How to disassemble, clean, rebuild, and reassemble trim motors

[BlueFishCrisis]

Replacement motor side by side with OEM.



Replacement seals side by side with OEM. Replacement on the Right. They are sitting on the replacement's box.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Time for reinstall. The order of installation is very important down to the last washer.

This is the OEM motor and gear, not the replacement. The reassembly contains pics from both of my trim assemblies.







Install the small spacer on top of the lower left gear next.



Install the thin washer on the bottom of the output gear.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Install the output gear and shaft. Don't forget the collar.



Next two gears





Install the larger spacer on the gear next to the output shaft.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Finally install the thicker washer on the top of the output gear. Obviously, the gear was already installed but this shows the washer better..



Reassembly complete.



This gearbox has the new motor installed. Note the shaft is larger, and has a flat spot ground onto the output shaft. Only about half of the output shaft has a flat spot ground on it. When you install the new pinion, push it down to about 1/8" away from the motor bushing. This seats it on the fully round output shaft snugly, and aligns it with the mating gear in the box.



Be sure to adequately grease the gears before reassembling the case halves.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Install the cover. If the halves don't close completely, you have a spacer or washer missing or in the wrong spot.



Install the four screws holding the cases together.



Install the 4 screws holding the mounting plate to the gear case.



Install the new seal the same way the old was removed. I used a 12mm deep socket to seat it. There are no grooves or steps to seat the seal to. The bushing on the gear case gives the seal a place to rest when you are seating it.

[BlueFishCrisis]

Seal installed. Note the back of the seal is now flush with the back of the mounting plate.



Install the actuator arm and spring.

[BlueFishCrisis]

I used a C clamp again to press the arm down so I could re-install the pin.



Install the O-ring, attach the motor leads paying close attention to the correct polarity. (not sure if the connections in the photo are accurate). Install install the cover with the 5 screws and loctite.



Rebuild Complete!!!

The arm on the rebuilt motor appears to move at the same speed as the OEM. This rebuilt motor is going to be installed in a project ski that hasn't yet started, so I can not yet confirm sync with the MFD, but it sure looks close!

[K447]

Very well done thread!

[BlueFishCrisis]

And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....

[waterdog1971]

And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....

I'm surprised my fuse wasn't blown because like I said, I had to put the gear end in the vice and turn the motor housing back and forth a little at a time and it broke loose, I was just curious really, I was planning on buying a replacement but it works great so it's good to go.

[BlueFishCrisis]

And for those keeping track, the maximum draw of the rebuilt motor when it hits the end stops does not exceed 500 mA. The locked up motor in the ski was drawing just over 3A, which caused the fuse to blow.....

I'm surprised my fuse wasn't blown because like I said, I had to put the gear end in the vice and turn the motor housing back and forth a little at a time and it broke loose, I was just curious really, I was planning on buying a replacement but it works great so it's good to go.

If it's out, it might be worth while to spend the $15 bucks and replace the seal and motor..... I'll be at least replacing the shaft seal on every one I pull from now on...... If the motor is corroded, water is getting in. I might even toss a dessicant pack in with the motor....

[waterdog1971]

That's a good point but I've already got it back in there now so I'll go ahead and get the motor and seal ordered and have it on hand for when it does finally go, thanks for posting the links for the motor and seal too.

[Mr. GP1800]

Also note the collar on the output shaft.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]335739[/ATTACH]


With all parts removed, you can see the two screws securing the motor. If the motor is seized, remove these two screws.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]335740[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]335741[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]335742[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]335743[/ATTACH]

Mabuchi RS-555SH is no longer available. I have ordered a Mabuchi RS-555PH as a replacement.

This completes disassembly.

Nice......$3.25 for a replacement motor!!!!

[K447]

A lot of effort went into preparing and documenting the rebuild process. Nicely done, all around!

Polaris called all their electric trim systems Quick Trim. The gearbox documented here is a regular speed trim system, which Polaris labels as a 3 RPM unit in the parts cross reference.

The 'fast' trim gearboxes run at roughly double the speed of the regular speed trim. Polaris labels these as 6 RPM trim motors.

I think somebody pulled one apart a while back and posted photos of the internals.

Perhaps some day day a similar thread can be done for the fast trim motors. The Pro and SLX owners would be appreciative, I hope.

[Mr. GP1800]

I think the only difference between the two motors is in the gearbox itself. Probably a slightly different arrangement of gears to double the output speed.