Manual bilge pump button for MSX without Bilge button

[Mr. GP1800]

I just discovered one small quirk in this system. If the gauge is showing RPM and you hold the blue button down long enough it changes the units of measurement on the gauge to Canadian.

[K447]

I just discovered one small quirk in this system If the gauge is showing RPM and you hold the blue button down long enough it changes the units of measurement on the gauge to Canadian.

So it also makes the ski faster!

[Mr. GP1800]

We should sticky this in the How to section. I just was referencing this again to do the same for my Matrix project. Really good info here.

[ripcuda]

Good thread. I'm considering putting a bilge pump in my MSX 150. I like how you guys have done it on the MSX 140.

My only question is which wire on the MSX 110/150 would I use for the Yellow signal wire into the LR-52?

Here's the charging system on the Weber.



Cheers!

[K447]

I am not familiar with Weber electrical. If there is an 'engine is running' 12 volt signal you might be able to use that directly, without any LR module at all.

[Mr. GP1800]

Good thread. I'm considering putting a bilge pump in my MSX 150. I like how you guys have done it on the MSX 140.

My only question is which wire on the MSX 110/150 would I use for the Yellow signal wire into the LR-52?

Here's the charging system on the Weber.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]352445[/ATTACH]

Cheers!

I would say whatever wire feeds the RPM signal for the tach on the dash. To my knowledge, the MSX 140 and 110/150 MFIs function exactly the same, except for the oil level for the 140 and the fake boost gauge on the 110/150s. So if you pull your your feed off the same wire that feeds the tach, I think it would work.


Here is my setup...

http://www.greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=192367&page=9&p=2321941&viewfull=1#post2321941

If you look in the second pic, you see an orange and a yellow wire coming out of the main harness. The yellow taps into the yellow wire in the harness that feeds the RPM signal to the tach on the gauge. The orange wire is tapped into the orange/black wire that feeds from the mode button for gauge, with the diode inline. I then used an inline fuse holder for an automotive blade style fuse in a rubber sealed case.

I built the whole thing using various Weatherpack connectors, so it all becomes plug and play.

[ripcuda]

If there is an 'engine is running' 12 volt signal you might be able to use that directly, without any LR module at all.

Out of the main relay, there are a lot of "switched" 12v that the ECU turns on. Like the fuel pump, O2 sensor, coils, etc.. These all come on as the engine is starting. Would you use that as a power source for a bilge pump w/o an LR module (w/ a fuse)?

I would say whatever wire feeds the RPM signal for the tach on the dash. To my knowledge, the MSX 140 and 110/150 MFIs function exactly the same, except for the oil level for the 140 and the fake boost gauge on the 110/150s. So if you pull your your feed off the same wire that feeds the tach, I think it would work.

Yeah, I have a Grey wire from the ECU that feeds the display for the tach signal. So this would work for the Yellow trigger for the LR module... cool. I like your setup... thanks for sharing.

Cheers!

[K447]

If there is an 'engine is running' 12 volt signal you might be able to use that directly, without any LR module at all.

Out of the main relay, there are a lot of "switched" 12v that the ECU turns on. Like the fuel pump, O2 sensor, coils, etc.. These all come on as the engine is starting. Would you use that as a power source for a bilge pump w/o an LR module (w/ a fuse)?

I would evaluate whether each switched 12 volt source could handle the extra electrical load of the bilge pump and still have a few amps headroom.

If in doubt I would use a marine grade sealed relay and inline fuse to separately feed battery power to the bilge pump.

You may need two diodes to ensure full isolation of the handlebar switch and the 'engine is running' 12 volt feed to the relay coil. You don't want either one to back feed the other source.

[Mr. GP1800]

If you build what i did you will be pulling 12 volts straight off the battery to feed the LR. The other harness i built to connect the LR has 3 wires. Red black and yellow. Red and black come directly to the battery. Yellow plugs into the yellow coming out of the main harness. Look at the pic of my LR and see where those wires all connect.

[ripcuda]

If in doubt I would use a marine grade sealed relay and inline fuse to separately feed battery power to the bilge pump.

Isn't the LR-52 (not all LR modules) just a marine grade sealed relay? It takes constant power (R/Pur), ground (BLK), trigger (Y) and outputs switched power (O) [ and R/W? ]

I like the relay idea best. I don't want to risk drawing power off other circuits and I can then isolate the dedicated bilge pump fuse like Bryan did.

Cheers!

[K447]

If in doubt I would use a marine grade sealed relay and inline fuse to separately feed battery power to the bilge pump.

Isn't the LR-52 (not all LR modules) just a marine grade sealed relay?
It takes constant power (R/Pur), ground (BLK), trigger (Y) and outputs switched power (O) [ and R/W? ]

I like the relay idea best. I don't want to risk drawing power off other circuits and I can then isolate the dedicated bilge pump fuse like Bryan did.

Cheers!

Yes, the LR-52 does function like a relay.

In my mind the primary differences are;
The LR-52 uses an electronic device (power transistor, probably FET type) rather than an electromechanical relay to actually switch the bilge pump power feed (Orange wire output)

The input to the LR-52 is the 'Yellow' RPM signal that also feeds the NGI/MFI tachometer, rather than a direct 12 volt DC signal 'accessory power' source to the relay coil.

Both methods will work, of course. Which one to choose in part depends on how the wiring harness is configured for ease of modification, and which parts you have ready access to.

Note: An alternate to the LR-52 for this application is the LR-503 as used on Ficht engines (Virage and Genesis). LR-503 can also provide the switched Orange wire output given the MSX (all models) Yellow tachometer input.

Do not use the LR-505 which is used on carburetor engines (Virage and Genesis) as the Yellow wire function is different.