new AGM batt install in 2002 polaris fredom now have fire 9volts to brown wire on cdi

[Ynot63]

the agm battery was recomended by k447 awsome battery here is what i got( other then getting my self confuse on some steps )
#1 tested stator assembly with 9v battery= green wire and red wire turn by hand, read peak times 80.0 ohms some 24 then it drop quick
#2 checked brown wire while cranking from cdi=9v(after new agm battery)0 VOLTS with other new battery
#3 check red/purple//orange wire from cdi= 11.40 volts while cranking (after new agm battery)10.3 with other new battery
#4 all black wires have zero ohms
#5 replace new plugs NGK bpr8es
#5 replace pvl ignition wires from Polaris (ONLY) THANKS K447
#6 replace ignition coil or coil pack=broke ignition coil legs where the boots from ignition wires go (push twist and pull)
CONFUSION STARTED AFTER THIS
#1 I'm confuse on the orange cluster where the cdi red to purple goes. it shows .25 ohms. just with multimeter, 0 VOLTS not cranking
#2 on coil pack black and white wires connected both wires from tester shows 0 volts and 10.5 volts engine ground to each white black wire(cranking)
#3 wash freedom there was black sludge on back end like water and oil mix
NO FIRE ON SPARK PLUGS

[K447]

Confirm all electrical box wires are where they should be connected. Make sure connections are tight and no wires are pinched or damaged.

Lanyard in place?

Hold Bilge button down, crank engine. Do you have spark?

[Ynot63]

electrical box has a lot of grease looks new

[Ynot63]

checked 11 wires on cdi part#4010803 3 go to terminal blk/y,grey,red/purple//orange 2 blk/w to coil pack one mark with green tape
checked 7 wires on lr-505 3 to ground on lr/cdi bracket.the rest to terminal part#4010676
took stator wire looked at pins and electrical box side looked good
have 2 spare fuses only small goes to bilge pump the larger fuse don't know cant find (maybe for different model )
all wires look new at ends will keep searching may take the heat protectors off to look see if any are damage inside
clean engine block grounds
bypass lr-505 no fire while cranking
lanyard on/bilge pump on/crank no fire with one spark plug grounded to engine ground, several places
rechecked fire on brown wire still 9 volts cdi orange still 11.40 while cranking
found out from my kids of course in 2002 with 5 hrs on ski they forgot to double check the drain plugs while in lake engine flooded, but worked good till end of summer,started bogging down after a few hours took to Polaris dealer, they had it for more then six months they replace all of the wires that have end caps,worked good after i got it no problems till i hooked battery backwards this July 2013.
do i need to check inside the flywheel to check all wires inside even if green and red show good

[K447]

checked 11 wires on cdi part#4010803 3 go to terminal blk/y,grey,red/purple//orange 2 blk/w to coil pack one mark with green tape
checked 7 wires on lr-505 3 to ground on lr/cdi bracket.the rest to terminal part#4010676
took stator wire looked at pins and electrical box side looked good
have 2 spare fuses only small goes to bilge pump the larger fuse don't know cant find (maybe for different model )
all wires look new at ends will keep searching may take the heat protectors off to look see if any are damage inside
clean engine block grounds
bypass lr-505 no fire while cranking
lanyard on/bilge pump on/crank no fire with one spark plug grounded to engine ground, several places
rechecked fire on brown wire still 9 volts cdi orange still 11.40 while cranking

found out from my kids of course in 2002 with 5 hrs on ski they forgot to double check the drain plugs while in lake engine flooded, but worked good till end of summer ,started bogging down after a few hours took to Polaris dealer, they had it for more then six months they replace all of the wires that have end caps,
worked good after i got it no problems till i hooked battery backwards this July 2013.

do i need to check inside the flywheel to check all wires inside even if green and red show good

Hang on - Did this machine ever work after the battery was connected backwards?

Reverse battery polarity can cook the electronics. You may need a new CDI.

[Ynot63]

was checking fire today and tested yellow cluster both had 12.60 volts, unplugged both of them. one coming from stator wire is reading 12.58 volts unplugged and the other yellow from lr is also reading 12.58 unplugged is that normal for charging system to stay on like a hot wire from stator and lr wire. install lanyard and removed same results.was reading your post most of the day trying to find something on yellow wire from stator assym. is a charging wire,or did i hit it just right on fly wheel where it stays on.

[Ynot63]

yes brought it home, hooked water and it started, i thought it was cold, ran for about 1hr. or so not great it would bogged down at full throttle but it was running most of the day. at nite when i tried too show it off to my son in law, it didn't start, till this day same story ( July the 2nd)

[K447]

yes brought it home, hooked water and it started, i thought it was cold, ran for about 1hr. or so not great it would bogged down at full throttle but it was running most of the day. at nite when i tried too show it off to my son in law, it didn't start, till this day same story ( July the 2nd)

I am still not following you.

Please be clear about the sequence of events.

