Tech Library

[ph2ocraft]

This is where we will start adding the tech stuff until we get enough information to hopefully give it its own spot.
Be sure to check out the gallery as I have been dropping a lot of the tech stuff there.

http://www.tripleateam.com/water/v/U...96/Tech+Stuff/

Have some tech information to share? Please feel free to post it right here.

[2&4strokepolaristech]

PVL Ignitions

PVL IGNTIONS EXPLAINED
By Jason Lorenz(Jay)

Ok I see a lot of people with no spark problems with Polaris domestic carb engines. I hope that this will help all of you who have lost the spark in your pwc relationship!!

Here we go:

The ignition that you have in your boat is a PVL that is made in Germany. It is one of the best performance ignitions out there for most power sports applications. It is a true digital ignition. Polaris has always been a performance oriented company always trying to lead the industry in all it has produced. That being said, they contacted PVL ignitions to make them a system for their watercraft. The first system was used in a production boat in 1996 on the hurricanes, sl/slt 700, SL 900, sltx 1050. These first few years would be tough and needed some revised parts. There are a few ways to identify your current PVL ignition in your machine.

First is the cdi. This is your black box that is in your electrical box. It tells the coils when to fire and for how long to saturate the primary side of the ignition coil. It can be one of three boxes. The first being the red podded (color of epoxy where the wires come out) box with a com port. This was found on very early boats and if you have one in your boat you should upgrade when you get the chance. It will fail you sometime in its life. The second generation box is red podded with a com port nest to where the wires come out. This is programable/adjustable. Better but not the best. The third is the current black podded with a com port this is the best cdi ever produced. These rarely have any problems. This is the toughest part of the ignition system. Over the years, I have had only 6 bad boxes that are black podded. Most of them were other than spark problems (won't crank over, will not hold a steady timing degree, etc...)

Stators are the weakest link in this system. They fail often. The latest version is the best version and the life out of one of these is great. The earlier stators did some crazy things. Early stators are easily identified by the plug ends and the white insulation around the trigger coils. If you have one of these, better get a new one, It will fail you soon. They do things like limit a boat to 3000-4000 rpm, no spark, jump timing, drain batteries etc... Stators currently have four versions. There is a twin with an 8 pin plug and one with multi-connectors. Same with the triples one with an 8 pin plug and one with multi-connectors. You can use either twin or any twin and either triples on any triple. Difference is that plug. Now here is the nice part. If you have a stator with a multi plug you can get yourself an adapter that allows you to use the 8 pin stator and it makes for a faster job.
You just plug in all your connections in the box and the connector stays outside the box. This leaves you with a nice, easy engine removal and stator changes. Now you can only use this stator if you have upgraded your ignition system because the wiring is different. The nice thing is that you can just order a stator for a newer boat and not waste the money on the stuff you don't need. Below are the part numbers for the connectors.
When you use these connectors you must order this stator. 4010170 triple, 4010172 twins. Connectors come with the rubber packing in them for the electrical box. Like I said, you had to have upgraded the ignition before. If you are not sure if you have an upgraded ignition check the stator as mentioned above also check the cdi as well also mention in above paragraph.
What makes the stators go bad do you ask? well here it is as I have found through the years: battery voltage spike(charging battery when in craft with too high of a amperage charger not having the battery isolated(disconnected),jump starting craft with a car running or jump box, battery connection arcing from loose connections(grounds, post connections)pour grounding of stator(i.e. corrosion/early stator poor design), over revving engine(spinning a modded engine over 7600 rpm they will not last long at all) they lose the ability to ground properly/dissipate heat and a lot of heat(heat makes the resistance higher and makes it hard to get a good ground) making a lot of heat is from the electricity made from the stator and cannot dissipate the heat fast enough through the aluminum stator plate and flywheel housing(this is why the fuel injected models with the big stators need to run water through the front housing to cool off the aluminum so that the stator does not burn up). this mod can be done easily and pretty cheap(depending on you model of boat). I do it all the time to modded boats and it works very well. these are the most common causes of failure. and of course the obvious just plain went bad. Most of you reading this are like [email protected]#n I did that. it's ok life is a lesson and every day we learn something new. I know I learn everyday!

Coils are tough units. As in all applications, Pwc, ATV, Motorcycles & Cars, these rarely fail. There are a few times when they do, but, it’s not usually the case. The triples do not get an updated coil when getting an ignition upgrade kit. I think I have seen maybe 5 bad coils in Polaris pvl ignitions for the triples. There is a newer version of the coils red podded being older and black podded newer version with sockets for the high tension leads (spark plug wires). Both are very good units. The 700 twins got new coils/wires with there kits. This was needed for the 700's. The newer version has sockets for the high tension leads and has wings to lie in the electrical box.

Ok, so know you are armed with the major components of this system. There are a few other things in it but that will be for later. So let’s start!!!!!!

You have no spark!

Grab a multi-meter (if you don't have one you can get them anywhere starting about 30.00 and will help you out in the long run with many things on your pwc.

