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Power up the MFD.
Tip: If you want to do this without plugging it into the watercraft, see this thread;
Building a test jig for the 8-pin Polaris MFD
Press the Mode button to cycle through the various display modes. Confirm the display is working as expected and that both buttons are working reliably.
If you have to use excessive force on a button or press it several times before it responds, something is not right. Recheck the thin metallic strips on the underside of those ribbon cables. Sometimes they develop surface corrosion or even cracks and flaking. Also visually examine the backs of the button switches. If you see signs of corrosion or evidence of moisture, the switches are probably dying.
It is possible to pry the front bezel face away from the clear plastic panel. Look carefully at the back side of the bezel surround at each end. There is a thin access slot you can use to gently pry the rim slightly outwards and pop the entire face off.
This will allow you to see the fronts of the buttons, but they cannot easily be repaired.
Make note of the following links if your display has an inaccurate voltage reading or the hour counter needs to be reset.
How to Reset the Engine Hour counter on the oval Polaris MFD display
How to reset and calibrate MFD voltage display for ACCURATE voltage readings
Once you are happy with the clarity of the MFD display and the front panel buttons are working properly, it is time to seal it up.
My current method is to use fresh and well mixed five minute epoxy adhesive. Do not use old epoxy that has been opened years ago. It may not cure properly and the joint bond may be weak.
Once well mixed, I use a skinny applicator stick to spread a thin bead of epoxy all the way along the entire rim edge of the back case. It is critical that there be no gaps in the glue bead. You are creating a waterproof seal.
At the same time, do not blob excessive glue around. If you ever need to reopen the case, too much glue can cause problems.
Reconnect the connectors if they were unplugged. Place the small packet of dry Silica Gel desiccant (moisture absorbent) into the back of the MFD case.
Now guide the case into place and gently squeeze it against the face section. I use several tight rubber bands to hold it together while the epoxy hardens. I let it sit overnight or longer to be sure it has fully cured.
Other people use black RTV or marine silicone adhesive rather than epoxy.
Bear in mind that this seal must not only remain waterproof when the watercraft is pounding along the waves but also that the MFD mounting typically imposes a tension on the face to case joint when installed. You don't want the seam to start opening up later on. Moisture inside the case is a sure way to kill these displays.
Tip: If you want to do this without plugging it into the watercraft, see this thread;
Building a test jig for the 8-pin Polaris MFD
Press the Mode button to cycle through the various display modes. Confirm the display is working as expected and that both buttons are working reliably.
If you have to use excessive force on a button or press it several times before it responds, something is not right. Recheck the thin metallic strips on the underside of those ribbon cables. Sometimes they develop surface corrosion or even cracks and flaking. Also visually examine the backs of the button switches. If you see signs of corrosion or evidence of moisture, the switches are probably dying.
It is possible to pry the front bezel face away from the clear plastic panel. Look carefully at the back side of the bezel surround at each end. There is a thin access slot you can use to gently pry the rim slightly outwards and pop the entire face off.
This will allow you to see the fronts of the buttons, but they cannot easily be repaired.
Make note of the following links if your display has an inaccurate voltage reading or the hour counter needs to be reset.
How to Reset the Engine Hour counter on the oval Polaris MFD display
How to reset and calibrate MFD voltage display for ACCURATE voltage readings
Once you are happy with the clarity of the MFD display and the front panel buttons are working properly, it is time to seal it up.
My current method is to use fresh and well mixed five minute epoxy adhesive. Do not use old epoxy that has been opened years ago. It may not cure properly and the joint bond may be weak.
Once well mixed, I use a skinny applicator stick to spread a thin bead of epoxy all the way along the entire rim edge of the back case. It is critical that there be no gaps in the glue bead. You are creating a waterproof seal.
At the same time, do not blob excessive glue around. If you ever need to reopen the case, too much glue can cause problems.
Reconnect the connectors if they were unplugged. Place the small packet of dry Silica Gel desiccant (moisture absorbent) into the back of the MFD case.
Now guide the case into place and gently squeeze it against the face section. I use several tight rubber bands to hold it together while the epoxy hardens. I let it sit overnight or longer to be sure it has fully cured.
Other people use black RTV or marine silicone adhesive rather than epoxy.
Bear in mind that this seal must not only remain waterproof when the watercraft is pounding along the waves but also that the MFD mounting typically imposes a tension on the face to case joint when installed. You don't want the seam to start opening up later on. Moisture inside the case is a sure way to kill these displays.
57.9 MPH GPS @ 6780 RPM)
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