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Hey all,
For the past 2 days I have been working on fixing my multi function display. I followed christian79's instruction (very well written) however after BARELY missing destroying my mfd during the process I had to reconsider my options. The one thing I was not a fan of with the current repair method was the fact that while prying the clear front off, the blade at times, came very close to the lcd screen and flexed it several times (makes those funny spots like when you touch a computer screen). For the life of me I could not get the clear screen seperated from the body of the display, and I am quite good with a dremel and this type of work. It appears that the processes during the making of these displays was sometimes off, because as you will see in a picture I will add tomrrow, there was an area of the front of the mfd that I would never haev gotten off because of some glue that was used.
I have developped a 2nd way of opening the mfd which does not look as professional as the current method, however you would never know the part had been worked on once back in the handle bar. I cut JUST BELOW the black plastic rim instead of between the black rim and the clear front. (I actually did cut between the rim and the clear screen, however I could not get it to work for me!) Here are the advantages to this new method:
1. you never need to get too close to electrical circuitry of the mode and set buttons (take a look at how close christian79 had to cut). Now that I think of it, the front bezel doesnt even need to be removed, since we are bypassing the whole area.
2. The method honestly takes 20 minutes, I actually did both on my unit and believe me, the cut between the lip and the clear front is terrifying when you take into consideration that these units arent made anymore and go for $$$$$
3. If you arent confident in your skills, my way is the way to go, it stays clear of all circuits and of the lcd screen, if you hit that screen with a dremel, its game over after all that effort (I nicked mine because I went too far)
4. I used marine goop to attach both pieces together again, this stuff is great to work with and almost feels like caulking while you use your finger to seal it all up. This method also makes reaccessing the circuit board again MUCH EASIER. Goop holds very well but can also be cut easily with a knife, wheras epoxy is super tough, and there you go prying on an already weakened front area again.
In all, the methods laid out by christian79 were perfect in every way, the cleaning and everything were spot on, I just wanted to give you guys a second option for what I think is the hardest step in the process. I will post the final product tomorrow as well as a picture of where I cut, all other pictures were well documented in the christian79 post.
Good luck
Callan
[Update by K447]
See this post for addition information and more photos.
For the past 2 days I have been working on fixing my multi function display. I followed christian79's instruction (very well written) however after BARELY missing destroying my mfd during the process I had to reconsider my options. The one thing I was not a fan of with the current repair method was the fact that while prying the clear front off, the blade at times, came very close to the lcd screen and flexed it several times (makes those funny spots like when you touch a computer screen). For the life of me I could not get the clear screen seperated from the body of the display, and I am quite good with a dremel and this type of work. It appears that the processes during the making of these displays was sometimes off, because as you will see in a picture I will add tomrrow, there was an area of the front of the mfd that I would never haev gotten off because of some glue that was used.
I have developped a 2nd way of opening the mfd which does not look as professional as the current method, however you would never know the part had been worked on once back in the handle bar. I cut JUST BELOW the black plastic rim instead of between the black rim and the clear front. (I actually did cut between the rim and the clear screen, however I could not get it to work for me!) Here are the advantages to this new method:
1. you never need to get too close to electrical circuitry of the mode and set buttons (take a look at how close christian79 had to cut). Now that I think of it, the front bezel doesnt even need to be removed, since we are bypassing the whole area.
2. The method honestly takes 20 minutes, I actually did both on my unit and believe me, the cut between the lip and the clear front is terrifying when you take into consideration that these units arent made anymore and go for $$$$$
3. If you arent confident in your skills, my way is the way to go, it stays clear of all circuits and of the lcd screen, if you hit that screen with a dremel, its game over after all that effort (I nicked mine because I went too far)
4. I used marine goop to attach both pieces together again, this stuff is great to work with and almost feels like caulking while you use your finger to seal it all up. This method also makes reaccessing the circuit board again MUCH EASIER. Goop holds very well but can also be cut easily with a knife, wheras epoxy is super tough, and there you go prying on an already weakened front area again.
In all, the methods laid out by christian79 were perfect in every way, the cleaning and everything were spot on, I just wanted to give you guys a second option for what I think is the hardest step in the process. I will post the final product tomorrow as well as a picture of where I cut, all other pictures were well documented in the christian79 post.
Good luck
Callan
[Update by K447]
See this post for addition information and more photos.
Get some pics up ASAP
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