Wiring Diagram For Kill Switch

[aaronb1013]

Newbie here. I just purchased a Virage from a friend. Somehow I never tested the kill switch. Now, whenever I pull the lanyard out, the jet ski stays on. I checked the switch for continuity and it is actually a closed circuit when the jet ski is off and when the clip goes in it opens the circuit. All this happens with a normal switch that is spring loaded so that it is pressed closed until the lanyard clips in (when it comes open). I removed the switch from the spring mechanism and it does indeed still work. Anyways, I decided that if the kill switch won't turn the engine off there must be a break in the circuit somewhere such that is always open. I checked for continuity on both wires (black and black/yelllow) of the switch all the way down to the terminals inside the waterproof junction box. Did I miss something or does it look like I'll need a new controller? Anybody experienced this before? And am I correct that when there is continuity in the kill switch until the clip goes in? Many thanks in advance. Really hoping I didn't just by Virage with electrical issues.

[casey67]

The blk/yel wire runs to the LR module (also refered to as one button start stop module)
The LR inturn controls the blk/yel to the CDI. You should try grounding the blk/yel right at the CDI to see if it turns off.

[K447]

The blk/yel wire runs to the LR module (also refered to as one button start stop module)
The LR inturn controls the blk/yel to the CDI. You should try grounding the blk/yel right at the CDI to see if it turns off.

The single button start/stop button does work through the LR module

The lanyard switch 'ignition kill' wire goes direct to the CDI via the electrical box. Lanyard pull should always kill ignition, regardless of LR module presence or functionality.

[aaronb1013]

Thanks for all the quick replies. I do see that the black/yellow wire is spliced and goes to both the CDI and LR module. This is a 2000 Polaris Virage 700 if that helps. I’m going to put it back together and try grounding yellow/black w the LR module connected! Will let you know what I find.

[aaronb1013]

Once again, thanks. I'm very impressed with this community. I own an old Land Rover (produced by the millions) and somehow there's still fewer owners to respond to my issues on message boards like this.

OK. So I went out there tonight and plugged everything back in and reconnected the battery. As always, the kill switch clip is out but the instrument cluster is all lit up and the bilge pump works. It look like the black/yellow wire (+) originates from the LR module and then splits so one wire goes to the CDI and the other goes to the kill switch. I checked the voltage from the black/yellow wire coming from the LR module and there's nothing. I tried this with the kill switch in both positions and nothing. So I don't think I could even ground it at the CDI. Does that make sense? There's suppose to be 12V coming out of the LR black/yellow wire at all times, right? Bad LR then?

Forgot to mention, the engine is not running during any of this. Which might be why I'm not getting voltage from the LR module.

[K447]

… It look like the black/yellow wire (+) originates from the LR module and then splits so one wire goes to the CDI and the other goes to the kill switch. ...

The CDI provides the sense voltage for the Black/Yellow wires. When the engine is running the CDI imposes a voltage on Black/Yellow and watches for that voltage to be ‘squashed’ by the lanyard switch being pulled and grounding the wire. Grounding the Black/Yellow wire stops spark and the engine stops running.

The LR module can also ground the Black/Yellow wire when the LR module ‘decides’ the engine should be stopped (hopefully when the Handlebar Start/Stop button is pressed). If neither the LR ‘start/stop’ module nor the lanyard switch is grounding the Black/Yellow wire then the CDI is allowed to provide ignition to the engine.

The CDI does have an internal ‘kill latch’ so that even a momentary short to ground on Black/Yellow will fully stop the engine. The latch self-resets after the engine has been stopped for a short while (few seconds). *


* Some Polaris red carburetor engine CDI develop a delayed no-warm-restart problem where the engine will not restart until it has been sitting for several minutes. I have suspicions that the no-warm-restart symptom is related to a malfunction of the engine kill latch circuit inside the CDI module.

The Orange wire Service Bulletin jumper change for the CDI is a factory work-around for the no-warm-restart problem. Not all red carb engines have the problem and the Orange wire change does not help if the CDI is working properly without the change.

The problem does not affect initial cold starts where the engine was already sitting for a long time prior to cranking.

[aaronb1013]

Well, I'm a dummy. I started the engine and had it idling and, sure enough, the voltage was 12V. I pulled the kill switch and it killed the engine. Somehow I thought the kill switch was supposed to keep the engine from cranking. I read a few posts on here and figured out quickly that the MFI has nothing to do with the kill switch or the starter. This is great. Apologies for using up your valuable expertise. I do appreciate the wiring diagram. Now I just have to find a battery switch so my kids don't crank the engine while it is sitting in the garage (I've hidden the lanyard and shut off fuel).

Best,
Aaron

[K447]

You could install a bulky battery cut-off switch. If you do, wire it into the battery negative cable, not the positive side. And mount it robustly so wave impacts and engine vibration cannot loosen the switch or the heavy cable connections.

Or you could wire a much smaller waterproof switch inline with the thin wire to the start solenoid. Isolate the solenoid coil and the engine will not crank. The solenoid 'ground wire' would be the one to have the switch inline with.

Or just unplug the small 'mushroom' connector from the external start solenoid.