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MSX engine and driveshaft couplers

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  • #1

    MSX engine and driveshaft couplers

    Hi Guys,
    Broke a finger off the engine coupler the other day when trying to remove it from the PTO stub-shaft on my MSX150 engine. I was loosening it the correct way but man was it tight... bummer.




    Question: Does the MSX110/150 use the same engine-side coupler as the other MSX models?

    Question: Is the engine-side coupler (one I broke) the same part as the driveshaft-side coupler?

    Question: Anyone got one you could sell me?


    Thanks!
    Cheers!
    '04 MSX 150 (#1) - Precision ECU, 36mm turbo, sleeved, Wiseco pistons, FST gears
    '04 MSX 150 (#2) - Stocker, 225+hrs, former C.G. Auxiliary
    '95 SLT 750 (#1) - Rebuilt crank, rebuilt carbs, triple pump
    '95 SLT 750 (#2) - Top end (+.75mm), rebuilt carbs, triple pump
    '95 SL 750 - parts
    -- past: '95 SLT750, '01 Rio 1200, '04 MSX150, '03 MSX140, '91 Kawi 650sx, '92 Kawi X2, '94 SLT750, '96 SL780
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Okay... little more research... I think answers one of my questions.

    Per Polaris parts website... All MSX models share these two part numbers:
    [5631450 Coupler, Drive, Pump]
    [5631451 Coupler, Drive, Engine]

    So not Weber-engine specific... good. But being different part numbers, looks like engine-side and pump-side couplers are different. Can anyone confirm?

    And if anyone has one to sell me... much appreciated!

    Cheers!
    '04 MSX 150 (#1) - Precision ECU, 36mm turbo, sleeved, Wiseco pistons, FST gears
    '04 MSX 150 (#2) - Stocker, 225+hrs, former C.G. Auxiliary
    '95 SLT 750 (#1) - Rebuilt crank, rebuilt carbs, triple pump
    '95 SLT 750 (#2) - Top end (+.75mm), rebuilt carbs, triple pump
    '95 SL 750 - parts
    -- past: '95 SLT750, '01 Rio 1200, '04 MSX150, '03 MSX140, '91 Kawi 650sx, '92 Kawi X2, '94 SLT750, '96 SL780

    Comment

    • #3
      Ill look tonight I should have a few laying around.
      4-Tec Jetmate
      2004 MSX 1500SC
      T-45 GPRXP
      1995 785 Three Seat Triple
      Click Here>>>>>> Greenhulks Store
      save 10% off of most performance products coupon code is greenhulk
       search here

      Comment

      • #4
        Looks like the engine side is M24 and the shaft side is M20. I have a complete set if you need it.
        4-Tec Jetmate
        2004 MSX 1500SC
        T-45 GPRXP
        1995 785 Three Seat Triple
        Click Here>>>>>> Greenhulks Store
        save 10% off of most performance products coupon code is greenhulk
         search here

        Comment

        • #5
          Ah... that explains the difference. Thanks for the lead on your available pair.

          Does anyone know... can you get the engine-side coupler off with the engine in the hull?

          If you pull the pump and slide the driveshaft and pump coupler rearwards... I'm wondering if there is enough space to unthread the engine-side coupler and get it out... or do you have to disassemble the pump-side coupler and pull the driveshaft out first?

          I'm wondering if I could JB-Weld this finger with a small bolt tapped into the finger for strength, thru the coupler body. If it failed... just wondering if I could get the coupler off to replace while it's all in the hull. Yeah, I know... redneck fix.

          Cheers!
          '04 MSX 150 (#1) - Precision ECU, 36mm turbo, sleeved, Wiseco pistons, FST gears
          '04 MSX 150 (#2) - Stocker, 225+hrs, former C.G. Auxiliary
          '95 SLT 750 (#1) - Rebuilt crank, rebuilt carbs, triple pump
          '95 SLT 750 (#2) - Top end (+.75mm), rebuilt carbs, triple pump
          '95 SL 750 - parts
          -- past: '95 SLT750, '01 Rio 1200, '04 MSX150, '03 MSX140, '91 Kawi 650sx, '92 Kawi X2, '94 SLT750, '96 SL780

          Comment

          • #6
            seems high risk to me. I wouldn't want that thing to come apart @ rpm. You're in there now's the time to fix it.
            Originally posted by ripcuda View Post
            Ah... that explains the difference. Thanks for the lead on your available pair.

            Does anyone know... can you get the engine-side coupler off with the engine in the hull?

            If you pull the pump and slide the driveshaft and pump coupler rearwards... I'm wondering if there is enough space to unthread the engine-side coupler and get it out... or do you have to disassemble the pump-side coupler and pull the driveshaft out first?

            I'm wondering if I could JB-Weld this finger with a small bolt tapped into the finger for strength, thru the coupler body. If it failed... just wondering if I could get the coupler off to replace while it's all in the hull. Yeah, I know... redneck fix.

            Cheers!

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by ripcuda View Post
              ... Does anyone know... can you get the engine-side coupler off with the engine in the hull?

              If you pull the pump and slide the driveshaft and pump coupler rearwards... I'm wondering if there is enough space to unthread the engine-side coupler and get it out... or do you have to disassemble the pump-side coupler and pull the driveshaft out first? ...
              On my MSX140 there was JUST enough room to slide the impeller side coupler rearwards (with jet pump removed) and lift the engine up off the mounts.

              I do not recall if there was enough room to actually unscrew the drive spider and get it out. My guess is no, too tight. But all this is with the three cylinder 2-stroke engine, not the Weber.

              Note that the spider drive coupler pieces may be the same but the drive shaft is (I think) different length on the Weber models.

              Now might be a good time to install a new rubber piece in the drive coupler. I also filed the metal casting ridges smooth on my coupler and applied silicone lube to the rubber spider before reassembly.

              Shaft alignment is important. A slight misalignment when I first reinstalled my through-hull bearing carrier resulted in vibrations from the drive spider strong enough to completely shake the shaft seals out of the bearing carrier!
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              Comment

              • #8
                Good advice K447... thanks!

                And great point Fixer... I hadn't thought through the possibilities of it letting go at full RPM. That little metal finger could do some damage. Think I'll replace it.

                Cheers!
                '04 MSX 150 (#1) - Precision ECU, 36mm turbo, sleeved, Wiseco pistons, FST gears
                '04 MSX 150 (#2) - Stocker, 225+hrs, former C.G. Auxiliary
                '95 SLT 750 (#1) - Rebuilt crank, rebuilt carbs, triple pump
                '95 SLT 750 (#2) - Top end (+.75mm), rebuilt carbs, triple pump
                '95 SL 750 - parts
                -- past: '95 SLT750, '01 Rio 1200, '04 MSX150, '03 MSX140, '91 Kawi 650sx, '92 Kawi X2, '94 SLT750, '96 SL780

                Comment

                • #9
                  The drive shaft is the same, they just used spacers on the threads between the driveshaft and coupler. But I still believe you won't have the room without unbolting the motor from it's mounts and sliding it foward
                  Some Other Guy's MSX-X http://www.greenhulk.net/show...ec-powered-MSX

                  Comment

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