Do you have a good battery? Must be fully charged and be at least 10.6 vdc while cranking your unit (measured at battery). A bad battery will drive even the best techs nuts. Charge and load check them when you have a no spark condition. Make sure they have fluid in them or they will die like us. . Usually you will see a spark when you let off the start button if the battery is weak

[2&4strokepolaristech]

4 Stroke Polaris Service

here is the procedure for oil changes in the msx 4 stroke 110/150 watercraft. the valve lash inspection/adjustment is also in the team tip but the tool has been updated. if anyone needs the tool we can order them and stock all the listed shims. also have 99% of 4 stroke parts in stock during the busy season. rebuilt turbos/engines as well. also i listed the procedure for intercooler removal while engine in boat.
the oil level that they show you on the dipstick is WRONG! do not fill above the add .5 liter mark. that is your new full mark. anywhere from just on the stick to that mark is good.trust me i do alot with the 4 strokes. also make sure that you do not run the engine for more than 45 seconds without water. it will cook the exhaust temp sensor and will give you false readings. make sure to run boat in reverse when out of water and do not screw in dipstick.

[dorf]

Mikuni Fuel Pump

Maybe you can use this explanation in your tech section....

The Why and the How of the Polaris Mikuni 3 Output Fuel Pump

From :Performance Motor Sports, Fort Wayne , Indiania- 4/6/04

( I don't know if they are still in business or not)


I will try to tell you in short terms the problem with the stock pump, and fuel line routing. If you look at the stock pump it is a single outlet pump that feeds out to the end of the carb rack. The fuel under pressure from the pump goes into the first carb body and fill the chamber then floes out of the chamber to fill the center carb and at the same time keeping the first carb chamber full. It now fills the second chamber and then flows out to the front carb and tries to fill it. Remember while its trying to fill the front carb it is trying to maintain the fuel level in the other 2 carb chambers. When Polaris first designed this the stock pump was adequate when the pumps were at new condition. Polaris started having piston problems in a little over 2 years from the dates of the manufacture of the watercraft, or once the fuel pumps started to loose some of there efficiency.
In 1996 we worked with the Polaris factory to diagnose the problem. What we found was the fuel pressure and volume had changed from when the pumps were new. That is why they changed the pumps on the 780 SLX's. A bulletin was sent out to all Polaris Dealers to redo the Fuel line routing in an attempt to eliminate the problem. That worked until the pumps continued to loose efficiency and then the piston problems came back.

SO that's where we came in and came up with the triple outlet pump and feeding each carb individually. Regardless as all the People that think they know on the internet, if you had a new single pump and had the correct fuel line routing they will work fine, but the issue us not knowing how soon the pump looses it effect, and its not worth taking the chance. We use to sell just the pump, but then people would not hook them up correctly, use the wrong size fuel line, and we spent countless hours on the phone answering questions. We decided that we would only sell the complete kit. It comes with the new pump ($30) Correct size actual fuel line(Not from the hardware store) tywraps and plugs to redo the fuel routing, and detailed pictured instructions on how to install it. The timeframe to install it is under 1 hour. The Kits price is $55.99 plus shipping.

There is know diagnoses for it, but the facts are that if you don't redo it you stand a VERY good chance that you will burn a piston, but nobody can tell you when. This change eliminates the fuel volume as a factor and is alot less expensive then pistons.
We don't have a website finished yet, as we have been so busy that there's been no time to complete it. We do accept Paypal and ship within 24 hours of receiving notification of payment from Paypal
If you would like a kit then email us your address and we will get you the final cost for your payment thru paypal.
You can also call us @ 260-637-7953

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Juice - Nitrous Oxide engine boost system, technical info

I guess this is where I should post this. JUICE! I could careless about the sea-doo this is for the technical info.

Ph2ocraft please resize or move this if it will help. 6 pages all together.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Juice cont..

Juice

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Juice the END

End

[2&4strokepolaristech]

Winterization

O.K. I know the colder weather is here for the most of us. Here are some winterazation procedures that you sould do to your PWC. Please use this information along with your factory service manual and or owners manual. I will list here as well what we do in the northeast to keep them nice and protected through some cold months(Ireally hope it snows like hell!!)

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Spark Plug Reading

Spark Plug Reading, excellent info.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Impeller info

impeller stuff,

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Bilge Kit part 1

Bilge Kit install this is from a 94 kit. I wouldn't use the exit locations (page 5), but the wiring and pump mounting is all here.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Bilge Kit Part 2

I put my exit as close as I could to the same location as my SLX without removing the rear grab bar cause I'm lazy like that and didn't want to take it off.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Factory port specs

Factory port specs

[Polaris_Nut#1]

Some engine specs

Some engine specs, I scanned 3 pages. The third one I did twice and tried to convert it's format. Maybe I should have done that on all the other files??? see what happens I guess.

Edit: OK guy, I guess I figured out how to scan and convert to jpg. That was tough, just change the file type when you do save as DUH! Sorry I didn't figure that out sooner. I'll convert all my scans from now on. Maybe we can get Ph2ocraft or some guru to clean up this section and convert them old files?

[beerdart]

Detonation, Carb tuning, triple pipe exhaust explanation

These are from Factory Pipe.