1996 sl 900 stator visual id

[MrRogue]

Can anyone post up photo's of the physical differences in the two versions of the 1996 SL 900 Stator's ??

I've acquired a basket case from another shop and there's a pile of parts....

The stator that is out of the engine only has a few numbers on the back side.
STR1001
AD154300012
This was removed by previous person working on the craft and another "ebay" stator was installed.
after three years there at that shop... it's been brought to me.

I've gone through the entire fuel system from fuel cap to carb kits and everything in-between. It's all good now and is now delivering fuel correctly.
I also have compression and I have spark on all three spark-plugs.... BUT... the engine will only run on the REAR cylinder.
Cyl #1 and #2 ARE FIRING but I think they are not firing at the right degree and more likely closer to BDC not BTDC. THIS is why I think they bought the WRONG stator off ebay.....

The Ignition Control IS the newer 447, but I do not know what stator was installed into the engine so I need to ID the stator.
I know the 'newer' version stator SHOULD be 4010403 but I need to visually ID what is here before deciding to order a NEW 4010403 version.

CAN it be ID'd with ohm's reading's ? IF so... would the 'newer' reading match the later model craft stator like the year 2000 ign stator?


Thanks in advance.....

[casey67]

Yes the stator will test differently, the "update stator will measure as a 2000 and newer stator.

Update CDI ( 447) will ONLY work with update/2000 stator. These stators have 3 "fingers that ARE NOT wound with wire. The early stators have all fingers wound with wire.

All domestic 3cyl stators use the same 120deg "pick ups/sensors". The "update" stator is literally a 2000 1200cc stator MADE to fit the early engine front cover . ( wiring length/connecter and grommet design)

Most 96 900's had a different firing order- that is I'd ed by ignition coil part #.
I think the crank was also different. Timing can be identified by using the "single plug wire on every cyl-till runs " test, explained in K447's links.

[MrRogue]

These are what's in the mix.
The stator that was installed looks to already be the correct newer version.
There is spark on all three, there is fuel, there is good compression.
The engine runs but only the #3 rear cylinder is making heat at the cyl and exhaust. The other cyl #1 & #2 make no heat and the #1 & #2 plugs are still clean(new). The #3 plug has color as it's the only one that is pushing the crank over.

I did try swapping the primary coil wires around but nothing positive happened.

[MrRogue]

SL 900 parts working with..

[K447]

- swapping the primary coil wires around...

Better to do the single cylinder at a time test rather than swapping wire pairs.

Do not assume there is only one, or only two, problems happening at the same time. You may have ignition issue, carb issue (one or more cylinders), ignition coil issues, ignition wire problems, all simultaneously.

[MrRogue]

Oh yes I remember…. Polaris never show up with one issue
At least 4 to 6 issues at once..

tell me or link me to the single wire test information.
I read somewhere that the firing order could be different for this sl 900 and the ignition module and or the coil wiring order.

[K447]

- the single [cylinder at a time] wire test information.

I read somewhere that the firing order could be different for this sl 900 and the ignition module and or the coil wiring order.

Polaris domestic red engine 900 and 1050, possible mismatched crossed firing order

Single Cylinder at a time test, see these links

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=258294&p=2846794&viewfull=1#post2 846794

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=255874&p=2800940&viewfull=1#post2800940

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=254084&p=2784190&viewfull=1#post2784190

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=252532&p=2775388&viewfull=1#post2775388

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=251097&p=2756278&viewfull=1#post2756278

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=250444&p=2749558&viewfull=1#post2749558

http://greenhulk.net/showthread.php?t=249696&p=2747556&viewfull=1#post2747556

[casey67]

I read somewhere that the firing order could be different for this sl 900 and the ignition module and or the coil wiring order.

Your parts look to be correct ( Gen3 ignition/update)

That coil part # is the PVL #, different from what Polaris officially used.

The 2 coils can be determined by resistance of the secondary plug wire to ground, with plug boot removed.

polaris#4060138 - 96 models- 1240 ohms- firing order with box closed, sitting on top of battery ( plastic battery cover in place) 3-2-1 , left to right

polaris#4060153- all other domestic 3 cyl w/solid core plug wires- 1550 ohms - box on batt ,1-3-2 , left to right as viewed from rear of craft.

[MrRogue]

I just did the Single Cylinder Test. No run #1, No run #2, ...but Runs with #3 plug wire in place on cyl #3.

I also did the test of putting PTO plug wire from cyl#3 to cyl#2 with no running results.

This is strange. I usually can find and knock out Polaris issues. I am a bit stumped here......

Spark Test shows all three are firing.... Firing order still questionable.

Fuel system has just been completely gone through from tank to carbs with new lines and kits.
Fuel is fresh and getting into the cylinders.....
Initially the accelerator pump was not spraying but it is now.
PTO and CEN plug show spark but no fire in the cylinder is happening.

Battery is a new AGM of which I bought and trickle charge to 100% before using it. So it's defiantly getting more then the 10.6 minimum.

The engine did not run with the PTO plug wire on the CEN cyl.... something else is wrong here....

[K447]

I just did the Single Cylinder Test.
No run #1,
No run #2,

...but Runs with #3 plug wire in place on cyl #3.

I also did the test of putting PTO plug wire from cyl#3 to cyl#2 with no running results.

-

So you tried all three plug wires on cylinder #1 and none of them could fire that cylinder?

Same for cylinder #2, none of the plug wires would fire it?

[MrRogue]

That I didn’t try.
I’ll try that tomorrow morning.
I’ll swap out the primary coil wire / ignition module wires and just use the secondary coil with the long lead to do this.

[K447]

That I didn't try.
I'll try that tomorrow morning.
I'll swap out the primary coil wire / ignition module wires and just use the secondary coil with the long lead to do this.

Not following you with that.

The idea is to determine if the firing order of the mechanical engine is (mis)matched to the actual electronic firing order of the installed ignition.

With the entire ignition system hooked up 'normally', you disconnect all three spark plug wires. Then connect just one plug wire to MAG spark plug. See if engine will fire up. If yes, mark that wire as MAG.

If not, disconnect the first plug wire and connect the 'next' plug wire to the MAG spark plug. Does engine now fire?

If not, connect the remaining plug wire to the MAG spark plug. Does it fire?

When I do this I like to have an inline spark tester between each plug wire and the spark plug, so I can see that the installed plug is (or should be) sparking.

Once you have the MAG plug wire identified and labeled, disconnect from MAG spark plug and set it aside.

Take one of the two remaining plug wires and connect to the CEN spark plug. Does it fire up when cranked? If yes, mark that plug wire as CEN.

If not, take the remaining plug wire, connect it to CEN spark plug. Does it fire? If yes, mark that wire as CEN. Disconnect.

Take the only unlabeled plug wire and try it on the PTO spark plug. Does it fire the engine? It should.