Tech Library

[beerdart]

Converted

[dorf]

SL750(& others)Pump Bearing & Seals Replacement Instructions

'95 SL 750, How to Do, a Jet Pump Bearing/Seal Replacement

Replacing the bearings and seals is pretty straight forward job if you have the proper tools.
After removing the pump assy from the ski, disassemble far enough to get the rear cone off. Put it in a vise, and using the special tool (about $10.00) remove the impeller, (cc/w).

You can now punch out the bearings and seals by using about a 6-8 inch long punch (using a good size hammer). There is ample room to move the spacer around, it seems easier to go through the middle of it vs. the side of it (Clymer) to drive them out.

Next de-grease and clean up the housing.

Put housing in an oven for about 45 minutes that was pre-heated to 212 degrees F.

While this is heating, put the bearings in a freezer for about the same length of time.

Now it is ready to assemble. The bearings will almost slide in with hand pressure; you might have to nudge with a hammer/socket (pushing on the outer race). Don't forget to install the spacer.

When both bearings are in, let it cool for a while. Insert the first forward seal (socket/hammer on out side edges of seal) pack marine grease in the cavity (between the seals) and install the next seal.

Installing the impeller requires the special tool(same one used for the removal) and a torque wrench that go to 100 foot-pounds.

Assemble the rest with all new seals.

Total cost for this project was around $100.00(using all Polaris seals/bearings)

[beerdart]

Polaris Service bulletin's 1992-1996

Thanks to Al

[dorf]

SL 750 Cylinder Exchange &Oil Pump Block-Off How to

1995 SL 750 Cylinder Exchange -Oil Pump Block-Off


This is a Primer on accomplishing cylinder/oil pump removal, with the engine installed in a 1995 Ski……. Warning !, Warning !…… Do not attempt this unless you have an excellent supply of metric tools, sockets, extensions (both ?? and 3/8 drive), mechanical intuition and experience. (That’s just my opinion, though)

This work was accomplished as Preventative Maintenance. Cylinder compressions were 95 and falling. I found #1 and 3 cylinders and pistons scored and the rings were stuck/seized. It was a wise decision. Bottom end seemed tight with no rod play.

Purchase a Clymer manual. It took me two, eight hours days to accomplish all of this.

Cylinders:
Everything is pretty much straight forward. Initially it was impossible to remove the piston pins. I had to fabricate a tool as described in Clymer. I started with ?? threaded rod. It didn’t work. I then switched to 5/16, which worked OK.

The Engine was disassembled on a Sunday. Parts were ordered on Monday. Parts arrived on Wed. Engine was ready to run on Friday. That’s pretty fast. (At least by my experience) Break in to the 90% throttle accomplished on Sunday.

Be aware, you have to remove your cylinder studs and transfer to the new cylinders. The double nut method worked fine. (Hardware stores have a vast assortment of metric stuff)

Installation of the piston/pins is easier if you install one clip in the piston and then install the piston/pin followed by the other clip.

I used Permatex Hi-Tack spray on the paper gaskets and Permatex spray Copper Gasket on the metal head gaskets. (O’Reilly Auto Parts).

Be sure to torque everything as instructed.(Seems like it takes more torque, than you would logically apply).

I used 3 guide pins (which are longer correct size bolts with the heads cut off) to align the exhaust manifold to the cylinders in a dry fit to ensure everything was squared up before torquing the cylinder hold down nuts. Installing the exhaust and water manifold is a real bear to get all to align up. The pins help immensely.








Oil Pump


Removing the oil pump is do-able but…. Extremely! , Extremely ! ….difficult, as you have to use a combination of mirrors to see. Be aware the Allen head bolts that hold the pump in place are Metric. Drain the tank before you remove the oil lines.

I first tried to seal the Block-Off Plate using an O-ring, but discovered that just would not work.( Couldn’t get hands in there). I finally used thin gasket material (per call to SBT), (made a gasket) coating all sides with RTV, which sealed OK.

I also wired in, a 33-35 ohm resistor in the oil indicator line to fool the MFD. ( I don’t know if the engine would start if the oil tank was empty or not since my MFD does not work)

Finally, 1st start was good..---Break-in to the 90% throttle position went well, except I had to change the sparkplugs after the 1st 20% throttle position.
Since this was a cylinder exchange and oil pump block off I had mixed 40 oz. of oil plus squirting some oil down the carbs for good measure.

So far so good. Everything went according to plan.

I hope all of this helps someone.

As a follow-up,.... this work was done last summer(2005)This Fall (2006)before winterizing compressions were 135 on all three.

[beerdart]

28" Sponson Install

Thank to Nut for this.

[Polaris_Nut#1]

28 inch install updated

Thanks Beerdart! I have added some photos on that think also. I was just coming here to post the install. Man you're fast. http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=14419

[beerdart]

Polaris Fuji Oil Block-off Slug

Oil Pump block Off Slug. Blockoff Kit

[beerdart]

Oil Pump block Off Slug. Blockoff Kit

Added a O-Ring groove for better sealing.

[ZMANN]

Cool! the one I have from hot products is actually tapered instead of stepped and was a tad to long it hindered the sealing of the cap! so I shortened it and also put to shallow 1/8 holes in it so I could actually remove it easier! I like you cap! good work as usual! Z

[beerdart]

Fuji Gaskets Full Size

Fuji Base gasket, Reed Block gasket, Pro 44mil Carb gasket and Pro Exhaust Valve gasket

[beerdart]

Carb tuning From groupK

*

[beerdart]

Unit conversion program

The best that I have found

Convert is an easy to use unit conversion program that will convert the most popular units of distance, temperature, volume, time, speed, mass, power, density, pressure, energy and many others, including the ability to create custom conversions!

http://joshmadison.net/software/convert/

[beerdart]

Polaris Trim Kit Installation

Polaris Trim Kit Instructions Installation with drill template.

[beerdart]

Flow Calculator's

Excell spreadsheets for calulating flow and pressure drop

[CrazyA]

Simple Return Line Restrictor

This is probably the easiest and best way to make one, or redo one that gets thrown out by accident on the older models where they are in the fuel line.

1) 1/4" hose barb splicer (I like the brass, but it will work on all three of these examples)

2) 5 X .75 Tap

3) Mikuni main jet of appropiate size

From Randy @ Watcon:
Most Polaris watercraft can use a Mikuni main jet #90. That is merely a starting point, and will require further testing by the tuner. An average range is #60 - #100 Mikuni high speed jet. It can be installed anywhere between the carbs & the fuel tank.

4) 2 stainless hose/Otiker clamps

- Tap hose barb splicer. Make sure any and all debri/burrs are cleaned up.

- Install jet of choice and place in fuel line

- Install clamps

This really works well and is very simple to do. Best of all, it gives you endless adjustability. Now that I did three this morning just for this post, who needs one??