[Ynot63]

Sorry. I have it in storage,where I work in a paint shop, about every two weeks I started ski about 10sec,started all winter with no problems,have to use choke,I replace the battery in this July hooked backwards, i heard the bilge pump turn on by its self,about 5 min passed looking for short on bilge pump .then I knew what i did . disconnected battery. Took it home. Wash it, then I plugged the flush kit,started ski it ran OK, but it seem like didn't have enough water running thru it,like when your at the lake an weeds plug you up. IT WOULD RUN RUFF AT HIGH THROTTLE.I let it idle for about 1hr.turn it off,came back an hour later it was hard to start,checked plugs it had fire.THE FIRE SEEM WEAK LIKE ORANGE NOT BLUE(READ YOUR POST ON THAT TOO),clean plugs,then It started but it would run fine at idle.when I would rev engine up it seem real ruff at high throttle,I did this for about 6 hrs. ALL THIS TIME I THOUGH I HAD TOO GET THE COBWEBS OUT.GAS IS A YEAR OLD.then a small of amount of black sludge came from back end turned it off. the jet-ski never started again I know now that I shouldn't leave water on when JET ski is turned off. only cause I read post on green hulk.thanks again k447 especially your patience.don't give up on me man lol.SOME TIMES YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU GOT TILL IT WON'T TURN ON.

[K447]

Sorry. I have it in storage,where I work in a paint shop, about every two weeks I started ski about 10sec, started all winter with no problems,with choke on,

I replace the battery in July hooked backwards, bilge pump turn on by its self, about 5 min.then I knew. disconnected battery.

Took it home. Wash it, then I plugged the flush kit, started ski it ran ok, but it seem like didn't have enough water running thru it,like when your at the lake an weeds plug you up.let it idle for about 1hr.turn it off,

came back hr. later it was hard to start, checked plugs it had fire, clean plugs, then It started but it would run fine at idle. when I would rev engine up, it seem real ruff at high idle, I did this for about 6 hrs. then black sludge came from back end turned it off never started again

I know now that I shouldn't leave water on when ski is off, only cause I read post on green hulk

Well, here are my comments;

When in storage, a properly fogged engine does NOT need to be started once a month. Indeed, it does not need to be started at all while in storage. The heavy, sticky fogging oil protects the engine internally. The engine can sit almost indefinitely after being fogged.

Starting the cold engine and running it for a few seconds actually does harm, as the engine does not have a chance to properly warm up. If you fogged the engine for storage, running the engine burns off the fogging oil. If you did not fog the engine, then the short running time creates combustion by products that can be acidic, and the rich gasoline mixture can actually dilute the protective oil film and allow moisture in the engine to attack the steel bearings.

Read up on correct off-season (winter) storage practices.

Unless the jet pump and driveshaft are removed, the maximum run time on the garden hose is about two minutes. Extended running time on the hose overheats the rubber seal lips in the jet pump and the through-hull bearing. It sounds like you ran the engine on the hose for hours, which is way too long. I expect you now need to rebuild the through-hull bearing and the jet pump stator, at least replace the seals.

Running on the garden hose does not provide full engine cooling. Typically one cylinder gets much less water cooling than the others with the reverse flush hose connection. Often the front (MAG) cylinder is the hottest. Extended run time on the garden hose is hard on the engine, and usually not necessary.

Most diagnostics and checks can be done without a garden hose connection, and the total time from engine start, diagnostics check, and engine shut down can be under 20 seconds.

For the rare test situation where the engine must run longer than about 30 seconds, the garden hose lets you run for a couple of minutes, total time. Again, most diagnostics can be done well within this short time.

As you now know, the garden hose water must be flowing only when the engine is already running. Allowing the hose to flow when the engine is off will allow water to accumulate inside the exhaust pipe and then back flow into the engine itself through the open exhaust ports. Once you have water inside the engine, you have trouble.

If the engine is cranked with water inside, the piston can trap water in the combustion chamber and hydraulically lock (hydro lock). If this happens, even when just cranking the engine on the battery, the result can be a cracked or damaged piston, perhaps a bent connecting rod. Significant engine damage.

Electrically, having the battery hooked up backwards is stressful on the electronic modules. Even if the engine started after you corrected the battery polarity, it is still possible that the module(s) were damaged and have now failed.

Summary of potential damage;

• Drive line and jet pump seals friction melted
• CDI and/or LR module may be damaged
• Engine internal damage possible from hydro locking
• Water may still be sitting inside the engine, possible crank bearing rusting
• Engine was repeatedly started and run for short periods of time during storage, engine was not fogged before storage. Possible cylinder wall rusting, possible crank bearing rust due to oil film dilution

[Ynot63]

thanks for all the info k447,I have lot's of work to do and check on my Polaris,i wish they would have told me at least a 1/3 at Polaris dealer ship,but you have taken your time,and patience,to help me.they filled the Polaris with gas and oil mix in fuel tank and the oil tank and told me to run it half speed for at least 10 hrs .breaking period,(not blaming no one but me). will read up on storage practices ,and report on final inspection when i get the freedom running. will start searching for how to take 700cc red engine apart.