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How to remove and re-install the Polaris 148mm jet pump
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I just took my drive shaft out to replace the through hull bearing because it's shot and leaking very badly. Upon inspecting the drive shaft it's got some groves in it but not enough to catch your finger nail on do I need to replace this or do you think I can smooth it out with some emery cloth? -
Tool
What kind of homemade tool did you use? Im short on time and dont have time to wait on getting the actual tool.
ThanksLeave a comment:
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Great write up! Lots of great information on this site. I have a 1993 SL750 that has apparently had the jet pump assembly replaced once with a newer 148mm one by the previous owner. The stator bearings rusted out, self-destructed, and ate up the impeller and wear ring (ouch). There was probably a 1/8" gap (or more) between the impeller and chewed up wear ring. No wonder it was so sluggish and boggy!
Anyway, I bought a pump base/stator assembly from a 1995 SLT750 that has minimal wear (.006" clearance from impeller to ring). I am in the process of replacing it (replacing bearings and seals as well), but was wondering how to go about replacing the pump base/wear ring, as that is not covered. Any caveats and tricks to make life easier? It doesn't seem like there's a lot of play in any one direction in the base-to-hull mounting holes, so is alignment a concern? Seems like alignment is more to do with shimming the motor mounts, and is vertical.
Also, how do I remove the driveshaft from the engine - is that rubber - do I just pull hard? With the shaft in the machine and a large wrench on the coupler, I've been able to remove the impeller without the special tool.
Thanks so much for any advice - this site is great when you own an oldie like mine - I've sure learned a lot about it!Leave a comment:
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Not all Polaris jet-pumps have the bolts all the way thru the transom.
The "new style" pumps have blind studs that hold the pump housing to the hull.
You can see the new style & a parts breakdown here:http://www.weberpower.com/weber-jet-propulsion.html
The Weber parts & tools are interchangeable with the Polaris 148mm "Domestic" pump assy.
Best regards,
RandyLeave a comment:
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its easier to remove pump shoe to drill them out.the holes are all the way thru.4 nuts and a couple of hosesLeave a comment:
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Got a Polaris Virage TX 2001 jet pump where 2 of the 4 bolts are broken from the previous owner, is it possible to drill them out ?
or do i have to buy a new one ?Leave a comment:
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Welcome partshunter.
What failed exactly? Did the splines themselves strip, or did the coupler have a rubber insert that let go?
How did you do the engine to jet pump alignment?Leave a comment:
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Sugar sand boat--Polaris engine and pump
Installed a jet pump from a polaris in a sugar sand boat--Sugar sand used polaris engine and pump parts. After running on water splines on the Drive shaft spun on the coupler. I aligned the pump the way i thought it should be but must of been wrong. Any ideas on what i should try next time.Leave a comment:
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Brilliant! Very detailed, thank you K447 for taking the time to do this!Leave a comment:
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I just wanted to post up this is a brilliant guide
Ill be doing this job myself tomorrow as i have taken the day off work to do it, i was really worried until i found this thread
Thanks K447 for going to the effort of doing it, its really gonna help me tomorrow and it has helped settle my nerves toLeave a comment:
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What year is your ski? Does it have both reverse and trim? Is the reverse electronic or manual? I've always wanted both, but with the early SLs you had to choose one or the other....and I choose trim over reverse.
I'm wondering if I could retrofit that reverse gate on to one of my SL hulls...Leave a comment:
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Reverse rod reconnection
Make sure swivel at the end of each cable is not twisted, then re-connect.
To retain the reverse pin in pace, I prefer to use cotter rings rather than the stock split cotter pins.
YouTube - Polaris PWC 148mm jet pump - reverse rod reconnection
Last edited by K447; 05-23-2011, 09:39 PM.Leave a comment:
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