 150 pumps

                        It has a 130mm inside diameter at the front. The aluminum case is approx 132mm inside diameter. Maybe a steel block with a 1mm lip that matches the radius could be fabricated to press the ring out...The tabs in the aluminum case that lock the ring in could be drilled out...

                        Comment


                        • #13


                          Here's some pics of the liner/pump.
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I would imagine someone skilled with a slip roll machine can make this cone shape part. Then it would be a matter if fitting the stainless piece in there nice and tight(a few thous bigger) and tig weld up the seam. Grind/sand it smooth.
                            T.J.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Its not just a taper, it's straight on both ends and tapered in the middle.

                              I've been researching the spray metal technique and it looks like the housing is probably too thin for the heat required. That leads me to think that building up epoxy or other industrial coatings, then machining it in a lathe might be feasible.

                              I've decided to put a large water tank on one of my trailers to take to the lake for flushing. I don't know if flushing will really help with the jet pumps, but it should help with engines and exhaust systems. I need to figure out what kind of water to use; distilled, de-mineralized, de-ionized, RO, etc. Also have to find a source for it. Nothing is easy...

                              At least I got my 150 pump swapped with my project 'Ski. I'll be back in business as soon as my welder has time to finish fixing my expansion chamber.
                              '15 Kawi Ultra 310X
                              '99 Kawi Ultra 150 (2)
                              '10 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX, '13 Kawi Ultra LX parts 'Ski
                              '04 Kawi STX 15-F, '06 STX 15-F (2)
                              '91 Kawi Jet Mate
                              '97 Yamaha Exciter 220 (Boat)
                              '99 Yamaha Exciter 270 (Boat)
                              '78 Nacra 5.2 Catamaran
                              '05 Windrider WR-10 Trimaran, '05 Windrider WR-16 Trimaran
                              ... and that's just the boats! I'm living proof that you can have too many toys!

                              Comment

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