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If you have had any of following problems in the past or just want to prevent them from happening in the future on your 250X/260X, you should consider installig the 300X exhaust filter on your ski.
> Frequent spark plug change due to fouling, poor engine running, etc.
> Hard restarting engine on water, cranking only & not firing up easily.
> Stuck or broken off spark plug while trying to remove.
> Rusted top end engine parts like valves, guides, etc.
Mainly you just need a filter. However, if you want to do it right, you should buy a filter “kit” instead.
The Kawi P/N for the kit is 99999-0350, and the kit comes with following parts with instruction:
> Filter
> Gaskets x 2
> Bolts x 4 (longer than original)
> Bushings x4 (bolts hole ID on filter is 2 mm larger than OD of bolts)
Here is a general diagram showing major parts –quite simple and straight forward.
Tip 1 – Filter Direction
Even for 300X -The filter is directional, meaning it has front & back AND up & down.
The stamped arrow (red circled arrow) on the filter body should point toward the back of the ski.
To remeber it easily, just think of as the "direction" of the exhaust gas flow.
Tip 2 – Filter Fitment
For 250X/260X only, before trying to tighten up, see if the front ?¢ of the filter would nicely fit all the way into the front exhaust pipe all the way. Also, see if the rear ?¢ of the filter would nicely fit all the wayinto the rear pipe.
If the filger does not go in all the way into either of the exhaust pipe opening,you have an interference issue. That happens because the filter was not originally designed for 250X/260X. The edge of the filter is coming in contact with the internal webbing inside the pipe. See pics below, where they are shiny like machined or ground. That's the usual contact points from the filter edge. First locate which edge of the filter is touching, then using a grinding wheel or a file, grind it down – the filter edge, not the pipe's webbing!
Tip 3 - Gaskets
If you want to reuse your old gaskets (& save $16x2 on new ones), try to remove loose black rubber-like coatingfrom them as much as usual. Then apply very thin coat of high-temp sealant such as Three-Bond 1211 on all (total 4) sides of the gaskets. If you put too much, you may clog up the cooling water passage holes when the excess sealant squeezes out. The key is to apply evenly and completely but without excess.
Tip 4 – Filter Longevity and Maintenance
It needs to be checked and replace as necessary every 25-50 hours, mainly depending on following 2 factors:
> How well you flush the engine afer riding, because corrosion eats away the edge of the filter core especially when engine is not running.
> How hard you ride, because the exhaust gas pressure from the 300-hp engine can put lots of force on the filter core trying to push out.
Here is what the 300X owner's manual says:
Later I will write what can happen if the filter maintenance is neglected...
> Frequent spark plug change due to fouling, poor engine running, etc.
> Hard restarting engine on water, cranking only & not firing up easily.
> Stuck or broken off spark plug while trying to remove.
> Rusted top end engine parts like valves, guides, etc.
Mainly you just need a filter. However, if you want to do it right, you should buy a filter “kit” instead.
The Kawi P/N for the kit is 99999-0350, and the kit comes with following parts with instruction:
> Filter
> Gaskets x 2
> Bolts x 4 (longer than original)
> Bushings x4 (bolts hole ID on filter is 2 mm larger than OD of bolts)
Here is a general diagram showing major parts –quite simple and straight forward.
Tip 1 – Filter Direction
Even for 300X -The filter is directional, meaning it has front & back AND up & down.
The stamped arrow (red circled arrow) on the filter body should point toward the back of the ski.
To remeber it easily, just think of as the "direction" of the exhaust gas flow.
Tip 2 – Filter Fitment
For 250X/260X only, before trying to tighten up, see if the front ?¢ of the filter would nicely fit all the way into the front exhaust pipe all the way. Also, see if the rear ?¢ of the filter would nicely fit all the wayinto the rear pipe.
If the filger does not go in all the way into either of the exhaust pipe opening,you have an interference issue. That happens because the filter was not originally designed for 250X/260X. The edge of the filter is coming in contact with the internal webbing inside the pipe. See pics below, where they are shiny like machined or ground. That's the usual contact points from the filter edge. First locate which edge of the filter is touching, then using a grinding wheel or a file, grind it down – the filter edge, not the pipe's webbing!
Tip 3 - Gaskets
If you want to reuse your old gaskets (& save $16x2 on new ones), try to remove loose black rubber-like coatingfrom them as much as usual. Then apply very thin coat of high-temp sealant such as Three-Bond 1211 on all (total 4) sides of the gaskets. If you put too much, you may clog up the cooling water passage holes when the excess sealant squeezes out. The key is to apply evenly and completely but without excess.
Tip 4 – Filter Longevity and Maintenance
It needs to be checked and replace as necessary every 25-50 hours, mainly depending on following 2 factors:
> How well you flush the engine afer riding, because corrosion eats away the edge of the filter core especially when engine is not running.
> How hard you ride, because the exhaust gas pressure from the 300-hp engine can put lots of force on the filter core trying to push out.
Here is what the 300X owner's manual says:
Later I will write what can happen if the filter maintenance is neglected...
spray gasket is really only a prep for gaskets
310R
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