2002 polaris virage txi won't stay running

[Caliski]

Hey guys first post. Just joined and have read a bunch of posts on troubleshooting this polaris injection system.
But I'm still having trouble. 2002 virage txi 1200 direct injection ski. Compression psi front to back is 125 125 105. Fuel pressure is at 25 psi cranking and running. Even though it will only run for 2 to 3 seconds then die. Tried unplugging tps and it still will not idle. Checked the 45 volts system by back probing at the emm. Voltages jump around when cranking from 20v to 50 volts. When it starts voltage stays steady at 44.5 volts till it dies.

[Caliski]

im at a loss as to what to check next. everything seems good but it wont run more than 2 to 3 seconds. its driving me crazy

[K447]

Welcome

Do you have access to another Polaris watercraft with Ficht?

It is possible that the EMM needs repair. The best way to check is to swap in a known good EMM.

Where are you located? Update your Profile (top right corner of web site) with your location.

[Caliski]

I have no access to another emm. everyone I know rides kawis and yamahas. is it possible for it to get off time? it all started from the ski sucking up a rope and breaking the flywheel. replaced flywheel and check resistance on stator and tested good. so stator was not replaced.

[K447]

I have no access to another emm.

... is it possible for it to get off time?

it all started from the ski sucking up a rope and breaking the flywheel. replaced flywheel and check resistance on stator and tested good. so stator was not replaced.

The Ficht engine electronics are completely different from any other 2-stroke engine. Diagnostics are different and the common problems and repairs are different.

It is surprising that the flywheel would break from ingesting a rope into the jet pump. In what way did the flywheel break?

It is possible that the stator is only failing when the engine vibration affects the stator coils. It is also possible that the problem is elsewhere and only coincidental with the flywheel failure.

Are the correct spark plugs installed?

When it dies after starting does the spark go away before the RPM drops or after? I sometimes install three inline spark testers while testing so I can see what the ignition is doing.

[HiPeRcO]

For what its worth, I have two EMM's that won't run for more than a few seconds. So it could indeed be a bad EMM. Its also possible that you twisted the crankshaft during the rope ingestion. Or the flywheel isn't keyed correctly (or at all).

[martincom]

Welcome!

First off, I'm impressed. For a newbie, it is obvious you have done your homework and have become well educated on the DI system and diagnostics.

I would concur with K447 & HiPeRcO that your next step would be an EMM swap. If you can't find one to swap into your Txi, you probably need to send your EMM to someone who can test it. I'd probably suggest sending it to one of the repair vendors for a test, but someone with a working ski that is accessible in the off-season may be another option. While I can't say with certainty, I believe most repair vendors would do a test at no charge or little charge (Plus return shipping). However, while it's there, you might just as well have them replace the components known to fail. Assuming you plan on keeping it for awhile. The electrolytic capacitor are one of the common failures and they will produce the symptoms you described. Prior to it failing, how was it starting? Did it pop right off or did it seem to take some coaxing, with the throttle, to get it to start? Hard starting can be a precursor to an EMM capacitor(s) failure.

Does the CPS show any physical damage from the flywheel failure? Have you checked it with an ohm meter for the correct resistance and intermittents while flexing the leads and gently "thumping" it against the bench top?

It is a shot in the dark, but check the connections to the large capacitor and make sure they are secure. If they're loose, as soon as it starts the vibration would result in them making/breaking contact and that would put an extreme amount of hash on the power line, which would produce the symptoms you described.

[Caliski]

The magnets came off of the flywheel when the rope got caught. The spark is constant until it dies. Only have one tester but I tried it on all cylinders. I will check the flywheel again by removing it and making sure it's keyed right and everything looks good. Before this happened it would start perfect. Touch the start button and it would start right up and run perfectly. I tested the cost and it showed 145 ohms

[martincom]

If the spark is constant until it dies, I doubt if it is a flywheel issue,. Have you tried bypassing the LR module? See the link at the bottom of K447's post, above, for the procedure.

Did you repair or replace the flywheel? If you repaired, did you make sure you positioned/installed the magnets with the correct polarity?

[Caliski]

I will try and bypass that module tomorrow. It should be the 503 module right? Or the 505? Oh and in my last post it should have said the cps ohmed at 145

[Caliski]

I replaced the flywheel. I did not repair it

[K447]

I will try and bypass that module tomorrow. It should be the 503 module right? Or the 505? ...

LR-503 module on Ficht fuel injected engines.
LR-505 on carburetor engines.

These Start/Stop modules are only used on Virage and Genesis models (1999 Genesis was slightly different).

[Caliski]

Hey guys been a long couple of days. Finally got back to the ski. Checked the flywheel it was good and key was not sheared just to make sure. Removed cps and brought cylinder 1 up to TDC and checked flywheel it was spot on. Tried to bypass the LR module and it ran exactly the same. One thing I was thinking of is if I placed the injectors on the wrong cylinders would it run like that? I read somewhere on here they have to be in the right cylinder. And I can't remember if I left them attached to the fuel lines when I pulled the motor for flywheel replacement or I removed the fuel lines off the injectors and switched them up. And if they have to be in the right spot is there a way to tell where they go? Cause I saw on 2 injectors there was a certain number and on the third injector there was a different number. I might be sending the emm in to be looked at but man its pricey to get one fixed.

[HiPeRcO]

Mismatched injectors are not likely to cause a poor idle/stall issue, It's more likely to cause issues at high RPMS and load. The injector serial numbers can be read using Digital Wrench. If you send in your EMM you could ask them to tell you what serial numbers go where.

Seems your best bet is to send in your EMM for diagnosis. From what I've heard, if the EMM isn't bad there is no charge, but you should confirm.

[Jeff Lebowski]

Is it possible that the stator became damaged when the flywheel magnets broke?

Otherwise id suspect the EMM